Lunch at The Square

So, after nearly two months of exam preparations and tolerating canteen mush, everything came to an end (for now), and I promptly returned to this ever-so-reliable restaurant for a decent lunch.

Amuse bouche: ham jelly, goat's curd, caviar (hidden under the leaf), fresh peas and pea bavarois, fresh mint and mint oil.

A masterful combination of sweet, savoury and spicy flavours to kick-start the palate. The very delicate textures of individual components belied their distinct and intense taste and kept this little pre-starter feeling balanced and fresh. The silkiness of the pea cream and the wobbly lightness of the bottom layer of ham jelly were particular standouts.

Starter: gazpacho with English crayfish, sour cream ice cream, diced peppers, tomato, cucumber & onion, jellied lime, lemon & tomato, and a touch of olive oil & parsley.

More refreshment dished up in a bowl - this generous and sophisticated take on the classic chilled Spanish tomato soup was incredibly satisfying and totally apt for the now-warmer climate. This was so much more than a plain purée-like blend of tomatoes - the crunchy diced vegetables and jellied balls within the soup contributed a most delightful and juicy bite, while the ice cream and crayfish imparted a touch of luxury without detracting from the invigorating nature of this starter. A touch of olive oil and parsley added further fruitiness and aroma. Summery freshness at its best indeed.

Main course: fillet of sea bream on a bed of creamed leeks with lardo di colonnata, courgette purée, razor clams, preserved lemon, pickled artichokes, spring onion and parsley.

This reminded me immediately of my main course at Le Meurice two months ago, with very similar accompaniments of razor clams, lemon and artichokes. I thought that the portion size here was rather disappointing compared to what I've usually had for lunch mains. For the sheer quantity of accompaniments on the plate one would certainly have expected a bigger and thicker slice of fish. Putting aside the negatives, however, this was still very honest and solid cooking, if not quite as mind-blowing as what I'd experienced at Le Meurice. The pan-fried fillet remained tender and moist with a nice crispy skin, and its succulent texture and delicate flavour were well complemented by the luxurious and tasty bed of leeks and lardo on which it sat. The razor clams provided additionally a nice firm bite, while the rest of the accompaniments kept the dish fresh and aromatic on the whole. The only bit I really didn't like was the pickled artichoke; its naturally sweet flavour would have been excellent, but the pickling resulted in a puckering astringency which was quite different from the refreshing citrusy taste of the lemon (and not really needed here, to be honest).

Dessert: fondant of bitter chocolate with milk ice cream, milk purée and peanut-and-chocolate 100's and 1000's (or sprinkles, as it's sometimes also called).

Always a pleasure, this classic warm chocolate dessert had a perfectly gooey centre that gushed out as soon as I cut through the pudding. It was so rich and indulgent that any more might have felt cloying, but I definitely wasn't complaining! To top it off, there was another surprise in the sprinkles - the chocolate balls were actually fizzy and started popping when warm chocolate sauce was poured over the pudding. The bits on the milk purée popped as soon as they entered my mouth and the sensation was just incredibly delightful. It was a shame that the milk purée and ice cream had to take a back seat next to these outstanding chocolate components, but to be sure they were very good too and I couldn't have imagined putting together a better chocolate fondant dessert myself.

Today, I noticed lots of new faces, and the manager Cesar was off I think so the service, though professional as always, felt somewhat impersonal (though that might just be me being picky). At least, the friendly Italian sommelier Andreas recognised me and came over to my table for a chat about his hometown of Venice (which I had recently visited over Easter with family) so that was a pretty nice touch. Will be back sometime!

Weekend lunch at The Square

Back to The Square for a leisurely Saturday lunch...

Amuse-bouche: game consommé topped with chestnut foam and a pancetta wafer.

A very nice way to start the meal considering the horrible weather outside. It was one of those days when it wouldn't hurt to have some warm soup. The dark-coloured consommé (hidden from view) was extremely comforting and rich in flavour, and kick-started the tastebuds very effectively. This was well complemented by an equally lush chestnut foam (almost more mousse-like than foamy in texture) that was sweet with a earthy and smoky edge. To finish, a feather-light and buttery pastry strip with embedded pancetta bits added a crisp bite and a further savoury depth. All in all, a perfect combination of luxurious wintry flavours.

Starter: ravioli of confit red mullet and langoustine claws with new season's sea kale, jellied orange balls and bouillabaisse dressing.

This was a wonderful taster of the sea with delightfully fresh flavours throughout. The contents of the jam-packed ravioli were extremely sweet, with a firm and succulent bite. The delicate nature of the seafood was enhanced by light and crunchy stalks of sea kale, while juicy orange jellied balls highlighted both their freshness and sweetness with a mild acidity. A further touch of flavour was imparted to this refined dish by a very rich and tasty bouillabaisse (Mediterranean fish stock) dressing. Thoroughly enjoyable!

Main course: fillet of sea bass with creamed potato, new season's olive oil and anchovy butter.

This was probably the most awesome slice of fish that I've had in quite a while. This restaurant's kitchen is always spot-on when it comes to handling fish, and this dish was no exception. Despite being very thickly cut, the flesh was incredibly tender and juicy throughout. This was coupled equally amazingly with the crispiest layer of skin that one could imagine, for a pleasant charred flavour that went very well with the mild-tasting flesh. I couldn't even begin to understand what cooking techniques could produce such wondrous results. Every mouthful was a joy; the fish was so good that I almost couldn't bear to finish it.  The accompaniments were no less stellar: a lashing of (melted) anchovy butter with crispy deep fried bits of anchovy scattered nicely across the skin, caramelised onions, and large juicy knobs of mussels provided extraordinary aromas, flavours and textures; the creamed potato was astonishingly smooth and light, and enhanced in both taste and texture by a surrounding ring of fruity olive oil. This dish was both luxurious and wholesome; although there was nothing really fancy about its conception or presentation, the choice of ingredients and their execution were sheer perfection.

Exceptionally, I requested to have both dessert options today for a small supplement, as they both sounded good to me.

Dessert 1: warm poached pineapple with black cardamom ice cream, cardamom foam and spiced granola.

After the remarkable courses that I had just experienced, this felt somewhat underwhelming. First, the positives: there was a pleasant hint of sweet-smelling spice throughout, and the contrast in temperatures between the ice cream and the pineapple was a lovely idea. However, I had my reservations about the odd taste of the pineapple - a deep savoury flavour very similar to mature cheese; I wondered if my tastebuds had been influenced by the black cardamom which has a distinctly smoky aroma, and if so this fruit pairing was probably not the best idea. The presentation of this dessert was also uninspired; there was hardly anything to suggest that this couldn't have been put together in any home kitchen, with products that are readily found in supermarkets. This was actually the extra course that I ordered, and I must say I didn't get lucky with this one.

Dessert 2: millefeuille with roast pear, praline cream, caramel, burnt toffee syrup and vanilla ice cream.

Shortly before this dessert arrived, the manager Cesar came out from the back of the restaurant (which was a surprise because I had been told that weekends are usually his off-days) and we exchanged a few pleasantries; it's always nice to see a familiar face.

My server (I forget his name but he's the Italian guy with an unusually French accent) had hinted that I would like this better, and I could totally see why! A huge contrast to the previous dessert, this was unabashedly indulgent. Within two puff pastry layers sat large juicy chunks of roast pear atop a thick bed of praline cream. The result was an incredibly rich dessert sandwich that could have been too cloying for some people, but I love the taste of hazelnut anyway, and the roasting gave the pear slices a really deep caramelised flavour that went perfectly with the luxurious cream, so I certainly wasn't going to complain! Even the puff pastry layers were excellent - buttery and flaky within, with an unusually sweet and charred (but still pleasant) hard crust (probably glazed with toffee sauce before baking). To accompany the millefeuille, a lovely scoop of vanilla ice cream sat atop lashings of toffee sauce and a sprinkling of hazelnut crumble. This was very good too, but somewhat overshadowed by the brilliant focus of this dessert. By the time I finished, I was really satiated and on a sugar high!

The usual nougat petit fours ended another great meal at this restaurant.

One note about service on this occasion: the front counter staff seemed over eager to give me the bill when I did not call for it, which left a slightly unpleasant aftertaste. The first time this happened was between the two desserts, and my server apologised promptly saying that he had mixed up the table numbers. That didn't bother me at all because genuine mistakes like these do happen. However, the bill was presented for the second time - again unsolicited - almost immediately after my last dessert was finished, and even before petit fours had been served. As I had started late and was one of two or three tables left for the sitting, I couldn't help but feel that they were trying to clear us out as quickly as possible - not very nice indeed - but being a regular customer and knowing that they are usually capable of better service, I was prepared to overlook this instance, and simply paid up (it was getting late anyway), finished the final pieces of nougat, and left. I hope this remains an isolated incident, for it could undo an otherwise excellent dining experience for any customer.

Lunch at The Square

Back to my regular haunt The Square for a quick weekday lunch today. The menu looked very appealing to me, and I thought I'd just give it a go as I will be at home on the other side of the world and unable to visit over the Christmas holiday. And my, it was a suprisingly full lunch service even at 2 pm! It was nice to see Cesar the manager around, though understandably he didn't have much time to chat as he was very busy looking after things. Still, a satisfying and tasty lunch as usual!

Amuse bouche: fresh beetroot with balsamic vinegar mousse and jellied balls, diced red onions, olive oil, bresaola and herbs (chives, radicchio).

This was a most effective stimulant for the tastebuds and set me up for the rest of the meal very well. The perfect balance of sweetness and acidity was achieved between the juicy chunks of beetroot and the rather interesting balsamic vinegar derivatives. A touch of luxury was contributed by the paper-thin slice of bresaola (Italian air-dried salt beef) that was extremely lean, with a velvety texture and a rich flavour with no excessive saltiness, similar to the best ham varieties. The scattering of chives and red onions imparted incredible aromas, while generous lashings of an excellent fruity olive oil around this appetiser provided further lightness and refreshment.

Starter: velouté of smoked mackerel and eel with mussels, oysters, cockles, clams and celery, served with a cornetto of mackerel and eel tartare.

This starter was indescribably tasty - the freshness of the lightly-poached shellfish, enhanced by the smooth creamy texture and robust smoky flavour of the soup, made for an irresistible and comforting dish, especially in this chilly weather. Soft and juicy strips of poached celery provided a touch of refreshment and cleanliness amidst this indulgence. The cornetto was no less excellent; its finely-chopped raw contents were fresh and well-seasoned, with a firm and succulent bite.

Main course: fillet of Cornish cod with a Poilâne crust, turnip tops, Poole prawns and swede (both diced and mashed), parsley garnish.

I have written in previous reviews that this kitchen really knows what to do with fish, and this stellar dish was again definitely the right choice. The cod fillet was perfectly cooked - silky, succulent and melt-in-the-mouth. Its delicate flavour was well complemented by fresh and sweet prawns with a good firm texture, and a very tasty surrounding pool of sauce made of fish stock. The swede accompaniments and turnip greens gave the dish a most satisfying and wholesome touch. Finally, the Poilâne crust was probably the most interesting component of this dish - presumably mimicking a layer of crispy fish skin, this paper-thin slice of the famous French sourdough bread possessed a remarkable depth of flavour (further enhanced by toasting) and lightness in texture. On the whole, this was an extremely solid and enjoyable dish.

Dessert: roast apples with caramel chocolate mousse, Bailey's parfait with a sesame and spiced (cinnamon) crumble, sweetened prunes and prune coulis, applesauce and crab apple jelly.

This was an unashamedly decadent ending to the meal with the most hearty flavours and textures featured on the same plate. Soft, juicy and caramelised chunks of apples were paired with an extremely thick and velvety caramel chocolate mousse, and a rich Bailey's parfait with a crunchy and deliciously spiced coating. The prune and other apple accompaniments provided further sweetness and also made for very pretty plating. I just couldn't wait to sink my teeth into this picture of unadulterated pleasure, never mind that it must have been 500 calories!

As always this was another superb meal here - I look forward to returning next year!

Weekend lunch at The Square (Tasting menu)

This afternoon, I returned to one of my favourite restaurants The Square for a leisurely lunch. Noticing significant changes in the tasting menu since my first visit at the end of last year, I decided to give it another go instead of ordering from the daily set lunch menu (which, as you would have seen from previous reviews, is extremely good value for money - but I wanted to spoil myself a little today!).

First course: autumn minestrone with a slow-cooked quail egg, Montgomery (Cheddar) stock, tarte fine of savoury onions and ceps.

N.B. The Montgomerys in south Somerset, a 70-year old family business currently in its third generation, are the most famous producer of unpasteurised farmhouse Cheddar in the UK.

This was a very pleasant start to the meal. A light and mildly sweet minestrone containing mixed diced vegetables (including swede, celeriac and Brussel sprouts as far as I could tell) was given a surprisingly luxurious edge and savoury depth with the addition of an intense Cheddar-based stock and cheddar shavings. The runny and velvety egg yolk contributed a further richness in overall texture and mouthfeel to the soup. A sprinkling of toasted sourdough breadcrumbs offered a nice crunch, which went very well with the firm and juicy bite of the diced vegetables. This warm and tasty soup was perfectly paired with an extremely aromatic mini confection consisting of thin layers of shaved cep, cep purée and onion chutney on a puff pastry base. A picture of truly understated sumptuousness, perfect for this chilly weather.

Second course: rillette of smoked Cornish mackerel with a vinaigrette of langoustine claws, oysters, sea water jellies, cucumber and caviar. Garnished with ice plant (a refreshing herb with extremely crunchy and succulent leaves) and served with toasted sourdough on the side.

In a small bowl bursting with flavours of the sea, every component was delightfully fresh and clean-tasting (the most important prerequisite for any fish or seafood product), and the combination of sweet (langoustine and cucumber), sour (vinaigrette) and savoury (the rest, but especially the smoked mackerel) flavours was precise and effective. The crisp and juicy bite of the jelly, cucumber, caviar and ice plant accompaniments was the perfect textural complement to the moist and succulent chunks of seafood. On the whole, this refreshing cold dish felt almost like a palate cleanser between the richer warm courses that surrounded it. A welcome relief indeed, considering the length of this pretty substantial tasting menu!

Third course: roasted Isle of Orkney scallop with new season's ceps and white onion fondue.

This dish was simple, well-executed and irresistibly tasty. Lightly seasoned with sea salt and cooked just right, the scallop had a nice firm bite whilst retaining all of its naturally sweet juices, and the roasting gave it a subtly charred edge in flavour that was simply delightful. Coupled with savoury roasting juices and a fragrant cep purée glazing, this was really a morsel from heaven. The white onion accompaniments (in a puréed form with cream and milk, as well as sautéed with bits of shredded cep) were very aromatic but thankfully without a sharp sulphuric pungence that would overpower the main focus, and their flavour was surprisingly sweet and delicate. A really intense yet well-balanced dish.

Fourth course: foie gras ballotine with a topping of Granny Smith apples, served with crab apple glaze and a spiced chutney of plum, raisin and apple. (Not pictured: a side of toasted hazelnut, raisin and fig bread.)

Crab apple: a special variety of small apples with an extremely sour taste if eaten raw. Most apt for use in sweetened preparations such as jams, purées and chutneys due to their high pectin content and intense flavour.

A surprisingly restrained foie gras dish, presumably intended to give the stomach another break and to set it up for the two main courses ahead. No doubt the foie gras itself was lavish - a dense and rather generous portion, with a smooth and creamy mouthfeel due to the retention of vein and fat structures - but the unusually fruity composition of the dish kept it feeling very light on the palate. The rich, musky and slightly bitter foie gras was very well contrasted by its sweet-and-sour fruit accompaniments. The mildly spicy chutney was especially effective in stimulating the palate and enhancing overall flavours, while the fresh apple strips were particularly refreshing with their crunchy and juicy texture. On the other hand, the side of toasted bread, with its deep nutty flavour, was a totally apt complement to the taste of the foie gras.

Fifth course: roasted fillet of turbot with autumn truffle & walnut pesto and a smoked celeriac & bay milk purée, served on a bed of Savoy cabbage and grilled smoked potato slices.

This was, without any doubt, my favourite course of the tasting menu. I have mentioned in previous reviews this restaurant's knack for handling fish, and this course certainly didn't disappoint. This very thick chunk remained firm but moist, with its delicate roasting juices given an nice savoury depth by the addition of fish stock (so my server told me when I commented on how tasty this dish had been). The equally chunky pesto, with its crunchy coarseness and intense nutty taste, enhanced both the succulent texture of the flesh and its naturally light flavour. The smooth and creamy purée, with its sweet and smoky flavour, added a further touch of luxury to an already luscious portion of premium fish. One minor snag though: although I could see bits of truffle shavings within the pesto, I couldn't taste or smell them at all, perhaps overwhelmed in their tiny amount by the surrounding nutty and savoury flavours. Admittedly this is being very picky; the dish had been thoroughly enjoyable even without truffles in the picture.

Sixth course: breast of grouse with pearl barley, strips of pancetta (cured pork belly) and a pancetta roasting jus, on a bed of swede & turnip mashes and Muscat grapes. Served with a croustillant of the leg topped by bacon foam, and celeriac purée on the side.

This was the most substantial course in today's lunch. The breast meat was roasted to a customary medium rare with moist pancetta strips in order to preserve its firm and succulent texture. Needless to say, the pancetta and its roasting juices also contributed an incredible savoury depth to the dish. The breast meat lay on two mounds of mashed swede and turnip, and a scattering of muscat grapes. The turnip mash was particularly memorable; I hadn't quite expected it to be so heavily seasoned, and the resulting taste and texture were exactly like a salted turnip condiment (chye poh) used in breakfast and egg dishes back home in Singapore! The muscat grapes used must have been unripe ones, as they were extremely tiny and astringent; they did serve their purpose though of cutting through the overall intensity of this dish. Similarly, the swede, pearl barley and celeriac purée (now plain, not smoked as in the previous fish course) accompaniments provided a mildly sweet and wholesome balance to this extravagant dish. In the foreground, a crispy croustillant pastry shell contained seasoned minced leg meat that was tender, juicy and just as scrumptious as the main focus - no doubt helped by its rich bacon foam topping. I can totally understand it if some people find this course too heavy and salty, but it suited my personal taste just fine and I enjoyed every bite!

Seventh course: a tasting of Beaufort (on hazelnut, fig and raisin bread) and Stinking Bishop (foam and bavarois, on a bed of pear jelly and diced quince).

Beaufort: a raw cow's milk cheese produced in the French Alps, with a firm and creamy texture and a mildly pungent aroma. It is commonly used to make cheese fondue because it melts easily.

Stinking Bishop: a soft and creamy washed-rind cheese from Gloucestershire. Its distinctive odour is the result of the process of immersion every 4 weeks in perry (a kind of pear cider) made from the local Stinking Bishop pear, while it matures. Amusingly, it was first brought to international attention by the cartoon Wallace & Gromit in 2005, in which it was used to revive Wallace (the human character) from the dead (and why am I not surprised!).

Relaxing slightly after the main courses, this small cheese taster was offered prior to another two rich desserts. Cheese usually comes at a supplement in fine restaurants such as this, so to have it included in the tasting menu at no extra cost is pretty good value, to say the least. I must admit that I'm no cheese connoisseur, and certain aspects of this dish were not to my liking - an acquired taste perhaps? I did find the Stinking Bishop (quite literally) too pungent and strong-flavoured (thankfully balanced by the astringent jelly-and-fruit base). The milder Beaufort cheese on toast was more suited to my palate, and its deep flavour was well matched by the sweet and nutty bread.

Eighth course: milk chocolate bar with salted peanuts, praline and banana ice-cream.

I had requested a substitute for the first dessert of cheesecake, which I had tried when I first did a tasting menu here (see my review from Dec 2011), and this alternative (from the à la carte menu) was arranged for me by the manager on duty. This was pure comfort food - you can't go wrong with a chocolate-and-banana combination. In fact, the chocolate part of this dessert seemed to be an elevated take on Snickers, with layers of sticky praline and crushed salted peanuts within the biscuit base, topped generously by a very rich and velvety milk chocolate ganache. Taken together with the light and smooth banana ice-cream, the result was a truly heavenly (read: sinful!) combination of flavours and textures. Edible pure gold flakes and a sprinkling of sea salt on the chocolate slab imparted a further touch of luxury to this already indulgent dessert.

Ninth course: rice pudding and prune soufflé with Black Velvet ice-cream and a chocolate macaron.

Black Velvet: a beer cocktail made from champagne and Guinness. Created in 1861 by the bartender of the Brooks' Club in London, as a symbol of mourning for the untimely death of Prince Albert.

Putting aside the funereal history of Black Velvet for the moment, I must say that the ice-cream worked really well actually. At the time of dining, this flavour combination was certainly not one that I had expected, but the crispness of champagne and the full-bodied bitterness of stout produced an ice-cream that was both deep in flavour and light in mouthfeel. This, combined with a fruity soufflé with juicy bits of prune and a strong hint of spices (e.g. nutmeg) in the rice pudding mixture, produced a dessert that was very rich in taste yet never quite as overwhelming on the palate and stomach as it all looked/sounded. The accompanying macaron had a nice combination of textures, from the crisp and airy shells to the thick and smooth cream layer, though I found its taste somewhat underwhelming (strangely closer to cocoa butter than cocoa, despite its looks) compared to that of the soufflé. To be sure, it wasn't in the least offensive but I didn't miss it either.

Four more pieces of soft chewy nougat to finish as petit fours, and I was done. I was definitely full, but thankfully not as stuffed as I remember I had been after I did the tasting menu here for the first time. Service was stellar as usual, particularly from the duty manager and a very smiley English server called Andrew (a recent addition to the restaurant staff). I look forward to returning soon!

Farewell lunch at The Square

It is the season when people are finishing their studies and moving out of London, and this afternoon, I took two friends to The Square for a farewell lunch. This was my first visit in quite a few months and the first Michelin-starred restaurant experience for my friends, so we were really looking forward to what they had to offer. We went for the 3-course set lunch, and covered all the options between us.

Amuse-bouche: a mixture of egg whites, spring onions and red onions, served in a lightly curried mayonnaise, with a watercress garnish.

This reminded me of classic potato & egg mayonnaise salad - pleasant if somewhat unspectacular. The curry flavour was present but a tad weak for our taste; fortunately, helped somewhat by the peppery twig of watercress. No potatoes used here, but the mix of hard boiled chunks of egg white with crunchy and aromatic chopped onions, in a creamy sauce, was comforting.

Starter 1: home cured bresoala with artichoke, beetroot and horseradish cream, topped with a rocket and chive garnish.

The bresoala or beef ham, a traditional delicacy of Italy's Lombardy region, and cured in-house in the restaurant's cellar over a few weeks (so we were told), had a very interesting flavour - like most premium hams, it was not overly salty, and had a very rich taste which I can't quite put in words. It was also very lean and tender. Its savoury flavours were well matched by the sweet and juicy chunks of artichoke and beetroot, and the lashings of spicy horseradish cream and peppery rocket leaf garnish gave the palate a refreshing kick.

Starter 2: marinated aubergine with sweet peppers, goat's curd, crushed black olives, deep fried red onion rings and chopped caramelised red onions, basil, and an olive oil and balsamic vinegar dressing.

Ain't no ordinary extra-virgin olive oil...

This was my friend's dish and she was initially concerned that it might not be entirely to her taste because she doesn't take aubergine a lot, but I believe this dish changed her mind about this vegetable. Its naturally creamy texture and sweet taste were most delightful, and extremely well matched with the juicy peppers, and fruity olive oil from Provence in France (an excellent olive oil does wonders for any dish, as restaurant manager Cesar told us). The onions added a nice crunch and appealing aromas, while the rich goat's curd and crushed black olives gave the dish an appealing savoury depth and touch of luxury. I could not imagine a salad more wholesome and delicious than this.

Main 1: glazed short rib and rump of White Park beef, with smoked creamed potato, spinach, caramelised baby carrot and red onion, red wine sauce.

The first thing that struck me about this dish was the tenderness of the meat and that unmistakeable melt-in-the-mouth feeling one gets from cooking sous-vide over extended hours. The creamed potato had an incredibly smooth consistency, and the sauce was a completely apt pairing for the luxurious meat. The portion was also generous and left one feeling extremely satisfied.

Main 2: fillet of sea trout with buttered summer vegetables (cabbage, baby carrots and radishes, peppers, fava beans, white and green asparagus), herb gnocchi and sorrel.

Another excellent main. This nicely pan-seared cut of fish had a light crispy top which I totally love, while the rest of the flesh remained moist and flaked effortlessly. The accompanying vegetables were fresh and sweet, and contained my favourite seasonal asparagus! The surrounding soup tasted quite nice too - sweet and slightly buttery, but I found it a tad too watery. A thicker/creamier texture would have been more appropriate to match the rich flavour of the fish.

Dessert 1: crème fraîche tart with sour cherries and crème fraîche ice cream.

This looks incredibly rich but was actually very refreshing. The English translation of the original French name, 'fresh cream', would be a misnomer: this is actually a type of sour cream with lower viscosity but higher fat content, which is perfect for making desserts that feel indulgent yet very light. It is also not too acidic, and easy on the palate. The tart filling had an amazingly fragile wobbly texture to it beneath the burnt glaze and looked exactly like an excellent crème brûlée, but actually tasted more of lemon curd (I'm pretty sure lemon was in the mix, unless the cream used was of an exceptional variety); on the other hand, the ice-cream felt more like thickened natural yoghurt, true to the taste one expects from a bacterially-soured cream. The preserved cherries were mouth-wateringly large and juicy. On the whole, a most enjoyable dessert.

Dessert 2: gooseberry fool with gooseberry jelly and vanilla panna cotta, with a sprinkling of biscuit crumbs.

A quintessentially English summer dessert, the word 'fool' is derived from the French fouler (to press), for the sourish seasonal fruits (in this case gooseberry) that are mixed into thick sweet cream (imagine a more indulgent version of strawberries and cream). It did look like a lumpy mess but its taste was exceptional. The thick top layer of cream was generously studded with large and juicy gooseberries. In the middle was a thin layer of gooseberry jelly, supported by rich vanilla panna cotta at the bottom, with intense flavours coming from real crushed vanilla pods within the panna cotta. The amount of cream could have been overwhelming but the natural acidity of gooseberry kept the dessert nicely in check.

To finish off the pleasant afternoon, we were offered the usual petit fours of nougat and salted chocolate truffles. We had all enjoyed the food immensely and service as usual was welcoming and friendly (especially from Cesar, and a new Italian waiter with a thick French accent - admittedly he was quite difficult to understand but he did his best!), and my friends were put at ease very quickly. I will be back!

Weekend lunch at The Square

Another impromptu visit to The Square today for a casual lunch ...

Amuse-bouche: chicken consommé jelly topped with butternut purée, cauliflower foam and thyme crumbs.

Very nice combination of various intense flavours - the thin layer of sharp and salty jelly at the bottom was aptly balanced by two thicker layers of sweet purée and foam (both of which had an amazing smooth and creamy consistency), and the thyme topping provided further aromas and a nice crunch.

Starter: risotto nero with Cornish skate and gremolata.

I should clarify that there was no squid ink used in this dish - the rice is naturally black. It is a really healthy food with high protein and fibre content, similar to brown rice, but a lot rarer. It tends to turn purple when cooked, but careful control here has preserved its original jet-black colour. The risotto was rich and creamy with individual grains still preserving a nice form and bite, and the fish was also topped with a black rice cracker which was appealingly light and crispy. The skate (stingray in the Asian context) was extremely fresh, moist and flaked effortlessly. Its light flavour was very nicely enhanced by the gremolata topping (chopped parsley and garlic with olive oil and lemon zest, almost like a vinaigrette). A very satisfying dish with a successful combination of various subtle flavours.

Main course: sauté of John Dory with crushed butternut squash, beurre noisette and pickled walnuts, with a side of garden salad.

The portion was quite underwhelming - the smallest main I've ever had in this restaurant, about the same size as the starter to be honest! But it was really good while it lasted - the fresh fish fillets, sautéed in brown butter, retained their moisture, a nice meaty texture and all their fresh flavours in addition to a slightly charred and crispy skin. The brown butter residue was then deglazed to make a sauce that was extremely rich and savoury. The accompanying butternut squash was sweet, fibrous and appealingly chunky with bits of chanterelle mushroom and chestnut (I think) scattered throughout. A topping of trompettes de la mort gave an earthy dimension to the dish. The accompanying salad (just fresh leaves, no dressing) was a good balance, with notably spicy and nutty flavours from the rocket.

Dessert: blood orange tart with chocolate ice cream.

This was truly excellent. The combination of chocolate and orange is classic and needs no further elaboration, but there is something to be said about the exceptional quality of individual components here. The ice-cream was incredibly smooth and heady, with intense cocoa flavours, and topped with chocolate biscuit crumbs that provided a nice crunchy texture. The blood orange tart was bursting with citrusy goodness and felt extremely light - just like a good crème brûlée, with a wobbly custard-like filling, and a thin burnt glazing on top which was very evenly done. The execution of this dish was simple, yet wonderfully precise.

Overall, it was a pleasant way to spend a Saturday afternoon. The portions felt significantly smaller this time, but for this quality, the set lunch price is still a pretty good deal I think!

First lunch of 2012 at The Square

First good meal of the year - where else but back to The Square! Actually, this had been completely unplanned, but I had some free time today and the lunch menu for the week looked pretty appealing, so I tried getting a table at the last minute and did!

First amuse-bouche: apple and beetroot jelly, with diced fresh beetroot, smoked eel and horseradish foam, topped with chopped toasted almonds.

A refreshing start to the meal, with the subtle sweetness of the beetroot complementing and balancing the savoury, creamy and slightly piquant foam. The almonds effectively enhanced the aromas of the dish and provided an appealing crunch.

Second amuse-bouche: sauté of Scottish langoustine tail with lardo di colonnata, barbecued pork rib with grapefuit and pak choi (Chinese cabbage).

The manager Cesar informed me that this was actually work-in-progress: a newly designed dish soon to appear on the menu, and that they were getting regulars' feedback and suggestions on possible refinements for it. It was a very solid dish with which I could immediately identify, being of Chinese origin - the sweet roasting juices (honey and soy) and pork rib reminded me of a very well-done char siew, completely fatless yet still remaining fork-tender. The langoustine was also very well done, retaining a firm crunch and natural sweetness, and draped over with a lovely velvety film of lardo di colonnata - simply divine when taken together. The whole dish was almost too much of a good thing, thankfully balanced by the astringent grapefruit! If I were to be very picky, I thought that the hint of vinegar in the roasting juices was slightly overpowering (I do dislike the smell of vinegar) and when I told this to Cesar he revealed that the chefs had actually been discussing how much of it to use that morning - so I hope they consider my feedback!

Starter: Salmon and squid ink raviolo on a bed of leeks and bouillabaisse dressing, with a generous sprinkling of red mullet roe.

This was luxurious and immediately eye-catching. The thin and firm layer of pasta concealed a most substantial filling of fresh salmon. The bed on which the raviolo sat was extremely sweet, rich and bursting with flavours of the sea. The dried and salted roe subtly enhanced the savouriness of the whole dish. Excellent throughout.

Main course: fillet of black bream with a risotto of chanterelles (mushrooms) and langoustine claws.

The fish, as usual, was excellent - a large chunk, very fresh and pan-fried with the skin on to give a wonderfully crispy top, whilst the flesh at the bottom remained tender and juicy. The texture of the risotto was excellent - firm and well-defined grains, with a generous scattering of mushroom and langoustine. I did feel, however, that the risotto was rather salty and cheesy on the whole, and threatened to overwhelm the natural flavours of the seafood. For smaller appetites, this dish would most definitely have been too rich. Another minus point: I found a large piece of cartilage (from the langoustine claw) in my risotto - not the first time I've had unwanted bits! (Read my first review of this restaurant when I had the tasting menu.) Personally, I'm not overly fussed about this as long as the food is good, but the kitchen really needs to be more careful with such details, for the sake of its own reputation.

Dessert: blueberry jelly with diced pineapple, mint and variations on coconut - fresh coconut cream, coconut ice-cream, coconut shavings (in the glass) and macaroons with shredded coconut (on the side).

Special mention goes to the accompanying macaroons, which were not even listed as part of the dish, but which I felt were the most outstanding - light, fluffy, served oven-fresh and with the unmistakable fragrance of coconut. As for the contents of the glass, the scoop of ice-cream and the pool of cream surrounding it were extremely rich, velvety, and intense in flavour, balanced appropriately by the tart layer of jelly at the bottom. A very satisfying end to the meal.

The usual petit fours (nougat and chocolate) came after this, but I was so full I had to ask for a takeaway! (The portions are really generous; I'd already chosen what I thought would be the lighter options.)

P.S. I realised after paying for the meal that I had been charged for only 2 courses instead of 3 (i.e. the dessert was on the house) - most likely to compensate for the unwelcome extra in my risotto. Good service recovery - it would've been a difference of only £5, but it's the thought that counts!