Lunch at The Square

Back to my regular haunt The Square for a quick weekday lunch today. The menu looked very appealing to me, and I thought I'd just give it a go as I will be at home on the other side of the world and unable to visit over the Christmas holiday. And my, it was a suprisingly full lunch service even at 2 pm! It was nice to see Cesar the manager around, though understandably he didn't have much time to chat as he was very busy looking after things. Still, a satisfying and tasty lunch as usual!

Amuse bouche: fresh beetroot with balsamic vinegar mousse and jellied balls, diced red onions, olive oil, bresaola and herbs (chives, radicchio).

This was a most effective stimulant for the tastebuds and set me up for the rest of the meal very well. The perfect balance of sweetness and acidity was achieved between the juicy chunks of beetroot and the rather interesting balsamic vinegar derivatives. A touch of luxury was contributed by the paper-thin slice of bresaola (Italian air-dried salt beef) that was extremely lean, with a velvety texture and a rich flavour with no excessive saltiness, similar to the best ham varieties. The scattering of chives and red onions imparted incredible aromas, while generous lashings of an excellent fruity olive oil around this appetiser provided further lightness and refreshment.

Starter: velouté of smoked mackerel and eel with mussels, oysters, cockles, clams and celery, served with a cornetto of mackerel and eel tartare.

This starter was indescribably tasty - the freshness of the lightly-poached shellfish, enhanced by the smooth creamy texture and robust smoky flavour of the soup, made for an irresistible and comforting dish, especially in this chilly weather. Soft and juicy strips of poached celery provided a touch of refreshment and cleanliness amidst this indulgence. The cornetto was no less excellent; its finely-chopped raw contents were fresh and well-seasoned, with a firm and succulent bite.

Main course: fillet of Cornish cod with a Poilâne crust, turnip tops, Poole prawns and swede (both diced and mashed), parsley garnish.

I have written in previous reviews that this kitchen really knows what to do with fish, and this stellar dish was again definitely the right choice. The cod fillet was perfectly cooked - silky, succulent and melt-in-the-mouth. Its delicate flavour was well complemented by fresh and sweet prawns with a good firm texture, and a very tasty surrounding pool of sauce made of fish stock. The swede accompaniments and turnip greens gave the dish a most satisfying and wholesome touch. Finally, the Poilâne crust was probably the most interesting component of this dish - presumably mimicking a layer of crispy fish skin, this paper-thin slice of the famous French sourdough bread possessed a remarkable depth of flavour (further enhanced by toasting) and lightness in texture. On the whole, this was an extremely solid and enjoyable dish.

Dessert: roast apples with caramel chocolate mousse, Bailey's parfait with a sesame and spiced (cinnamon) crumble, sweetened prunes and prune coulis, applesauce and crab apple jelly.

This was an unashamedly decadent ending to the meal with the most hearty flavours and textures featured on the same plate. Soft, juicy and caramelised chunks of apples were paired with an extremely thick and velvety caramel chocolate mousse, and a rich Bailey's parfait with a crunchy and deliciously spiced coating. The prune and other apple accompaniments provided further sweetness and also made for very pretty plating. I just couldn't wait to sink my teeth into this picture of unadulterated pleasure, never mind that it must have been 500 calories!

As always this was another superb meal here - I look forward to returning next year!