Dinner at Paul Bocuse's Le Sud brasserie, Lyon

My recent holiday in France also took me to the city of Lyon, an UNESCO World Heritage City as renowned for its role in ancient Roman history, as it is for its modern reputation as the food capital of the country (not Paris - you'd be surprised!). Lyon is synonymous with casual eating places known as bouchons, where both locals and tourists go to experience a spot of good old-fashioned home-style cooking at extremely reasonable prices. Admittedly, the food is quite heavy (consisting mainly of cream, cheese, thick meat stews, and the ever-popular sausages or saucissons) so after doing our rounds in the more well-known and authentic bouchons we decided that it was time for something lighter on the stomach. We asked our hotel for a recommendation, and were directed to Le Sud near Place Bellecour in the city centre.

Not knowing anything about the place, I looked it up on the Internet before we went to dinner, and realised that it is actually one of few casual brasseries (the others, perhaps not surprisingly, are named Le Nord, L'Ouest, L'Est) opened in Lyon's city centre by the legendary Paul Bocuse, granddaddy of French fine-dining. Before travelling to France, I had toyed with the idea of visiting his Michelin-starred flagship in Pont de Collonges on the outskirts of Lyon, but eventually gave up because both the taxi ride and the meal would have been prohibitively expensive. Now, Le Sud wouldn't be too far off the mark if it carried Bocuse's name, I thought! Off we went to dinner, in heightened anticipation.

As the name of the restaurant suggests, it specialises in Southern French / Mediterranean cuisine - lots of fresh seafood, fruit and vegetables - which was perfect for us after several rather heavy meals at local bouchons.

Upon arrival, we were promptly shown to a table on the verandah. It was nice to sit outside on a cool, balmy evening. My partner decided to order from the prix-fixe menu, while I went à la carte. Prices were marginally more expensive than usual in Lyon, but still within our expectations; in any case good produce never comes cheap.

Starter (set menu): melon et jambon cru ibérique (sliced melon with Iberico ham)

A common summer starter, this was very good indeed. The melon was extremely sweet and juicy while the ham was of very high quality - velvety and full-bodied without the excessive saltiness that comes with more inferior hams. It is very difficult to go wrong with a sweet-savoury combination such as this.

Starter (à la carte): caviar d'aubergines aux parfums du sud (Southern-style aubergine confit)

This was a brilliant cold dish incorporating the best of seasonal Southern produce - a generous mound of sweet, creamed aubergine was surrounded by an aromatic pool of pistou (basil and olive oil sauce), and topped with crunchy pine nuts and sesame seeds, juicy tomatoes and capsicums, and caramelised onions. It was truly fresh, wholesome and satisfying.

Main course (set menu): filet de cabillaud cuit à la plancha (roasted cod fillet on a bed of crushed potato and spinach, olive oil and diced tomato dressing)

The fish was very fresh and well cooked; under the slightly crispy skin, the flesh flaked effortlessly and remained moist and succulent. Its accompaniments were simple but of high quality (especially the olive oil and tomato dressing), and complemented the substantial fillet very well.

Main course (à la carte): panaché de filets de poissons du marché, grillés à la plancha (an assortment of grilled seafood including red mullet, sea bream, prawns and scallops, accompanied by steamed potatoes, vegetables, diced tomato and olive oil dressing)

A much more elaborate version of the cod dish above, this was similarly very fresh and well executed. The scallops were especially sweet and juicy, with a nice spring to the bite. Delightful.

Dessert (à la carte): fraises à la marocaine (Moroccan-style strawberries)

An alternative take on the classic French dessert coupe de fraises (strawberry cup), this was a wonderfully refreshing end to a wholesome meal. Fresh and juicy strawberries with a nice bite and just the right balance of sweetness and acidity were garnished with orange zest, chopped fresh mint leaves, and surrounded by a sweet and aromatic sauce infused with ras el hanout (a North African spice blend). I would find it difficult to imagine a dessert simpler, lighter and more agreeable than this.

Dessert (set menu): baba au rhum tradition (traditional rum baba)

A classic French dessert of rum-soaked sponge, this version came with a generous amount of chantilly cream and fruit toppings, surrounded by a syrupy rum glazing. I must admit to not being a fan of this dessert usually, because it is often too rich and alcoholic for me, but this one was surprisingly balanced; the cream felt agreeably light and non-cloying to the palate, and the rum, while present, was never overpowering. The sponge was moist and fluffy. Very well done indeed.

Some pictures of the restaurant taken after our dinner:

A poster of the great chef

'Food of the sun' -
an apt description of this restaurant's cooking style