Sunday lunch at Ma Cocotte, Les Puces de St. Ouen (Paris)

On this sunny Sunday morning in Paris, I decided to explore something slightly off the beaten track. Having done all the usual touristy stuff over multiple visits to this beautiful city, I followed the recommendation of one of my favourite blogs Messy Nessy Chic (written by an American based in Paris) and did what many Parisians love to do on a Sunday morning when the weather permits - take a leisurely stroll in the flea markets of St. Ouen in the northern tip of central Paris. Situated about a ten-minute walk away from Porte de Clignancourt metro station (line 4), this world's oldest and largest flea market is in fact a complex of several market compounds, each specialising in different types of vintage goods and made up of shops set up along narrow alleyways. In fact, the English term 'flea market' is a direct translation from the French marché aux puces, which all started here in St. Ouen!

In this impressive complex you will not find the usual bric-a-brac or unwanted and worthless castaways; on the contrary, this veritable treasure trove with astonishingly knowledgeable shopkeepers (some of whom have inherited their businesses through generations of family) felt very much like a giant art village to me. I even found shops specialising in Chinese and Japanese art and ceramics, which to my eye were authentic but definitely not cheap! You might well spend a whole day here if you don't want to pay to enter the museums. This place will most certainly dash common stereotypes about flea markets with low quality and/or fake merchandise. The area is well-signposted and maps are available so you can go straight to the market that caters to your needs if you already know what you're looking for.

So what does all this have to do with food? Well, obviously one has to refuel at some point if he is going to stay here for most of the day! As midday approaches, the shopkeepers come out of their shops and sit together round makeshift tables, congenially sharing food and wine taken from their respective homes, oblivious to the envious tourists walking by and peeking at their gourmet offerings.

I wasn't going to go hungry myself, so (again taking the cue from Messy Nessy Chic) I found this gem of a restaurant at the intersection of the Paul Bert and Serpette markets (specialising in vintage 20th-century furniture and decorative arts). Ma Cocotte, the latest brainchild of none other than legendary French designer Philippe Starck (how apt for this area!), has already gained a steady following of local foodies, despite having opened just last October. No doubt inspired by a long-held desire to have his own gourmet 'table' in Les Puces alongside the shopkeepers, this restaurant offers a no-frills organic menu that is mostly typically French, with some notable exceptions such as 'Le classic cheeseburger' and 'Fish and chips de Portobello' (!). There is no prix fixe menu as one might expect at lunchtime; items are ordered and charged separately, and prices are comparable to famous bistros such as Les Deux Magots in more central areas of Paris. Not too surprising perhaps, when considering who its founder is, as well as the increasing gentrification of Les Puces (things here are generally not dirt-cheap, that's for sure!).

Converted from a furniture warehouse.

Just some of the cutesy names that the
French have for their lovers. Surprised
that they actually have a valet service
at such a casual place!

Covered ground-floor terrace.

Long queues at lunchtime - no reservations taken on
Sunday, first come first served.

Sheer crowd!

Usual country bread to go with the food or to mop up
remaining bits of soups and sauces - nothing spectacular.

I decided to go for a proper 3-course meal, and given this hot day I couldn't have asked for a better starter: gaspacho with diced cucumbers, olive oil and croutons.

Simple and divine - this classic chilled tomato soup had a deep sweetness and crisp freshness, complemented by juicy and crunchy chunks of raw cucumber, and a drizzle of high-quality fruity-tasting olive oil. A small bowl of croutons was provided on the side for additional bite. This was so good I had to mop up every single drop of the soup with the table bread. It wasn't only an effective counter against today's heat, but also a great way to cleanse and stimulate the palate for the more sumptuous main course ahead.

Next was spit-roasted free-range chicken from Challans, served with a side of creamed potato.

This was pure comfort food. The chicken was incredibly moist and succulent with a nicely browned crispy skin. The presentation was as austere as you could imagine, with just a clove of roasted garlic and a small glass of roasting juices on the same plate. But really, nothing else would have been needed to highlight the chicken's already mesmerising roasted aroma and deep flavour. Did I forget to mention the creamed potato on the side? This was just heavenly - absolutely smooth, with a rich mouthfeel and a strong buttery aftertaste, an indulgence in its own right indeed. Again, the plate and glass bottle were wiped completely clean!

Sweet endings: pavlova, which came in a glass bottle identical to that used for the creamed potato in my main course.

This meringue-based dessert was originally invented in New Zealand in the 1920s, and named after the famous Russian ballet dancer Anna Pavlova, during one of her tours to the region. One recalls a dessert with a similar background, Peach Melba, invented in 1893 by legendary French chef Auguste Escoffier at the Savoy Hotel in London, in honour of the Australian soprano Dame Nellie Melba.

The version of Pavlova served here seemed like a heart attack in a bottle with all that cream, but it was so good! The cream was very fresh and surprisingly light so that one didn't feel the least saturated. The generous amount of blackberries used (both fresh and in compote) contributed a sweet and wholesome touch that definitely helped to dispel any pangs of guilt for having had so much cream. The meringues - only 3 pieces on top - felt somewhat like an afterthought instead of being the focus here, and tasted only of sugar despite what its colour might suggest. Surprisingly, they were the one forgettable component in this dessert, although they did provide a pleasant crunch amidst all the soft textures. This otherwise excellent dessert was finished with a sprinkling of finely-chopped pistachios for a deeper touch of flavour.

Happily satiated, I was ready to continue exploring the flea markets, but not before taking a few more pictures of this restaurant. It is remarkably well integrated with its surroundings and furnished with colourful pieces in contemporary style that Starck and his wife have personally sourced from the dealers around here; fortunately they are not some poncey celebrity establishment with no respect for the local environment. I could certainly have used one of those big and comfortable armchairs for the rest of the afternoon if I weren't trying to make the most of my time in this area! The upper floor in particular seemed like a great place to chill.

Going up to the first floor.

Upper terrace - great for when the sun's just right;
today was unexpectedly scorching though!

Open and uncovered kitchen on the ground floor near the entrance.
Interesting to watch, and those mouth-watering aromas - oh my god!

It had been a nice little respite with great food in a convivial atmosphere. The service, like the food, was familiar and fuss-free, though perhaps not as attentive as it should have been due to the sheer number of customers. Trying to wave down a server was occasionally difficult, and I had to wait quite a while for my water glass to be refilled and for my bill to be presented. Nevertheless, the overall experience had been well within my expectations, and I will be returning whenever I am in Les Puces again.