Lunch at Fischers Fritz, Berlin

I am currently on a short holiday in Berlin to catch my favourite pianist in action once again. Hardly my first visit to the city, but on previous occasions the thought of exploring Berlin from a foodie perspective had never crossed my mind, and understandably so; gastronomy and indulgence are hardly the qualities that one would associate with this utilitarian German capital that still offers incredible value for money (by Western European standards) in all aspects of everyday living. Nevertheless, in my quest for new experiences within a pretty familiar city, I was glad that I finally embarked on a little restaurant tour, and excited by what it might bring.

First stop for me and my partner this afternoon: Fischers Fritz in the Regent Hotel. This visit had been completely unplanned; in the morning we had decided to be in the area for the day and so I asked our hotel's receptionist to try her luck at booking a table there for a nice and leisurely lunch. Surprisingly, the restaurant wasn't busy at all so last-minute reservations weren't a problem, but we were also concerned that we might not be allowed in because of our casual dress. The receptionist checked with the restaurant again; no problems there either - great! And so off we went.

The posh Regent Hotel is located in a central part of town very close to the Gendarmenmarkt and the opera houses. Beyond its seemingly nondescript façade lie some of the most luxurious interiors, and there is even a Meissen Tea Room, where afternoon tea is served on crockery made exclusively from exquisite Meissen porcelain (hence the tea room's name).

Meissen Tea Room

Fischers Fritz on the ground floor is one of Berlin's only four 2-starred restaurants, and the style of cuisine here is modern French. The kitchen is helmed by Christian Lohse, German by birth but completely French in training (including a stint at Guy Savoy in Paris). The luxurious and elegant furnishings in soft pastel colours are extremely French as well, and I felt as if I had been teleported to one of the Parisian institutions the moment I went past the doors. We were the first diners to arrive. The initial reception was cordial but not overwhelming, which quickly put us at ease in the midst of a near-empty restaurant. Suprisingly, the restaurant would stay mostly empty for the rest of the afternoon, which is slightly worrying for a highly-rated place like this, but I suppose the locals would be at work on a weekday, and most tourists aren't thinking of fine-dining in Berlin.

One of only five French lobster press
machines in the world, apparently!

Lunch here is a very reasonable affair at 47 euros for 3 courses including all taxes, which is comparable to set lunches in 2-starred establishments in London. There is an impressive variety of choice - between 5 starters, 5 mains and 4 desserts, to be precise. Any reservations that we might have had about the quality of the food (due to the apparent emptiness of the restaurant) were quickly dispelled by the lovely succession of dishes that followed.

First up, a plate of onion crackers with anise for nibbling. These were very light, aromatic and tasty, and were gone before we knew it!

Amuse-bouche: Icelandic trout, purple carrot cream and carrot chip, olive remoulade.

The trout was very fresh and succulent, and its rich taste and texture were well complemented by the creamy carrot and remoulade. The sweet-savoury balance between carrots and olives was precisely achieved, while the single chip provided a lovely crisp bite contrasting effectively with the softer textures of the rest of this appetiser. I should also mention that purple carrots are no ordinary vegetables - their colour indicates a high level of antioxidants in addition to the health benefits of normal carrots. A wholesome and very promising way to begin indeed.

Bread and butter were served next, and a good variety came nestled within an elegantly folded napkin in a silver serving dish. I don't remember what they all were, but two types stood out - the 'herbal tongues' (protruding flat sticks made of milk and water, and sprinkled on the surface with fresh herbs) and the brown bread with sunflower seeds. The first were incredibly moreish - crisp and light and yet full of flavour - while the latter was satisfyingly substantial in texture and taste, with a delightful bite and nutty edge from the generous amount of sunflower seeds within. We finished these in no time and even asked for a refill to enjoy with the rest of our meal!

Starter 1: Rockefeller oysters gratinated with spinach and Mornay sauce, served on a bed of salt (for presentation purposes only).

This dish was proof that the best things in life are sometimes the simplest. These large and fresh oysters were lightly cooked to preserve their plump texture and all of their juices, then covered in a rich and creamy cheese sauce, with spinach for a healthy touch. The natural umami of the oysters was most effectively enhanced by their savoury topping. For an oyster lover this was utter bliss, and I could have gone on eating them all afternoon!

Starter 2: crispy baked onsen egg with girolles, cauliflower purée and lemon salt.

Like a Scotch egg, but far more sophisticated and challenging in execution, I can only imagine what precision it must have required to achieve all the right textures in the same egg - crispy crust, firm white and a completely runny yolk. The accompaniments worked together very effectively to produce a harmonious balance of sweet, sour, salty and earthy flavours. I was immediately attracted to the heavenly aroma of the girolles as soon as my server placed the dish on the table. The lemon salt was an inspired background touch, helping to enhance the overall taste of the dish whilst maintaining a delightful freshness with its mild acidity. This seemingly modest dish displayed quite an impressive technique indeed.

Main course 1: Icelandic sea trout with girolles, crispy fish skin, fennel, fresh peas and pea emulsion.

Another simple and lovely dish like the oysters. We were initially concerned about how raw the trout looked (it was probably seared for two seconds or something!) but one bite each and we were won over by the sheer freshness of the fish. Like a good carpaccio or sashimi, the fish's naturally rich oily taste and succulent texture were fully preserved, and its minimal cooking at least ensured that it still flaked nicely and effortlessly when cut with a normal knife. The pea emulsion was equally wholesome and flavourful, with a good sweet-savoury balance that enhanced the fish very nicely. Bits of fennel and girolle mushrooms chipped in with truly delightful aromas, while morsels of crispy fish skin and crunchy fresh peas contributed a pleasant bite and essential contrasts in texture to the rest of the dish. On the whole, this dish was straightforward, effective and enjoyable.

Main course 2: cheek of Duroc pork in 'Szegedin' style, on a base of potato, paprika and sauerkraut, with braised pork jus.

Probably the most authentically German of today's dishes, this was a clear reference to the sausages for which the country is known worldwide. The choice of this premium American breed was an excellent one, and using the cheek (the most scarce and tender part of the pig) ensured a juicy melt-in-the-mouth experience, with wonderful aromas of various herbs and spices in every bite. The particularly extensive use of paprika (in the sauerkraut, sauce, and as a garnish) reminded me of the cuisine of nearby Hungary. This sweet and mildly piquant spice was a lovely touch which both complemented and enhanced the rich taste of the pork. The bed of sauerkraut, an essential accompaniment to any sausage dish, was pleasantly moist, well-proportioned to the meat, and had just the right acidity to balance this indulgent dish. Very substantial and satisfying indeed.

Pre-dessert: dark chocolate cream, pumpkin foam, chopped pistachios, candied peanut.

This morsel was such a sinful delight. Wonderfully rich and nutty, it set the stage for the elaborate desserts to follow. I loved the variety of textures even within this small dish, from the smooth and luxurious chocolate cream, to the light and airy pumpkin foam, and the crunchy bite of the nuts.

Dessert 1: buttermilk blancmange with warm essence of greengage plum, lychee and green tea ice cream.

Many seemingly disparate elements worked wonderfully together in this dessert. The blancmange was very light, wobbly and smooth, like a panna cotta but less dense, and with an acidic tinge from buttermilk. The surrounding pool of greengage plum juice, with a few slithers of fresh greengage, was incredibly sweet and refreshing, true to this species' reputation as the finest dessert plum cultivated in Europe. The bits of candied sesame and almond imparted a good bite and character amidst the delicacy of it all. On the side, a single scoop of lychee and green tea ice cream seemed like a strange combination of flavours, but was extremely effective - very light in texture (really a sorbet instead of an ice cream), with just the right balance of sweetness and astringency, and lovely tea aromas lingering subtly on the palate after each mouthful. Like the main part with the blancmange and plums, this was another breath of fresh air. Considering that this dessert came as part of a 'budget' set menu, its complexity and sophistication were quite impressive indeed.

Dessert 2: citrus jelly with fresh citrus fruit, macadamia granola and cream, bittersweet artichoke ice cream and candied artichoke chips. Served with fresh white chocolate mousse.

A richer dessert than the first, and another cornucopia of ingredients in two separate dishes. The smooth and buttery white chocolate mousse with a topping of finely crushed white chocolate, though one-dimensional, was an effective foil for the more varied components in the other glass. I thought the introduction of a somewhat savoury element in the artichoke to the conventional fruit-and-nut combination brilliant, as the vegetable's slight bitterness really helped to accentuate the characters of the other components. Of course, the novelty of having artichokes in the forms of ice cream and chips raised the fun factor as well. I also loved the chunky macadamia granola and its thick cream for their deep nutty taste and wonderful crunch. I must say the pastry chef here is really quite something!

I was hoping to meet Christian Lohse himself after the meal but he happened to be away at a food conference in Copenhagen, so just too bad! Next time hopefully, whenever that might be.

Grand yet homely main dining room - loved it.

It had been a very enjoyable afternoon with great food and the servers' (almost) undivided attention. I wish to commend two particular staff Mario and Katja, who were all at once warm, friendly and yet unobstrusive, which made our first visit very relaxed and comfortable. I would love to be back for more elaborate dishes at dinner if I ever have the chance to do so!