Lunch at The Ledbury

It is Angela's second last day in London, and today I took her to one of my favourite restaurants in town for a last fine meal. Not exactly easy to score a table here, but I persuaded the reservations lady over the phone to give us a late lunch sitting, and we got lucky!

The first thing I noticed was the number of new faces since my last visit barely four months ago. Most prominently, Stephen the manager and face of The Ledbury since its opening, had returned to Melbourne in the meantime, and in his place (and very much to my surprise!) was Darren, a former manager at Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley. We recognised each other immediately and exchanged a couple of pleasantries. It would be silly, I suppose, to reject a personal job offer from the chef patron of the 13th best restaurant in the world! Stephen will be missed though; he was a truly warm and amicable character who always made his customers feel at home. By contrast the service environment at Marcus Wareing is rather more formal, and from our initial reception I did get the impression that the new manager was still finding his way within the current organisational culture. Not any worse to be sure, just a different feel.

Anyway, back to the food - we went for the set lunch as we weren't really looking to splurge today.

Canapé: turbot roe cream and apple jelly on squid ink biscuit.

Very tasty and pleasant way to start. The light textures of each component were a lovely contrast to their intensity of flavour. The sweet-savoury combination between the smooth turbot roe cream and delicate apple jelly was a clear winner, with finger lime garnish for a touch of refreshment. The squid ink biscuit base is a typical component in this restaurant's canapés and one of my favourites, with its feather-light crispness and mild briny taste that went very well with the predominantly seafood-based toppings.

Both starters to follow were Ledbury classics that I've reviewed previously so I won't say too much about them. (They were the only choices from the set menu and we were unable to substitute any of them with new items from the à la carte menu without paying full price, which is reasonable I suppose).

Starter 1: Hampshire buffalo milk curd with deep fried onions, Saint-Nectaire shavings, wild mushrooms and a broth of grilled onions. Served with summer truffle shavings, truffled mayonnaise, chives and Mornay spread on toast.

My choice, and still as good as ever. Loved the delicate silky texture and mild taste of the buffalo curd - almost like tofu! - which formed a pleasant, unobstrusive base for the stronger toppings above. The full-on aromas of onions and wild mushrooms were intoxicating, and the choice of Saint-Nectaire on both the curd (shavings) and the toast (Mornay spread) was surely no accident, with its earthy and nutty flavour. The truffle toppings on the toast were simply lovely (how could they not be?!).

Starter 2: ceviche of hand dived scallops with Tokyo turnips, seaweed oil and frozen horseradish.

A refreshing Peruvian/Japanese-inspired raw cold starter for Angela; firm and juicy scallops were paired with crunchy fresh turnip slices and apple jelly caviar for further textures and a delicate touch of sweetness. A topping of horseradish snow (playing a similar role to wasabi) enhanced the subtle flavours of this dish with an invigorating spicy kick to the palate, and the dish was finished with a lovely umami from the surrounding ring of seaweed oil. Incredibly light, crisp and tasty.

Main course 1: roasted Cornish turbot on a bed of diced asparagus, pear and morels, with turbot roe cream, boiled fennel and fennel purée, morel jus, shellfish emulsion and elderflower garnish.

What a satisfying dish combining some of my favourite (and surprisingly premium!) ingredients in a somewhat unusual but effective manner. I had a very similar dish as part of my first tasting menu experience here last April. At first glance this might seem too sweet for a main course, with the asparagus, pear and elderflower coming together all at once, but fortunately the kitchen had achieved a precise balance between the ingredients, and the end result was both complex and incredibly tasty. The sweetness and juiciness of the aforementioned components enhanced the natural moisture and delicate taste of the fish in the background, whilst allowing the latter's substantial and meaty texture to be matched simultaneously by equally intense sauces of morels and shellfish. The fennel accompaniments provided a nice crunch and fresh anise-like aromas to the already intoxicating fragrance of morels. For a main course within a 'budget' set menu, one really couldn't ask for more.

Main course 2: haunch and belly of Middle White pork with apricots, girolles and fresh almonds.

(For more information on the exclusive Middle White breed of domestic pigs native to the UK, click here. Middle Whites are currently listed as an endangered breed by the Rare Breeds Survival Trust so pork production from them is strictly controlled.)

The exceptionally well-marbled pork had a truly rich flavour and succulent texture that are largely absent from most commercial breeds today (which are mainly for the bacon market after a post-war government directive). It's great that specialist pork breeders are now on the rebound after having people recognise the excellent quality of their pork, though the significantly higher prices mean that they are still not as popular as they should be.

Firm and sweet slices of caramelised apricot complemented the leaner pieces of haunch perfectly. On the other end of the plate was a pork belly medallion with a surprise black pudding centre; this was indescribably tasty and melt-in-the-mouth - truly the height of sinful indulgence! Enthralling earthy aromas from a generous amount of girolles (both on top of the pork belly, on the 'dividing line' and in puréed form) permeated and enhanced this luxurious dish. The pieces of crackling were feather-light and perfectly crisp. Fresh almonds, much more rarely encountered than their crunchy toasted counterparts, had a very interesting gelatinous texture that resembled hard jelly. Their gentle bittersweet taste also helped somewhat to temper the sheer intensity of the belly half of this dish. Needless to say, the overall execution was absolutely flawless.

Dessert: Alphonso mango with citrus curd, mandarin granita, lemon verbena ice cream, burnt meringue and dash of olive oil. Served with a side of warm kaffir lime beignets.

We both decided to have the same dessert as the only other option of 'selection of sorbets' seemed pretty commonplace to us. What a delightful way to finish! The mango was incredibly sweet and juicy, and the predominantly citrus-based accompaniments left our palates completely clean and refreshed. The dash of olive oil, with its fruity and mildly bitter flavour, was a truly inspired final touch. The warm beignets on the side, pleasingly contrasted in temperature, had a lovely crusty surface and the fluffiest texture within, and their subtle citrus flavour was the perfect companion to the main dish.

The usual petit fours were served soon afterwards. I was slightly disappointed that there were no extras this time (such as an amuse-bouche and/or another dessert to share), as has always been the case with my previous visits. Might it be too much, as a good repeating customer, to expect more than the bare minimum even when on a 'budget' set menu? Nonetheless, the restaurant did deliver what it was supposed to, and to ask for anything else would be to risk looking awkward and impolite.

One thing that did brighten my day very much though - towards the end of the meal when things were much less busy in the restaurant, my favourite server Laurens came over to chat, despite not actually being responsible for our section. His characteristic friendliness and charm, despite the long and demanding hours of the job, are what people in the service industry should aspire towards. I will be asking specifically to sit in his section on my subsequent visits, I think!

Best ramen in London at Tonkotsu

Close friends all know that I'm a huge fan of Japanese food, but I usually shy away from having it in Western countries because unlike Chinese/Cantonese food which is largely authentic (with the exception of dishes such as 'Singapore Noodles', 'Chow Mein' and 'Chop Suey' in the UK) due to its much longer existence and larger following in this part of the world, Japanese food is relatively new and misunderstood. In fact, the Japanese Government has introduced for some years a stamp of 'approval' for overseas restaurants (particularly those in the West) as an advisory measure to preserve the authenticity of Japanese food and to educate foreign palates, similar to what the French Academy does to defend the purity of the French language.

Tonkotsu has no such badge of honour, but glowing reviews of its ramen amidst a burgeoning trend of specialist ramen restaurants in London prompted me to take the leap of faith earlier this year. I wasn't disappointed, and this little outlet in Soho has since become my go-to place whenever I need to satisfy a craving for this rich and tasty Japanese noodle dish. This post will summarise the best of what this restaurant has to offer, including typical starters and side dishes that one might also expect to find in a ramen shop in Japan.

Incredible aromas of various noodle broths waft
through the air as one enters the restaurant.

Pictures taken from shortly after opening for lunch - the space
does fill up very quickly and queueing may be necessary.

You may choose either a table or counter seat
(right by the vats of broths). The latter offers a
more authentic experience and an opportunity
to observe the cooks at work , but I personally
prefer to be away from the heat and grease.

A typical menu with ramen offerings and a few side dishes.

I should mention that none of the staff or cooks appear to be Japanese, which would normally be a huge red flag for any Japanese restaurant - there is a real sense of national pride in every Japanese person which translates into an obsession with quality and authenticity in everything that they do, especially when dealing with foreigners. Thankfully, for Tonkotsu this hasn't been an issue during all my visits so far; the service is always very friendly and polite, and the food is consistently excellent, perhaps due to good training by the British-born (half?) Japanese owner, who himself had spent some time in Japan learning to make the noodles from scratch for optimal texture and flavour. The ingredients used in Tonkotsu might be of British origin (too expensive otherwise to import everything from Japan), but the end product does come close enough to the real thing. The water for the broths - the whole point of a ramen dish - has even been specially treated to soften it and improve its taste; the importance of this procedure cannot be underestimated when one considers the awful quality of London's tap water!

On to the food - these are the dishes I have ordered repeatedly on various visits:

Tonkotsu ramen 豚骨ラーメン

This is the restaurant's signature noodle dish and raison d'être. Tonkotsu (豚骨), referring to the broth, literally means 'pork bones' -  the broth's milky appearance is the result of hours of boiling pork bones to create a concentrated stock. The broth is incredibly tasty and has a lovely rich mouthfeel. The whole point of ramen is its broth, and on this count alone the version served here trumps most of their competitors in this city. My beef with most of them is how bland and 'healthy' their broths taste - good ramen is supposed to be indulgent! - and London's water, left untreated, doesn't help either.

Toppings include thin succulent slices of roasted pork belly (the Japanese equivalent of char siew) with the right balance of fat and lean meat, half a seasoned egg with a creamy runny centre and a delightful overall umami, sweet, earthy and crunchy strips of preserved bamboo shoots known as menma, and freshly chopped spring onion. Drizzles of deep-fried garlic oil impart wonderful aromas that mask the characteristic smell of pork (which can be rather overwhelming for the uninitiated), while the thin and smooth noodles with a pleasant al dente bite are perfect for slurping - though you might not want to do it as loudly as would be socially acceptable (and even encouraged) in Japan!

Soho ramen

This is Tonkotsu's original contribution to the ramen repertoire, and a tribute to the locale in which this restaurant was founded. This will appeal to more Westernised palates and the truly health-conscious, who want to enjoy a good bowl of noodles without sacrificing flavour. To be sure, this isn't authentic ramen but it is still of very high quality, taken on its own merits. This dish features a clear and largely greaseless broth made from a mixture of pork and chicken stock, as well as unusual additions of pak choi and a good succulent chunk of smoked haddock topped with lumpfish roe, for further savoury depth.

Spinach and sesame salad

A lovely and wholesome starter to every meal here, this features very simply fresh spinach leaves and bean sprouts dressed in a nutty and aromatic sesame sauce. You can't go wrong with a combination of crisp vegetables and rich velvety dressing.

Gyoza 餃子

Pan-fried dumplings are no stranger to Chinese and Japanese cuisine. At Tonkotsu, one has the choice of either pork, prawn, or shiitake mushroom & bamboo shoot (for vegetarians) filling. I usually just go for the traditional version (pork) which invariably comes to the table piping hot, with a crisp outer skin containing a tasty and juicy filling. It is even better with a touch of vinegared sauce ponzu (provided at each table), which has just the right balance of saltiness and acidity to cut through the grease and rich flavour of each piece.

Deep-fried chicken 鶏の唐揚げ

Fried chicken, every man's comfort food! This is not mass-producing KFC though; the chicken here is marinated in soy sauce, ginger and garlic before deep-frying, which results in an incredible flavour and aroma with a pleasant touch of spiciness. The meat is succulent and the layer of skin is perfectly crispy, which makes this side dish utterly irresistible. Tip: have this with lots of the chunky chilli oil specially provided at this restaurant, with generous bits of dried shrimp and dried chillies in the mix (amongst other things), for an even more piquant and indulgent experience. Goes very well with an ice-cold beer as well!

Deep-fried soft shell crab

This is a relatively new addition to the menu here, but a familiar side dish in eateries back home. As the crab's name suggests, it can be eaten whole, shell and all. The crispiness of the battered shell, and the sweetness and juiciness of the meat within, make for a truly satisfying experience like the fried chicken side dish above.

A must for all fans of Japanese ramen, or Japanese people resident overseas and missing the taste of home!

First visit and lunch at Pétrus

An old friend Angela from university days has just arrived in London for a short visit, and knowing the avid foodie in me, had asked to try a couple of nice restaurants together. On her first afternoon here today, I decided to take her to Pétrus, one of many restaurants in the capital owned by Gordon Ramsay.

This was a first visit for both of us. Having already been to the flagship establishment along Royal Hospital Road a few times myself, I hadn't seen the need to come here. I figured however that this would be a safe choice, as Pétrus has maintained its top position on Tripadvisor for as long as I can remember, even over the 3-starred RGR (though this could well be a question of affordability and/or availability). Another Ramsay protégé Sean Burbridge heads the kitchen here, and the set lunch is a very reasonably-priced affair with a multitude of choices for each course, in line with other Michelin-starred establishments in this city.

Pétrus is located in a nice little corner of the extremely posh Belgravia neighbourhood, just down the road from Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley. Wine lovers will know that this is also the name of a famous French red wine, and an impressive floor-to-ceiling wine cellar appropriately forms the centrepiece of the main dining room.

Waiting lounge

The initial reception was professional enough but with a few minor lapses: Angela didn't get a bag hook or a small stool for her handbag, which we noticed was given to all other ladies in the room. When we eventually asked for it, our server informed us that they had run out of stools (?!). Also Angela wasn't feeling too well actually so I asked our server to recommend a nice concoction to soothe her throat (a tea or non-alcoholic cocktail), but the server appeared really puzzled by my request, so we just settled for tap water in the end. My request for a glass of wine to accompany my main course was also forgotten, as the sommelier removed both wine glasses from the table. So all in all not a perfect first impression, but also nothing that particularly disrupted our positive mood today.

Amuse-bouche: watercress mousse and salmon tartar on toast with potato salad (hidden).

The salmon was very fresh and moist, and its characteristically deep taste was enhanced by the spicy and smooth watercress mousse. A wafer-thin slice of toast with finely-diced potato salad underneath contributed a pleasant bite and an apt weight. On the whole, a fine little dish whose delicate textures packed a surprisingly good punch of flavours to kick-start the palate.

Starter 1: asparagus velouté with confit duck, soft boiled duck egg and morels.

This was my choice and a truly wonderful way to start. The velouté was incredibly smooth and sweet. The soft-boiled egg had a perfect runny yolk that imparted a luxurious creaminess to each spoonful, topped off by the fresh juicy crunch of poached asparagus tips. The generous bed of duck and morels were the perfect savoury complement to this lovely soup, featuring a tantalising combination of deep and earthy flavours & aromas, and succulent and moist textures. Every mouthful of this starter was a real delight.

Starter 2: tartar of Casterbridge beef on toasted brioche, with a soft-boiled quail's egg, crispy sweetbreads, shaved foie gras and foie gras cream, capers, gherkins and shallot rings.

Angela's choice. Fresh, tender and succulent beef mince was spread on a light and crispy brioche like a chunky paté, and adorned with yet more lavish accompaniments. As with my soup, the runny and creamy egg yolk enhanced the texture of the beef tartar very nicely, while the foie gras and sweetbread accompaniments, with their rich textures and intense musky flavours, were also a perfect fit for the beef. Shallot rings provided further aroma, while capers and gherkins tempered the power of it all with their characteristic tartness. All in all, an opulent yet extremely well-balanced dish.

Main course 1: saddle of rabbit stuffed with foie gras and black pudding, wild mushrooms with fresh peas and pea purée, broad beans, oregano and parnsip garnish, mint oil and rabbit jus.

Not surprisingly, this was a pretty substantial dish with some magnificently rich textures and flavours from the foie gras and black pudding stuffing. The rabbit jus also had a very deep and intense taste, though it was a tad too salty for my liking (and disproportionately generous to the amount of food on the plate, I thought). Thankfully the rabbit itself was extremely tender and succulent, with a lovely delicate flavour. The legumes and herbs also kept things reasonably light in delivering a pleasant crunch and a refreshing spiciness. I should finally mention the sprinkling of wild mushrooms which made a delightfully subtle point with their powerful earthy taste and aroma, and were a totally apt match for the sumptuously-stuffed rabbit.

Main course 2: pan-roasted cod fillet on a bed of Puy lentils, with variations on cauliflower (poached/grilled/puréed/foamed), mussels and a lightly curried velouté.

Again, my first impression was that the fish was swimming in this large pool of sauce (sorry, couldn't help the pun) but otherwise it was a truly excellent dish - unfussy, precise and tasty. The cod was perfectly cooked, with a smooth, moist and flaky flesh, a nicely browned crispy skin and a touch of sea salt. The mussels were agreeably firm and juicy. The cauliflower's sweetness was a wonderful companion to the light flavours of the seafood, while the curried velouté, excessiveness notwithstanding, delivered a delicious kick without upsetting the delicate overall balance. I slightly preferred this dish over the one I'd originally chosen above.

Palate cleanser: passion fruit mousse cornetto with white chocolate shavings and popping candy.

A charming transition into desserts after all that savoury feasting. The sourish passion fruit mousse was incredibly light and refreshing, and the popping candy at the bottom of the cornetto (surprise!) stimulated our palates in the most unexpected and fascinating manner imaginable. The brilliant tingling sensation on our tongues lingered on even after we'd finished and we were relishing every moment of it.

Dessert 1: apple and caramel parfait, with compressed apple, 'cinnamon' (flavoured pastry sticks), 'star anise' (dark chocolate), mini toffee apples, applesauce and cider foam.

A highly creative and beautiful apple dessert with all the usual trappings presented in a fancy manner. This was just about as much as anyone could do to an apple, I think. I was particularly fascinated by the parfait, which had three distinct layers - first a sweet-sour crust of green apple and white chocolate, then a main body of the creamiest and most decadent caramel ice cream, and finally right in the centre, a refreshing and full-bodied iced Calvados filling that gave the tastebuds a really nice jolt to finish. I can't really imagine how this was made - must have required some pretty amazing equipment and/or precision in timing and execution. Anyway as they say the proof of the pudding is in the eating, and this was clearly a success. The accompaniments were somewhat more commonplace and generally apt; the only bits I didn't quite get were the star anise-shaped dark chocolate, which puzzlingly didn't have any taste of anise (unlike the cinnamon-flavoured sticks), and the compressed apple, which I thought somewhat superfluous in execution - surely a fresh slice or none at all would work just as well? Not much point in compressing and concentrating the flavour of such a small slice anyway since apple is everywhere on the plate in some form. (But this is a posh restaurant after all, I suppose!)

Dessert 2: star anise crème brûlée, caramelised pear, pear compote and licorice reduction.

A classic French dessert given a spicy herbal twist, this was very solidly made and somewhat unusually presented like a cheesecake instead of in a ramekin. The crème brûlée had a really rich custard-like texture, complete with a crispy burnt sugar top layer and biscuit base. It also had a lovely deep vanilla flavour (with evidence of real crushed vanilla pods) tinged with the warm, sweet and mildly spicy taste of star anise. The latter was very aptly paired with a licorice reduction that had a similarly refreshing bittersweetness about it. The pear accompaniments had a very nice juicy bite and the caramelised slice in particular had an unusually deep and concentrated sweetness that was a great match for the lush herbal flavours of the crème brûlée. This was on the whole a very interesting and effective combination of flavours.

With the main meal finished, we decided to get some tea/coffee and chocolate at a supplement and received a whole array of chocolate squares of various intensities and cocoa types in a nice little wooden drawer, a dish full of chocolate covered almonds, and the signature Ramsay petit fours of strawberry & vanilla ice cream coated in white chocolate (which I've already had on my own visits to the flagship RGR). Not bad at all for a mere £5 extra per person!

The Sencha was pretty good, by the way!

A very blissful Angela
just before we left the restaurant.

In summary, it had been a lovely afternoon catching up with an old friend over a nice and slow lunch. The service was generally warm and professional and the cooking, though not exactly what I would call mind-blowing, was very solid indeed. We were both sufficiently impressed by this 'basic' lunch menu, and I certainly hope to return myself for the full tasting menu, to experience the full capabilities of the kitchen team.

Lunch at The Square

So, after nearly two months of exam preparations and tolerating canteen mush, everything came to an end (for now), and I promptly returned to this ever-so-reliable restaurant for a decent lunch.

Amuse bouche: ham jelly, goat's curd, caviar (hidden under the leaf), fresh peas and pea bavarois, fresh mint and mint oil.

A masterful combination of sweet, savoury and spicy flavours to kick-start the palate. The very delicate textures of individual components belied their distinct and intense taste and kept this little pre-starter feeling balanced and fresh. The silkiness of the pea cream and the wobbly lightness of the bottom layer of ham jelly were particular standouts.

Starter: gazpacho with English crayfish, sour cream ice cream, diced peppers, tomato, cucumber & onion, jellied lime, lemon & tomato, and a touch of olive oil & parsley.

More refreshment dished up in a bowl - this generous and sophisticated take on the classic chilled Spanish tomato soup was incredibly satisfying and totally apt for the now-warmer climate. This was so much more than a plain purée-like blend of tomatoes - the crunchy diced vegetables and jellied balls within the soup contributed a most delightful and juicy bite, while the ice cream and crayfish imparted a touch of luxury without detracting from the invigorating nature of this starter. A touch of olive oil and parsley added further fruitiness and aroma. Summery freshness at its best indeed.

Main course: fillet of sea bream on a bed of creamed leeks with lardo di colonnata, courgette purée, razor clams, preserved lemon, pickled artichokes, spring onion and parsley.

This reminded me immediately of my main course at Le Meurice two months ago, with very similar accompaniments of razor clams, lemon and artichokes. I thought that the portion size here was rather disappointing compared to what I've usually had for lunch mains. For the sheer quantity of accompaniments on the plate one would certainly have expected a bigger and thicker slice of fish. Putting aside the negatives, however, this was still very honest and solid cooking, if not quite as mind-blowing as what I'd experienced at Le Meurice. The pan-fried fillet remained tender and moist with a nice crispy skin, and its succulent texture and delicate flavour were well complemented by the luxurious and tasty bed of leeks and lardo on which it sat. The razor clams provided additionally a nice firm bite, while the rest of the accompaniments kept the dish fresh and aromatic on the whole. The only bit I really didn't like was the pickled artichoke; its naturally sweet flavour would have been excellent, but the pickling resulted in a puckering astringency which was quite different from the refreshing citrusy taste of the lemon (and not really needed here, to be honest).

Dessert: fondant of bitter chocolate with milk ice cream, milk purée and peanut-and-chocolate 100's and 1000's (or sprinkles, as it's sometimes also called).

Always a pleasure, this classic warm chocolate dessert had a perfectly gooey centre that gushed out as soon as I cut through the pudding. It was so rich and indulgent that any more might have felt cloying, but I definitely wasn't complaining! To top it off, there was another surprise in the sprinkles - the chocolate balls were actually fizzy and started popping when warm chocolate sauce was poured over the pudding. The bits on the milk purée popped as soon as they entered my mouth and the sensation was just incredibly delightful. It was a shame that the milk purée and ice cream had to take a back seat next to these outstanding chocolate components, but to be sure they were very good too and I couldn't have imagined putting together a better chocolate fondant dessert myself.

Today, I noticed lots of new faces, and the manager Cesar was off I think so the service, though professional as always, felt somewhat impersonal (though that might just be me being picky). At least, the friendly Italian sommelier Andreas recognised me and came over to my table for a chat about his hometown of Venice (which I had recently visited over Easter with family) so that was a pretty nice touch. Will be back sometime!