Best ramen in London at Tonkotsu

Close friends all know that I'm a huge fan of Japanese food, but I usually shy away from having it in Western countries because unlike Chinese/Cantonese food which is largely authentic (with the exception of dishes such as 'Singapore Noodles', 'Chow Mein' and 'Chop Suey' in the UK) due to its much longer existence and larger following in this part of the world, Japanese food is relatively new and misunderstood. In fact, the Japanese Government has introduced for some years a stamp of 'approval' for overseas restaurants (particularly those in the West) as an advisory measure to preserve the authenticity of Japanese food and to educate foreign palates, similar to what the French Academy does to defend the purity of the French language.

Tonkotsu has no such badge of honour, but glowing reviews of its ramen amidst a burgeoning trend of specialist ramen restaurants in London prompted me to take the leap of faith earlier this year. I wasn't disappointed, and this little outlet in Soho has since become my go-to place whenever I need to satisfy a craving for this rich and tasty Japanese noodle dish. This post will summarise the best of what this restaurant has to offer, including typical starters and side dishes that one might also expect to find in a ramen shop in Japan.

Incredible aromas of various noodle broths waft
through the air as one enters the restaurant.

Pictures taken from shortly after opening for lunch - the space
does fill up very quickly and queueing may be necessary.

You may choose either a table or counter seat
(right by the vats of broths). The latter offers a
more authentic experience and an opportunity
to observe the cooks at work , but I personally
prefer to be away from the heat and grease.

A typical menu with ramen offerings and a few side dishes.

I should mention that none of the staff or cooks appear to be Japanese, which would normally be a huge red flag for any Japanese restaurant - there is a real sense of national pride in every Japanese person which translates into an obsession with quality and authenticity in everything that they do, especially when dealing with foreigners. Thankfully, for Tonkotsu this hasn't been an issue during all my visits so far; the service is always very friendly and polite, and the food is consistently excellent, perhaps due to good training by the British-born (half?) Japanese owner, who himself had spent some time in Japan learning to make the noodles from scratch for optimal texture and flavour. The ingredients used in Tonkotsu might be of British origin (too expensive otherwise to import everything from Japan), but the end product does come close enough to the real thing. The water for the broths - the whole point of a ramen dish - has even been specially treated to soften it and improve its taste; the importance of this procedure cannot be underestimated when one considers the awful quality of London's tap water!

On to the food - these are the dishes I have ordered repeatedly on various visits:

Tonkotsu ramen 豚骨ラーメン

This is the restaurant's signature noodle dish and raison d'être. Tonkotsu (豚骨), referring to the broth, literally means 'pork bones' -  the broth's milky appearance is the result of hours of boiling pork bones to create a concentrated stock. The broth is incredibly tasty and has a lovely rich mouthfeel. The whole point of ramen is its broth, and on this count alone the version served here trumps most of their competitors in this city. My beef with most of them is how bland and 'healthy' their broths taste - good ramen is supposed to be indulgent! - and London's water, left untreated, doesn't help either.

Toppings include thin succulent slices of roasted pork belly (the Japanese equivalent of char siew) with the right balance of fat and lean meat, half a seasoned egg with a creamy runny centre and a delightful overall umami, sweet, earthy and crunchy strips of preserved bamboo shoots known as menma, and freshly chopped spring onion. Drizzles of deep-fried garlic oil impart wonderful aromas that mask the characteristic smell of pork (which can be rather overwhelming for the uninitiated), while the thin and smooth noodles with a pleasant al dente bite are perfect for slurping - though you might not want to do it as loudly as would be socially acceptable (and even encouraged) in Japan!

Soho ramen

This is Tonkotsu's original contribution to the ramen repertoire, and a tribute to the locale in which this restaurant was founded. This will appeal to more Westernised palates and the truly health-conscious, who want to enjoy a good bowl of noodles without sacrificing flavour. To be sure, this isn't authentic ramen but it is still of very high quality, taken on its own merits. This dish features a clear and largely greaseless broth made from a mixture of pork and chicken stock, as well as unusual additions of pak choi and a good succulent chunk of smoked haddock topped with lumpfish roe, for further savoury depth.

Spinach and sesame salad

A lovely and wholesome starter to every meal here, this features very simply fresh spinach leaves and bean sprouts dressed in a nutty and aromatic sesame sauce. You can't go wrong with a combination of crisp vegetables and rich velvety dressing.

Gyoza 餃子

Pan-fried dumplings are no stranger to Chinese and Japanese cuisine. At Tonkotsu, one has the choice of either pork, prawn, or shiitake mushroom & bamboo shoot (for vegetarians) filling. I usually just go for the traditional version (pork) which invariably comes to the table piping hot, with a crisp outer skin containing a tasty and juicy filling. It is even better with a touch of vinegared sauce ponzu (provided at each table), which has just the right balance of saltiness and acidity to cut through the grease and rich flavour of each piece.

Deep-fried chicken 鶏の唐揚げ

Fried chicken, every man's comfort food! This is not mass-producing KFC though; the chicken here is marinated in soy sauce, ginger and garlic before deep-frying, which results in an incredible flavour and aroma with a pleasant touch of spiciness. The meat is succulent and the layer of skin is perfectly crispy, which makes this side dish utterly irresistible. Tip: have this with lots of the chunky chilli oil specially provided at this restaurant, with generous bits of dried shrimp and dried chillies in the mix (amongst other things), for an even more piquant and indulgent experience. Goes very well with an ice-cold beer as well!

Deep-fried soft shell crab

This is a relatively new addition to the menu here, but a familiar side dish in eateries back home. As the crab's name suggests, it can be eaten whole, shell and all. The crispiness of the battered shell, and the sweetness and juiciness of the meat within, make for a truly satisfying experience like the fried chicken side dish above.

A must for all fans of Japanese ramen, or Japanese people resident overseas and missing the taste of home!