Lunch at Lung King Heen (龍景軒), Hong Kong

Today, we made a day trip from Macau into Hong Kong to meet an old friend for dinner, as well as to spoil ourselves over lunch at my favourite Cantonese restaurant. Lung King Heen, situated in Four Seasons Hotel by the IFC Mall, is the world's only Cantonese restaurant to hold the maximum three Michelin stars. I had visited with my mum for the first time in mid-2011, and we were so impressed with the food and service that we told ourselves that we must go back whenever we are in Hong Kong.

The restaurant was understandably fully booked, but a member of the service team, Leo, whom I had befriended back in 2011 managed to squeeze us in for a late lunch at 2 pm. The subsequent email exchanges with his colleague in Reservations about food and seating requirements were all very professional and warm. Despite not being able to guarantee us a window seat as initially requested, the restaurant promptly allocated one with a gorgeous view of Victoria Harbour once an earlier party left. Perhaps not surprisingly, the restaurant was quite empty by that time, and we had the (almost) undivided attention of the service team.

Arriving for lunch and very excited!

Lobby of the Four Seasons Hotel HK

Outside the restaurant with a prominent water feature
for fengshui purposes.

Gorgeous view of Victoria Harbour from our table.

LKH serves a dim sum menu and a standard à la carte menu at lunchtimes; tasting and seasonal menus are only available at dinner. For tighter budgets an Executive Lunch is available at HKD$460 for 8 courses, which is an extremely good deal for a restaurant of this rank.

We decided to go for a selection of items from both menus, and were very warmly assisted by two servers, Lisa and her colleague (forgot to get his name). Sensing our enthusiasm they offered to serve us half-portions of some dishes so that we could try more items without becoming uncomfortably full, and also detailed the order of service. I noticed that Leo had been assigned to serve the other side of the restaurant today, but upon noticing us he came over to say hello, and offered desserts on the house after the main part of our meal - the only restaurant to do this for us during our brief stay in the region. It is probably safe to conclude that such meticulous attention to detail and a genuine desire to please the customer are unparalleled amongst Cantonese restaurants in the world.

From the dim sum menu (all Chef's Recommendations):

Steamed lobster and scallop dumpling 龍太子蒸餃 - HKD$40 per piece

This was an impressive way to start the meal - light yet luxurious and tasty. A huge, piping hot dumpling packed tightly with chunks of lobster, a whole scallop and topped by a whole shrimp was served to each of us in its own small bamboo basket. The freshness of the seafood was evident from their delicate sweet flavour with minimal seasoning, and their springy and succulent texture that unleashed a delightful explosion of juices with each bite. The form of this dumpling was no less striking and enticing; it was an exquisite work of art in its own right.

Steamed roast duck dumplings with taro in X.O. chilli sauce X.O. 醬香芋火鴨粉果 - HKD$58 per serving

A nice contrast to the previous dumpling, this was much heavier in texture and taste, and each piece packed a pretty substantial punch. Within each translucent dumpling lay a mixture of shredded roast duck, chunky taro mash and herbs (such as coriander) that had a rich, sweet & gamey flavour and a thick, creamy & succulent texture. A dash of X.O. chilli sauce (which you can see from the orange-yellow patches emanating from within the dumplings) further stimulated the tastebuds with its pleasantly spicy umami.

Baked whole abalone puff with diced chicken 原隻鮑魚雞粒酥 - HKD$50 per piece

Identical in form to the one we had at Zi Yat Heen just three days before (these two restaurants are after all part of the same hotel chain), this was even more remarkable than the previous experience. Just as in the former restaurant, each delicate, aromatic and tasty puff pastry base was filled with a mound of succulent minced chicken and topped luxuriously with a whole abalone. A thick and savoury abalone-based sauce poured over each puff gave them a really rich and deep flavour. So you ask, what really was the difference between the two- and three-starred puffs? For me it was in the treatment of the abalone that was so discreet on the surface, yet produced some truly extraordinary results in terms of texture. We all know how this shellfish becomes very rubbery and unpalatable if not cooked properly; in that respect the ones at ZYH had already been very good, though still quite a mouthful to chew and swallow whole. Here at LKH, each abalone was sliced obliquely on top (not completely through so that they still retained their shape) into three sections, making it so much easier for the customer to chew, and for the delicious sauce to blend in with each abalone. This has to be tried to be believed; never have I had abalone which seemed so tender and juicy.

From the à la carte menu (all Chef's Recommendations except for the last vegetable dish):

Barbecued pork with honey 蜜汁燒叉燒 - HKD$230 per serving

It seemed almost counter-intuitive to order a dish of char siew in a fine restaurant like this; after all, char siew is available at any roast eatery in Hong Kong for a fraction of this price. However, do not be fooled by its seemingly humble and unremarkable appearance; this plate of char siew was THE dish that left both mum and I speechless during our first visit two years ago, and we definitely wanted to have it again. Then as now, the marbling was perfect, and despite being very thickly cut, the meat remained incredibly tender, succulent and melt-in-the-mouth, with a rich smoky flavour enhanced by the roasting juices, and a tinge of sweetness from the honey glazing. As with all apparently simple and classic dishes, this was a true test of the kitchen's capability and attention to fundamental details, which it passed with flying colours. I would even go as far as to say that this was the best char siew that I've had anywhere in the world, and that I would return to this restaurant just for this dish.

Crispy eel with honey and pomelo 柚子蜜汁燒鱔 - HKD$220 per serving

Another lovely starter, the eel was fried to perfection - crispy on the outside, yet very moist and velvety within. The flesh was a tad lean for my taste, but to be fair to the restaurant, winter is not actually the best season for this fish - it's when they hibernate and only then start accumulating fat for a real quality summer catch. Still, the kitchen did its best! The sauce of honey and pomelo with bits of pomelo zest was a delightful companion to the eel; its sweetness enhanced the fresh and full-bodied flavour of the flesh, while a pleasant citrusy acidity mitigated any potential greasiness from the cooking and the flesh itself, keeping the dish elegantly light and balanced on the whole.

Moving on to mains:

Steamed star garoupa fillets with ginger and spring onions in a bamboo basket 薑蔥籠仔蒸星斑柳 - HKD$300 per person

Served appropriately with rice at this point - 
the soy sauce went really well with it as well!

Those of you who have noticed the pricing per person will be asking by now: why is it so expensive for two small slices of fish?! There are very good reasons for this: the elusive star spotted garoupa (so named because of white spots throughout the skin which resemble sparkling stars) lives at depths of at least 100 metres where pollution is minimal or non-existent (a most privileged condition in this day and age), and takes a few decades to mature (much longer than other garoupa varieties, and smaller too). Low in fat and high in protein, it is also very easily digestible, nutritious and highly regarded by the Chinese for its role in enhancing brain and sight functions. It is currently listed as a protected species by the Chinese government due to its rarity, with strict limits on fishing so as to ensure its long-term sustainability. As a food fish in Chinese culture it is the most highly prized amongst all garoupa varieties (and one might argue, amongst all fishes).

This was the other dish that impressed mum and I enough during our first visit for us to want to order it again despite its exorbitant price. Obviously too little to share, the three of us had one portion of two small fillets each, and tried not to think of how much poorer we just made ourselves. The fish certainly didn't disappoint - its snow-white flesh was completely smooth, with a delicate taste and a firm and substantial texture (similar to turbot). Its bright red skin with an evenly thin layer of fat underneath was further evidence of its top quality. With such premium fish the best way to cook it is really not to do too much, and let its quality speak for itself. Simply steaming with a light soy sauce and topping with fresh ginger and spring onions was definitely the right thing to do - enhancing the subtle flavour of the fish while maintaining a certain freshness and lightness with the mild spiciness and aroma of the garnishes. I loved every bit of the fish while it lasted but could certainly have done with a bigger portion - oh well...

Wok-fried prawns with duck liver and almonds 鴨肝杏片炒蝦球 - HKD$200 for a half-portion (as suggested by our server)

An unusual combination of ingredients which worked surprisingly well. The prawns were very fresh and had this firm but incredibly juicy bite, and the wok-frying process with a clear and thick seasoning sauce imparted a remarkably deep umami to the prawns without masking their delicate nature. In Chinese culinary terms, this is known as the elusive 'wok hei' 鑊氣, produced by cooking in a seasoned wok over an open high flame whilst tossing and stirring quickly; when well-controlled, this procedure leads to the perfect balance of caramelisation and charring, with wonderful aromas to match, that can never be replicated by using an electric stove or Western utensils. The rich flavour and fragrance of the prawns were certainly well matched by cubes of creamy and musky duck foie gras. A generous scattering of mange tout and shaved almonds further contributed a pleasant crunch and mildly sweet & nutty flavours to this tasty and uplifting dish. It could have been a case of too many cooks spoiling the broth as each ingredient had a very unique character, but a masterful wok-frying technique brought them together really effectively. This was a truly enjoyable dish and a good portion too, considering that it had been halved.

Crispy pork ribs with preserved mandarin peel 陳皮香酥骨 - HKD$100 for a half-portion (as suggested by our server)

My first impression of this dish when it was served was not entirely positive, to be honest; the meat looked suspiciously dry, and its sparse presentation (in contrast to the previous dish) with just a smattering of deep-fried seaweed for garnishing didn't really help. My goodness, how wrong I was! Underneath the crispy layers lay a meat that was extremely tender and succulent with just the right amount of fat, and each bite-sized chunk was perfumed (but not overwhelmingly so) with the unmistakable flavour of preserved mandarin peel, which I love. Compared to the chicken with mandarin peel dish we had at The Eight just the evening before, this was undoubtedly more convincing. The intense flavour of mature peel (no doubt enhanced by deep-frying) supported the richness of the pork very well, even as its inherently citrusy nature acted as an effective balance for this main component. The seaweed garnish completed this dish with a most satisfying umami. Despite being entirely deep-fried, this dish did not once feel greasy or cloying. It was simple, focused and authentic.

Stewed assorted seafood with egg white 芙蓉海鮮粒 - HKD$200 per person (but we ordered only one portion on the advice of our server)

By now we should have been saturated by all the good stuff, and yet this little basket of seafood delights cooked very simply with egg white and a mild seasoning still didn't fail to impress. The chunky mixture of lobster, scallop, crab and prawn was all fresh and sweet, with a firm and juicy texture. Their delicate egg white coating contributed a pleasant gelatinous bite and enhanced the succulence of the seafood due to its thickening effect, without any risk of interfering with their subtle natural flavours. Healthful bits of fresh asparagus tips and wolfberries (goji berries) completed this luxurious seafood mix with an appealing crunch and a further tinge of sweetness. On the whole, this dish was wonderfully light, wholesome and tasty, with remarkably refined textures.

Pumpkin stuffed with sautéed vegetables, mushrooms and fungus 金瓜鼎湖上素 - HKD$180 per serving

Presented to us at the table before being
taken away to be carved up.

That's a lot of mushrooms and fungi stuffed in the pumpkin!

Nothing could have prepared us for the sheer enormity of this dish; we had been expecting something light (it's vegetarian and relatively cheap after all) to wind down before desserts and we were stunned to have a huge whole pumpkin presented to us. When it was carved up to reveal its contents the first thought to cross our minds was that we'd never be able to finish this - it could have fed a party of 8!

This was probably as opulent and attractive as a vegetarian dish could ever get. A mountain of assorted premium mushrooms and other fungi, cooked in a thick savoury broth, sat in the midst of a very prettily carved-up steamed pumpkin, accompanied by a good amount of broccoli and pumpkin seeds for a further dose of health-giving properties. The pumpkin seeds stood out with their robust nutty flavour, which went very well with the rich earthy flavours of the fungi assortment. This was heaven for mushroom lovers. A slight herbal edge from the broth enhanced the overall sense of wholesomeness in this dish, and the sweet and creamy slices of pumpkin were simply gratifying in this chilly weather. We enjoyed as much of them as our stomachs could take, but ultimately had to leave behind a few slices as the massive amount of fibre on the plate was beginning to make us bloat. We had no way of finishing everything no matter how good it was for us.

A whole array of complimentary traditional desserts and petit fours to share followed, wrapping up the meal on a lovely sweet note. We were already very full, but who could resist these? Thankfully, the portions were just right so that our stomachs weren't completely overwhelmed.

In the bowls, from front to back:

Sweetened potato soup with osmanthus and ginger 桂花薑汁甜薯 - this unusual dark purple clear soup (most likely made from Japanese sweet potatoes which are that colour) was surprisingly light and refreshing, with none of the cloying starchiness that one might have expected to get from this root vegetable. An osmanthus infusion gave this soup a very pleasant sweet-smelling aroma, while the addition of ginger juice enhanced its warming properties with a crisp spiciness - very apt for the seasonal weather indeed.

Chilled mango and sago cream with pomelo 香芒楊枝甘露 - the chilled dessert featured on all Cantonese restaurant menus, this version was wonderfully velvety in texture without being too cloying in taste. Chunks of fresh mango were found in equal measure with a generous scattering of pomelo pulp for the perfect balance of sweetness and acidity. To finish, there was a surprise at the bottom of the bowl, which I believe has not been replicated by any other restaurants (I wonder why!) - a layer of the smoothest and fruitiest mango pudding that I've ever had, which elevated this ubiquitous dessert beyond all competition, and sent us straight to cloud nine.

Sweetened almond cream with egg white 生磨杏汁撞蛋白 - this warm dessert had a lovely light and silky consistency, punctuated by gelatinous bits of egg white for extra bite. I should mention that the description 'almond' is somewhat of a misnomer; typically in Chinese desserts, ground apricot kernels (南杏 and 北杏) with a very similar taste to almond are used. These kernels are widely sold as a health food in the West and purported to have immune system-boosting and even cancer-fighting properties (though the latter has been widely disputed). Anyway, their robust bittersweet flavour was fully drawn upon, and I liked how the cream was not overly sweetened at the expense of the kernels' authentic taste.

Last but not least: petit fours including osmanthus jelly and custard puffs. The jellies were refreshing, aromatic and not overly sweetened (unlike many inferior examples from lesser kitchens), with a good amount of wolfberries scattered within them for an additional juicy bite. By contrast, the custard puffs had a very buttery and feather-light pastry layer concealing the most indulgent and smooth filling. Both confectioneries were excellent in their unique ways.

I should mention before leaving the food that the Lung Ching tea we had today throughout the meal was superb - its mellow and sweet taste and aroma lasted well beyond multiple infusions, which is always an indication of high quality.

We were the second last table to leave at around 4 pm, yet the staff never betrayed any impatience and were constantly attentive to minor details (such as refilling our teacups) right up to the point of our departure. We were also greeted and thanked by servers who crossed paths with us on our way out. We felt very relaxed and well taken care of.

Some final pictures of the restaurant as we were leaving:

Of all the fine restaurants we visited in the region over the past few days, I felt that this was the only one to fully deserve its rating. The service team was alert and proactive. Our servers were very helpful with food choices, and there was no pressure from them to order expensive dishes - only whatever suited our budget and appetite. In fact, unlike all the other restaurants we visited, the staff here will actually stop and advise you if they think you're over-ordering, or offer to halve the portions if you are keen to sample more dishes - definitely more work for the kitchen, but I'm very sure customers would appreciate these efforts to meet their demands. For us, the complimentary desserts were also a delightful gesture. I'm not sure if we got the special treatment as returning customers, or if the restaurant does this by default (hardly surprising in a fine-dining establishment, though one can never take such things for granted), but it is always nice to know that our business is appreciated.

The food was faultless throughout with some real masterpieces - always fresh, well-balanced and tasty, in a style far more elegant and sophisticated than that of stereotypically greasy and over-seasoned examples from lesser kitchens. This is how the finest Cantonese cuisine should be, and LKH truly sets the standards to which all chefs can aspire.