Gourmand tasting menu at Rasoi by Vineet Bhatia

Late last year, a fantastic offer came up on the Groupon UK website: 50% off the Gourmand tasting menu at Rasoi, one of few Michelin-starred Indian restaurants in the UK, run by husband-and-wife team Vineet and Rashima Bhatia. Not knowing very much about the subtleties of Indian food besides the curries I've had at more casual places, I was naturally keen to experience what the best of Indian cuisine could offer, and bought a couple of Groupons in anticipation of my family's arrival this morning. We went to Rasoi in the evening for a somewhat different culinary experience. The restaurant is quite close to Sloane Square tube station in the posh Chelsea neighbourhood; not too difficult to locate at all.

The discreet façade of Rasoi at the end of Lincoln St.

Intricate woodcarvings of Indian deities
adorn the sides of the entrance hallway.

Very small but cosy place.

As one would expect in an Indian restaurant, we were offered the customary pappadums (tapioca crisps) to start, with mango chutney (sweet and slightly spicy) and a green sauce made of parsley, coriander, watercress and mint (very fragrant and refreshing) to dip them in. On the side, there were also some water chestnut fritters, which were delicious - crispy on the outside, and moist and crunchy inside.

First course: sambhar soup (a South Indian vegetable broth based on tamarind, pigeon peas and red lentils), idli chaat (steamed South Indian rice cakes dressed in savoury North Indian spices). This was a substantial and full-flavoured start to the meal, with spicy and subtly sweet soup paired with a good portion of rice cakes marinated in a tangy-salty sauce. The generous use of coriander gave a real aromatic depth to the dish. This was surely a dish to cleanse and excite the palette for the courses ahead.

Second course (vegetarian): baked flaky asparagus-carrot parcel, Achari pumpkin upma and herb chutney.

This was very satisfying, like a giant samosa, with a thin and crispy pastry layer concealing a most substantial filling of sweet and crunchy shredded asparagus, carrots and other herbs. The upma (a South Indian semolina paste) was subtly sweet and salty, whilst the pumpkin-flavoured purée was somewhat sour and spicy, presumably to balance the overall richness of the dish. Very strong flavours which somehow managed to work together.

Second course (non-vegetarian): Gilafi lamb seekh, lamb Shammi kebab, Achari pumpkin upma and herb chutney.

This was really fragrant, well-seasoned and delicious. Two versions of North Indian-style kebab are on this plate: seekh, which is minced meat with spices grilled on skewers in a tandoor (a traditional clay oven), often served with mint sauce or chutney (as is the case here); and shammi, also minced meat but with an additional paste of lentils, onion, coriander and green chillies added, then kneaded in a disc-like shape and fried. The generous use of herbs not only ensured an incredible aroma, but also provided a refreshing and essential balance to the rich and potentially overwhelming taste of lamb.

Third course: wild mushroom and truffle oil laced khichdi (a North Indian concoction of creamed rice and lentils), tomato 'makhni' (a Punjabi term meaning mixture of tomatoes, cream, butter and yogurt) ice cream. 

This was a truly excellent and comforting dish. The earthy flavours and aromas of mushrooms were fully present and intoxicating, and the mound of rice was delightfully sticky and creamy. The texture of the ice-cream was excellent - smooth, velvety and slightly chewy, just like a good gelato. Its mild acidity also complemented and balanced the richness of the rice very well, and the contrast in temperatures between the ice cream and the warm rice was delightful. My only complaint would be that this dish was on a whole a tad salty, but certainly not to an intolerable extent.

Fourth course: grilled gunpowder (spicy roasted lentil powder that accompany various South Indian dishes) crusted sea bass, curry leaf potatoes, beetroot moilee sauce (a thick sauce of coconut milk, turmeric, curry leaves, mustard seeds and onion) and coconut chutney.

This was one of my favourite courses of the meal - the sea bass was fresh, moist, and coated with a nice fragrant top of lentils and sesame. The strong presence of coconut added a touch of richness and aromatic depth to this dish, and complemented the natural sweetness of the fish very well. Pure comfort food for lovers of fish and coconut - never imagined them to work so well together!

Fifth course (palate cleanser): melon and black pepper sorbet.

This was relatively disappointing considering all the excellent dishes that had preceded it. The main letdown was the texture and temperature - served way too cold and hard, and with remnants of ice crystals within (i.e. not as smooth as it should be). The flavour combination was very novel and well-intentioned (something fruity to cleanse the palate and also mildly spicy to prepare for the next course), but somewhat watered down as well - more sugar than melon, methinks.

Sixth course: Smoke cloud Punjabi herb chicken tikka, aubergine caviar, Tadka dal sauce (a South Indian lentil stew with spices) and 'Salli' potatoes (deep fried potato straws).

Dramatic presentation

Once the smoke had cleared... voilà!

Thankfully, the disappointment did not continue and we were next presented our next excellent dish with a fanfare. Obviously designed to impress, intoxicating smokey aromas were unleashed the moment our waiter lifted the covers, and we waited in eager anticipation of what lay in the dish. This turned out to be another of my favourite courses - the chicken was extremely tender and well seasoned with smokey flavours lingering within the flesh. The creamed aubergine was rich and sweet, while the lentil sauce provided complex flavours from the multiple spices being used. The figurative icing on the cake were the deep fried potato straws, which were amazingly light and crispy.

Dessert: 'chocomosa' - warm marbled chocolate samosa, rose petal & vanilla ice cream.

An indulgent end to an excellent meal. It is unusual to see a samosa in a dessert, and this large warm piece was full of rich dark and white chocolate cream - almost too much of a good thing. This was complemented by a lighter ice cream which was equally appealing, with its smooth texture and solid pairing of subtler flavours. Very very good indeed.

On the whole, it had been a fascinating journey into the different culinary characteristics of the Indian subcontinent. Simple everyday dishes were elevated by sophisticated twists in flavour combinations and presentation. This is an intense cuisine which may not be immediately to everyone's liking, but go with an open mind and you'll be richly rewarded!