Final lunch at Pálffy Palác restaurant, Prague

On our last afternoon in Prague, we went to the restaurant at Pálffy Palác for a final treat. I didn't actually know about this place, and the only reason we ended up there was that the owner of a casual restaurant we were eating at the evening before had recommended it. Prior to starting his own business, he had worked at both Pálffy Palác and Terasa U Zlaté Studně (see previous review), and apparently these two restaurants are owned by the same person. We figured that we couldn't go very wrong trying Pálffy Palác, even if it was not really on any foodie guide's to-do list. 

This 18th-century building with opulent baroque interiors has had significant artistic connections in recent years: it used to be the Ministry of Culture, and currently houses the Prague Conservatory (Music). The restaurant occupies the second floor, and banquet rooms for weddings and other huge functions are also available.

Dining room full of old-world charm.

Even the still water bottle looks so posh!
('Limited Edition' since 1994 - 
not really that limited is it?)

To accompany our bread, we were given two whole roasted garlics in addition to the customary butter. Very unusual and tasted great when the aromatic & slightly caramelised cloves were spread over bread, as close to an authentic garlic spread as one could get - even if it didn't do our breath any favours!

Starter: chicken consommé with tomato essence and homemade liver dumplings.

This was a flavourful and surprisingly thick broth that was given good balance by the tartness of tomato essence. The liver dumplings were well seasoned and rather smooth in texture.

Starter: gravlax (salmon marinated in salt and herbs) stuffed with avocado and tomatoes, served with arugula (rocket) and soya-ginger dressing.

A posh take on smoked salmon salad, this thick parcel was completely filled with creamy avocado studded with juicy bits of tomato dice. When taken together with the salmon, the resulting mouthfeel and combination of sweet and salty flavours was simply delightful. This deceptively indulgent dish was given a good balance by the refreshing and mildly spicy accompaniments of rocket leaves and ginger-infused soya dressing.

Starter: pan-seared foie gras on caramelised apples.

This was my favourite starter - the combination was simple and predictable, but perfectly executed. The caramelised apples had a soft, velvety texture that went seamlessly with the rich creamy foie gras, and enhanced its slight charred taste with a delightful sweetness. I could have licked the plate clean.

Main course: confit of duck leg on cranberry cabbage.

I was wondering why my mother decided to order this after the countless roast ducks that we had ingested during our trip, but it was a good choice after all. The meat in this typical Czech dish was extremely tender and succulent, while the red cabbage that lay beneath was very juicy, with the right balance of sweetness and acidity.

Main course: grilled chicken breast with chestnut stuffing.

There are some inherent challenges in dealing with breast meat - due to its lower fat content, it is naturally less succulent, and if just slightly overcooked produces a very dry, tough and unpalatable texture fit only for diet regimes. This dish was however extremely well-done, and the meat remained largely moist and tender despite the size of the portion, while the chestnut stuffing was very well seasoned and subtly sweet. A very simple and comforting dish.

Main course: pike perch roasted on its skin, served on a cabbage stew with bacon and garlic.

The texture of the fish was excellent - tender, moist and flaking easily - and unlike the one I had at Rybí Trh, this was entirely boneless and safe. Its delicate flavour was well matched by the mildly sweet cabbage stew, while savoury and aromatic depths were contributed by the bits of chopped bacon and garlic within the stew. An absolute delight.

Dessert: profiteroles filled with vanilla ice-cream, served with chocolate and caramel sauces.

This was definitely not the most sophisticated item to appear on a fine-dining menu (one could probably get this at any casual café in Prague for much less than the price charged here), but the portion was truly huge and satisfying. Nothing wrong with going back to the bare essentials sometimes, I suppose!

Dessert: chocolate moelleux with orange-passionfruit emulsion and grapefruit sorbet.

This was an excellent pairing in terms of flavour, with a mild bitter taste common to both dark chocolate and grapefruit. The naturally acidic grapefruit sorbet and orange-passionfruit emulsion also provided a good balance to the rich dark chocolate cake. Individually, the sorbet was faultless in both presentation and taste, and had a smooth consistent texture. As for the chocolate moelleux, I certainly wished for a more runny centre (admittedly not the easiest thing to achieve in a moelleux, where precise baking temperature and time are essential) - otherwise it becomes no more than a rich chocolate muffin.

Dessert: lavender crème brûlée with mint and strawberry.

This was a delightful dessert, with the rich and velvety custard infused with the unmistakeable flavour and aroma of lavender. The custard itself was not cloyingly sweet, and the strawberry and physalis (cape gooseberry) provided a refreshing balance with their mild acidity.

It had been a truly nice last meal by which to remember this beautiful city. The ambience was elegant and charming, and the waiter who attended to us throughout was extremely professional and cordial, even though we were walk-in customers and not exactly well-dressed. The food itself, whilst seemingly predictable and lacking the wow factor, was very well-cooked and presented throughout; each component had been precisely executed and plated. Most importantly, despite the opulent surroundings it was surprisingly good value-for-money. This is surely an establishment to consider if we ever return to Prague!