Half-priced Sunday dinner at Kimchee

I went out to dinner at Kimchee this evening with two friends, to make use of their weekly half-price Sunday offer (on all food and desserts; drinks not included). Our first visit in February had been a good experience, so now we were determined to try as many dishes as possible at even better value-for-money! The queue was expectedly long and we waited about an hour in the strong wind to get in, but thoughts of the feast ahead kept our spirits up.

Nothing better than a pot of hot barley tea to accompany a hearty meal and counter the chilly weather outside. I really liked its nutty roasted flavour, very similar to Japanese genmaicha.

We ordered a multitude of side dishes to share. This first one is of course the obligatory kimchee or pickled Korean cabbage. Every bit as good as the last time - refreshingly sour and salty, with a mild spiciness to set the palate up for the meal ahead. I think this portion was even bigger than the last one we had!

Next was pa jeon or traditional Korean pancake with spring onions and mixed seafood, served with a soy and chive sauce. Another repeat order, this was really fragrant and moreish. A crisp and light outer coating concealed generous bits of fresh shrimp, squid, scallops etc. The sharp-flavoured sauce enhanced the dish's savoury depth and dispelled any hints of greasiness immediately.

Now to sample some new dishes: this was squid bokkeum or stir fried squid and vegetables (mainly peppers and spring onions I noticed) in a fiery hot chilli sauce. Not too sure about the 'fiery hot' bit - perhaps so by Western standards, but it hardly did anything for us! Still this was a very nice dish - the squid thankfully not overcooked so it was still quite easy to chew, coated generously in a chilli sauce which I would judge to be mildly spicy and sweet (most authentic Korean chilli sauces are seldom as spicy as they look, and always have a sweetish aftertaste). The peppers contributed a nice juicy crunch to the texture while the spring onions delivered appealing aromas.

This was prawn chilli, crisp battered prawns in a sweet and sour sauce. This was a bit disappointing I felt; the batter was quite soggy (perhaps not surprisingly after being drenched in a sauce) and the portion size was very small (only 4 king prawns, but at half-price we couldn't possibly complain!). On the plus side, the prawns were rather fresh and maintained a firm texture, and the sauce was appetising.

Next, crab tuigim, soft shell crab fried in breadcrumbs and served with a plum dipping sauce. This was really good - it didn't feel greasy at all, just a very thin crispy layer of breadcrumbs over sweet, savoury and succulent flesh. The plum dipping sauce had a good balance of sweetness and acidity, and helped to cut through the apparent richness of this deep fried dish. Comfort food at its best.

Last side dish of yang yeum chicken or lightly battered chicken in a sweet chilli sauce, served in a rice basket. I actually thought this was the least satisfactory of the starters - soggy batter (even for the bits that were untouched by the sauce) and the meat was rather dry and tough (but thankfully in bite-sized pieces, so it was bearable with the delicious sauce). The rice basket was nothing to shout about either - as soggy as the batter. This portion, though, was the most generous of the sides that we had ordered.

Now on to the rice/noodle mains: this was jjam bbong, listed under 'joong sik' or Korean-style Chinese cuisine - spicy seafood noodle soup with squid, prawns, mussels, scallops and vegetables. This was wonderful - the soup was as spicy as it should be, and extremely light and tasty. Topped with copious amounts of fresh seafood and crunchy shredded vegetables (cucumbers, onions, peppers, chilli), this was a bowl of pure piping hot delight.

Another noodle dish: this was Japanese-style seafood udon, with the same seafood now mixed into stir fried thick noodles in a rich, sweet soy sauce. The texture of the noodles was excellent - smooth, slick and slurp-worthy on the outside, and chewy & substantial within. The soy sauce gave the fresh seafood pieces further savoury depth whilst enhancing their natural sweetness.

Last main dish of the evening: seafood dolsot bibimbap, the classic Korean rice dish served in a hot stone bowl with toppings of the customer's choice (in our case the same stuff as in the previous two dishes). This one came rather unusually with an oyster sauce instead of the usual red chilli paste, but for a good reason - the oyster sauce obviously works much better than chilli in complementing the natural flavours of seafood. The sesame oil which coated the inner part of the bowl gave the dish an incredible aroma (and of course prevented any rice grains from charring and sticking to the bowl) as everything was mixed together. I could never get sick of this wholesome and scrumptious dish.

Dessert to finish: all three of us ordered this ice cream flavour of sweet chestnut, topped with dried dates and pine nuts. Very authentic flavour with a nice, smooth texture. It was a pleasant surprise for both my friends, who had been expecting something more like a water chestnut flavour, but got their richer cousin instead.

We were totally stuffed and nearly unable to move after sharing all that food. This was possibly the best food deal I've ever encountered in an expensive city like London. The damage? Only £14 per person after service charge!!

Anyway, as we walked out we noticed that this half-price deal will be discontinued at the end of April - shame we wouldn't get to do this again! I'm sure it's still pretty good value at full price, but given the number of dishes we've already covered here, I'm not in a hurry to return in the near future.

Final lunch at Pálffy Palác restaurant, Prague

On our last afternoon in Prague, we went to the restaurant at Pálffy Palác for a final treat. I didn't actually know about this place, and the only reason we ended up there was that the owner of a casual restaurant we were eating at the evening before had recommended it. Prior to starting his own business, he had worked at both Pálffy Palác and Terasa U Zlaté Studně (see previous review), and apparently these two restaurants are owned by the same person. We figured that we couldn't go very wrong trying Pálffy Palác, even if it was not really on any foodie guide's to-do list. 

This 18th-century building with opulent baroque interiors has had significant artistic connections in recent years: it used to be the Ministry of Culture, and currently houses the Prague Conservatory (Music). The restaurant occupies the second floor, and banquet rooms for weddings and other huge functions are also available.

Dining room full of old-world charm.

Even the still water bottle looks so posh!
('Limited Edition' since 1994 - 
not really that limited is it?)

To accompany our bread, we were given two whole roasted garlics in addition to the customary butter. Very unusual and tasted great when the aromatic & slightly caramelised cloves were spread over bread, as close to an authentic garlic spread as one could get - even if it didn't do our breath any favours!

Starter: chicken consommé with tomato essence and homemade liver dumplings.

This was a flavourful and surprisingly thick broth that was given good balance by the tartness of tomato essence. The liver dumplings were well seasoned and rather smooth in texture.

Starter: gravlax (salmon marinated in salt and herbs) stuffed with avocado and tomatoes, served with arugula (rocket) and soya-ginger dressing.

A posh take on smoked salmon salad, this thick parcel was completely filled with creamy avocado studded with juicy bits of tomato dice. When taken together with the salmon, the resulting mouthfeel and combination of sweet and salty flavours was simply delightful. This deceptively indulgent dish was given a good balance by the refreshing and mildly spicy accompaniments of rocket leaves and ginger-infused soya dressing.

Starter: pan-seared foie gras on caramelised apples.

This was my favourite starter - the combination was simple and predictable, but perfectly executed. The caramelised apples had a soft, velvety texture that went seamlessly with the rich creamy foie gras, and enhanced its slight charred taste with a delightful sweetness. I could have licked the plate clean.

Main course: confit of duck leg on cranberry cabbage.

I was wondering why my mother decided to order this after the countless roast ducks that we had ingested during our trip, but it was a good choice after all. The meat in this typical Czech dish was extremely tender and succulent, while the red cabbage that lay beneath was very juicy, with the right balance of sweetness and acidity.

Main course: grilled chicken breast with chestnut stuffing.

There are some inherent challenges in dealing with breast meat - due to its lower fat content, it is naturally less succulent, and if just slightly overcooked produces a very dry, tough and unpalatable texture fit only for diet regimes. This dish was however extremely well-done, and the meat remained largely moist and tender despite the size of the portion, while the chestnut stuffing was very well seasoned and subtly sweet. A very simple and comforting dish.

Main course: pike perch roasted on its skin, served on a cabbage stew with bacon and garlic.

The texture of the fish was excellent - tender, moist and flaking easily - and unlike the one I had at Rybí Trh, this was entirely boneless and safe. Its delicate flavour was well matched by the mildly sweet cabbage stew, while savoury and aromatic depths were contributed by the bits of chopped bacon and garlic within the stew. An absolute delight.

Dessert: profiteroles filled with vanilla ice-cream, served with chocolate and caramel sauces.

This was definitely not the most sophisticated item to appear on a fine-dining menu (one could probably get this at any casual café in Prague for much less than the price charged here), but the portion was truly huge and satisfying. Nothing wrong with going back to the bare essentials sometimes, I suppose!

Dessert: chocolate moelleux with orange-passionfruit emulsion and grapefruit sorbet.

This was an excellent pairing in terms of flavour, with a mild bitter taste common to both dark chocolate and grapefruit. The naturally acidic grapefruit sorbet and orange-passionfruit emulsion also provided a good balance to the rich dark chocolate cake. Individually, the sorbet was faultless in both presentation and taste, and had a smooth consistent texture. As for the chocolate moelleux, I certainly wished for a more runny centre (admittedly not the easiest thing to achieve in a moelleux, where precise baking temperature and time are essential) - otherwise it becomes no more than a rich chocolate muffin.

Dessert: lavender crème brûlée with mint and strawberry.

This was a delightful dessert, with the rich and velvety custard infused with the unmistakeable flavour and aroma of lavender. The custard itself was not cloyingly sweet, and the strawberry and physalis (cape gooseberry) provided a refreshing balance with their mild acidity.

It had been a truly nice last meal by which to remember this beautiful city. The ambience was elegant and charming, and the waiter who attended to us throughout was extremely professional and cordial, even though we were walk-in customers and not exactly well-dressed. The food itself, whilst seemingly predictable and lacking the wow factor, was very well-cooked and presented throughout; each component had been precisely executed and plated. Most importantly, despite the opulent surroundings it was surprisingly good value-for-money. This is surely an establishment to consider if we ever return to Prague!

Dinner at Terasa U Zlaté Studně, Prague

I had a memorable dinner at Terasa U Zlaté Studně during my family vacation in Prague. This restaurant is located on the top floor of the luxury boutique hotel Golden Well (that's what Zlaté Studně means in Czech), and boasts the best views of the city's skyline on the other side of the Vltava river. It has also garnered a reputation as one of the best fine-dining establishments in the city (No. 1 on TripAdvisor), and reservations are essential. The kitchen is run by Pavel Sapík, one of the top native chefs in the country.

The hotel is located in a small alleyway in the most historic area of Prague (Malá Strana), at the foot of the castle. Definitely not the easiest to find, so if you're visiting, be armed with a reliable map and a good sense of direction!

One of the best boutique hotels in Prague,
housed in a 16th-century building.

Views of the courtyard

Cosy lobby area

Waiting area in the restaurant

Accolades hang proudly on the side walls.

Elegant table setting

We were offered a good selection of breads containing various grains and seeds. My favourites were the dried fruit & nut (left foreground) and dark pumpkin seed (back centre) varieties - good enough to eat on their own!

Amuse-bouche: belly of fallow deer with cranberries and watercress. A posh take on ham, studded with tart fresh cranberries for balance, while the mildly spicy watercress helped to lift the palette for the meal ahead.

Starter: flame-grilled sea scallops on strawberries, with a garnish of watercress and champagne rose jelly.

This was a delicate and delightful starter. The fresh scallops were grilled to tender perfection and maintained all their juices. The artfully sliced pieces of strawberry enhanced the scallops' natural sweetness whilst also providing a mildly tart edge, and the small pieces of jelly imparted a touch of freshness with their subtle flavours.

Starter: trio of tuna - tartare with poached quail egg, tataki with white radish and wasabi, and a skewer with lemongrass and teriyaki sauce.

Freshness is top priority when dealing with raw fish and seafood, and this tuna trio did not disappoint on that front. Surprisingly delicate flavours with no suspicious fishy smell. The tartare was well seasoned with shallots, chives etc. and produced a nice, mildly creamy texture when blended with the poached egg. The sesame-crusted tataki was similarly delightful when paired with the fresh & crisp shredded white radish, while the last lemongrass and teriyaki pairing was both aromatic and savoury. This was an unexpectedly good Westernised take on Japanese raw fish cuisine.

Starter: grilled black tiger prawns served with mango carpaccio, fresh avocado and vanilla dressing. 

This was my favourite starter of the lot, with two of the largest and juiciest prawns I've ever tried sitting atop a generous portion of fresh thinly-sliced mango. The creamy avocado and vanilla dressing imparted further sweetness as well as a luxurious mouthfeel to each juicy bite. This was on the whole a rather sweet dish (perhaps a tad overwhelmingly so for some people) but I certainly wasn't complaining!

Main course: pan fried red snapper served with baked cherry tomatoes and vegetable cous-cous in a saffron beurre blanc sauce.

The texture of this fish was surprisingly meaty and succulent, not quite the flaky delicate type that we have back home (different species perhaps?). In any case, this generous chunk was moist and delicious, with the velvety and aromatic saffron cream sauce imparting a touch of luxury, and the cherry tomatoes and vegetables (spinach I believe) providing a wholesome balance to the dish.

Main course: roasted rack of fallow deer with caramelised peaches, wild oyster mushrooms and Grand Veneur sauce.

The two rather thick pieces of meat were surprisingly tender and succulent, well matched by the meaty texture of oyster mushrooms and savoury Grand Veneur sauce. The dish on the whole felt astonishingly light due to the strong presence of fruits, in particular several types of berries, which provided a mildly acidic balance to this substantial course.

Main course: poached halibut in olive oil 'Lakudia', on cuttlefish & squid ink risotto in lobster bisque.

This was my favourite main course. The halibut with olive oil was amazingly silky, moist and delicate, and reminded me instantly of the one I had as part of the Chef's Menu at MW@The Berkeley in London. Worthy of the highest praise in its own right, it was further augmented by a velvety and intense lobster bisque, and well-cooked risotto with grains that retained a nice firm bite. This was truly the one dish of the evening that met Michelin standards.

Dessert: plum ravioli served with ground caramelised nuts and homemade gingerbread ice cream.

This dessert is a signature of the restaurant and features on its tasting menu. Truth be told, I was a little underwhelmed by its taste. It wasn't bad, just very ordinary. I liked the crunchy bits of nuts though, and the ice cream was stellar - rich, smooth and intense in flavour. What did mar the presentation was the fact that the ice-cream was half-melted and overflowing from the spoon when it was served - a major pet peeve of mine! In restaurants of this quality and price point, every detail that is not taken care of sticks out like a sore thumb.

Dessert: a selection of seasonal sorbets (from front to back) - campari orange, raspberry, lemon.

Thankfully, these appeared in much better form, and tasted as good as they looked. They were all very smooth and consistent in texture. My personal favourite was the campari orange, with a slight hint of bitterness. Very refreshing after all the large courses that we'd had.

Dessert: coconut parfait on a bed of marinated pineapple, with coffee cake and a warm brownie served with sabayon sauce (a light custard made of eggs, sugar and dessert wine, with additional flavourings to taste).

This was full of tropical flavours and very good indeed. Both the creamy parfait and rich brownie were refreshingly complemented by pineapple-based accompaniments (the sabayon was slightly sourish - probably infused with pineapple as well), while the coffee cake, like a good heady tiramisu, held its own on the plate with intense coffee flavours and aromas.

We passed by the terrace area (still too chilly to sit out there, unfortunately) on a trip to the washroom after dinner.

Gorgeous views of Prague's city centre
from the castle side of the river.

To summarise, it had been an enjoyable evening of great food in one of the most charming quarters of Prague. Service was basic, but friendly & professional (though I would tend to give the wait staff the benefit of the doubt, by attributing any minor lapses to cultural differences or language difficulties). It is rather expensive even by West European standards, but the food and ambience do justify the high prices charged. 

I can quite honestly say that this had been the best fine meal that we tried in Prague, so if you only have time/money for one nice restaurant, let this be it!

All good things must come to an end...