The full 10-course experience at Roganic

I visited Roganic this evening as a well-deserved end to two very busy weeks. This restaurant, named after its chef patron Simon Rogan, is the sister establishment to Rogan's Michelin-starred flagship in the Lake District, L'Enclume. As a newcomer to London's dining scene, it also has a rather interesting history - calling itself a 'two-year pop up restaurant' because it is currently running on the remaining part of the lease that the previous owner of the space sold to Rogan.

Situated along Blanford Street (nearest tube: Baker Street station), the restaurant is very small and its façade so nondescript that one might walk right past and miss it completely. This simple front, however, belies the great cuisine that is served behind its doors, cooked with fresh seasonal British produce, in an authentic style very different from the usual French-inspired fine-dining restaurants. There is no à la carte menu; only 2 tasting menus are offered (either 6 or 10 courses; vegetarian options available) in addition to a budget 3-course menu at lunchtime. I decided to go for the full experience of 10 courses.

I arrived early so the restaurant was relatively empty,

but it was a full house later on!

The stone slab in the middle is for butter,

in case you're wondering. 

Canapés: corned beef croquette with pickled apple and carrot, and a salt beef sandwich with horseradish cream.

The croquette was pure comfort food: tender & well-seasoned ground meat coated in crispy breadcrumbs, and balanced with the sourish & crunchy pickles. The flower presentation was extremely eye-catching and added a touch of sophistication. The 'sandwich' consisted of two pieces of salt beef, sliced incredibly thin, with a layer of horseradish cream - just spicy enough to tickle the tastebuds for a great meal ahead.

Bread and butter: I don't usually write about this in a separate section, but this was really the most impressive quality I've experienced in a while. From left to right: Irish sourdough, potato and buttermilk, pump and nickel, chestnut and thyme flatbread. Served warm and fluffy (except the last one, of course, which was more like a crisp) - delicious throughout. I loved especially the Irish sourdough and the flatbread. Accompanied by freshly churned Gloucestershire salted butter, which managed somehow to combine intense dairy flavours with a light & smooth consistency - simply amazing and even better than those served at some Michelin establishments.

First course: millet pudding with grains, burnt pear, rope leaves and Devon blue cheese. 

A posh take on rice pudding, this was extremely creamy and satisfying. The grains retained a firm and chewy texture, and the infusion of blue cheese into the pudding imparted a richness of flavour that one would not normally expect to find in this humble dish. The rope leaves (a type of sea vegetable) provided a saltish crunch, while the juicy burnt pear both balanced and enhanced the dish with its sweet and smoky flavours. The dish was then surrounded by a pool of fragrant marjoram oil - light and fruity, like a very good olive oil. Beautiful presentation on a large grey plate, and intentionally arranged off-centre to enhance the overall visual effect.

Second course: razor clams flavoured with fennel, squid toast, brown butter and Legbar (egg from the rare Legbar chicken breed) emulsion.

This was an interesting dish - I didn't quite know what to make of it. Very strong and unusual flavours from the combination of the emulsion (mainly smoky and salty) and the fennel (with its distinct aroma). These accompaniments were perhaps a tad too overpowering for the razor clams, which were well cooked but just bordering on a chewy texture. The squid ink toast was delicious. Of special note was the presentation, where the emulsion with the clams was poured into the dish from an open Legbar eggshell, which itself came in a small carton amidst other fresh uncracked Legbar eggs. I thought that was pretty fun and novel, and it was a pity I didn't get a picture of the carton because the eggshells had a beautiful pastel blue colour, which is apparently peculiar to this rare chicken breed (as I found out later at home).

Third course: langoustine wrapped in pork skin, Jerusalem artichoke purée, carrot and sea buckthorn vinaigrette with a sprinkling of red cress and dehydrated cabbage.

This was a really unusual way of preparing langoustine, and it worked beautifully, with the aromatic, salty and crispy crackling enhancing and preserving the natural flavours of the langoustine within. The only complaint from me would be that the outer crackling was too thick in places (could be a little difficult to bite through) and the bumpy bits frequently & annoyingly stuck to the teeth. The purée added an aptly rich sweetness to the dish, while the rather astringent vinaigrette provided an essential balance.

Fourth course: 'Grown up yolk from the Golden Egg', bok choi, warm mayonnaise and barley milk.

I think the 'yolk' needs to be explained - a mixture of chicken thigh and vegetable stock is cooked to caramelisation, then puréed, sifted, set in a mould and frozen. Before serving, the ball is left to thaw, and dipped into gold leaf mixture for a shiny coat. The thick creamy consistency of the purée was amazing, and the flavours intense. Served on a bed of chopped deep-fried chicken skin laced with sweet barley milk, and mayonnaise on the side - pure sin, thankfully mitigated by the bok choi in a savoury sauce (chicken stock or roasting juices?). Overall a satisfying and tasty dish.

Fifth course: poached and grilled King Oyster mushroom, buttered mushroom purée, 'mushroom soil' (dehydrated & smoked mushroom and almond), pine, beetroot, chicory and coastal sea leaves.

One of the highlights of the evening, which tasted every bit as good as it looked. The mushroom was meaty and substantial, and grilled to juicy perfection, allowing its wonderful earthy and smoky flavours to emerge. It was complemented by a rich purée and equally intense powdered 'mushroom soil'. The vegetable accompaniments provided a refreshing crunch amidst the sheer indulgence of this dish.

Sixth course: caramelised cauliflower, sour cream, raisin purée, roasted baby gem, and pennywort, with a generous sprinkling of dehydrated cauliflower powder across the plate.

Solid, if unspectacular, dish. A sort of palate cleanser, perhaps? Both the cauliflower and lettuce were very nicely roasted, retaining their natural sweetness and moisture whilst possessing an subtle and appealing charred taste. The sweet-and-sour raisin purée and drops of sour cream were excellent accompaniments to this light dish. 

Seventh course: roasted Cornish gurnard, celeriac (jus and purée), brown shrimps and sprout leaves.

The plating of this dish seemed rather haphazard, but it was delicious nonetheless, bursting with flavours of the sea. The fish was extremely well done, remaining tender and moist within, whilst having a thin and crispy outer layer that contributed a subtle and appealing charred taste. The natural sweetness of the fish was well complemented by the celeriac accompaniments as well as the crunchy sprout leaves. Lashings of marjoram oil imparted further aromatic depth to this dish.

Eighth course: 52-hour braised Longhorn shortrib in its roasting juices, parsnip (both roasted and puréed), mayweed, smoked redcurrants, toasted pumpkin seeds, and lily bulbs.

This was the other highlight of the evening. The premium Longhorns are apparently the oldest British breed of cattle, originating in the North, and probably the closest one could get to the world-famous & insanely expensive Kobe beef from Japan (not that I've ever tried the latter!). Although this was a substantial chunk, the increased marbling of fat and long hours of slow roasting produced a tender, almost melt-in-your-mouth experience, full of deep flavours and aromas. The savoury roasting juices were simply delicious. This rich dish was aptly complemented by lily bulbs and parsnip, both sweet and starchy, and balanced with a few very tart redcurrants. The toasted pumpkin seeds were delightfully fragrant and crunchy. A true masterpiece in every respect.

Pre-dessert: spiced bread with a cinnamon sugar coating, sea buckthorn emulsion with atsina cress, smoked clotted cream ice-cream with glazed almond shavings.

Perfect dish for the winter climate, with the combination of cinnamon, spiced bread, almonds, and atsina cress (an unusual herb with strong hints of liquorice and aniseed). The ice-cream really stood out - rich, smoky (salty) and sweet - both unusual and luxurious. I wasn't too convinced by the use of buckthorn because of its very distinct tartness, but it sure made for very nice plating!

Ninth course: Warm Bramley cake on liquorice curd, Granny Smith strips, Pink Lady sorbet on walnut crumble, and atsina.

Essentially variations on three different types of British apples. I really enjoyed the warm cake with its brandy-soaked apple filling, and the tart & incredibly smooth sorbet which balanced the overall richness of this dessert. The strips made for very nice presentation and added a touch of sophistication, whilst the crumble, liquorice and atsina provided apt seasonal flavours, as with the pre-dessert.

Tenth course: Yorkshire rhubarb, dried caramel powder, natural yoghurt sorbet and iced lemon thyme.

A most refreshing end to the menu, with predominantly sourish flavours. The sorbet had an incredible lightness and consistency, the iced lemon thyme was very aromatic, and the rhubarb contributed an appealing crunchy texture.

Petit fours: in the shot glass, custard infused with winter savory, topped with pear purée, gingerbread crumble & atsina; on the granite slab, orange marmalade cake.

Very satisfying end to the whole meal. The custard was warm, rich, and very aromatic with the inclusion of various winter herbs and spices in the shot glass. The presentation was rather interesting too - almost like a science experiment in school with plants growing out of a soil layer! 

The orange cake was light, moist, fluffy, and intensely flavoured, with a nice dollop of orange icing on top. I'm not a fan of cupcakes generally, but was won over by this mini version.

In general, an excellent meal and real value for money. The atmosphere of the restaurant was truly lively and unpretentious (no dress code but don't go there too shabbily either!) and the service was incredibly friendly, attentive and patient, considering that I was a new customer and asking a lot of questions about various dishes. Simply solid food, with comforting, intense flavours throughout, good presentation and interesting use of native produce. The restaurant already has 3 AA Rosettes, 7 months into its opening, and I hope it goes on to win bigger accolades very soon (provided it stays open long enough!). I'll definitely be returning!