Birthday dinner at Mikuni, Singapore

This evening, I returned to Mikuni with my mother and partner, for a belated birthday celebration for my mother. On Mondays, FAR Card members get 50% off the entire menu for up to 5 people per table (on other days the 50% discount only applies to a party of two), so if you love Japanese fine-dining and are looking to celebrate a special occasion, there really is no better deal in town. Just apply for the card and get ready to indulge! Unsurprisingly, Mondays at Mikuni are often fully booked for both lunch and dinner, so do reserve at least a week or two in advance if you are planning to go.

Fortunately this time we were seated towards the back of the restaurant, away from the area with the strong blue lighting, so that we were subliminally less distracted, could hold a conversation without the next table being too close to us, and take pictures with a much more natural colour balance. The atmosphere seemed rather calm and cosy despite the full house this evening, and we felt at ease very quickly.

To start, we were offered the usual spicy prawn crackers with dustings of nori and other spices and seasonings - these crisp paper-thin morsels are always a joy to behold in the palate.

This evening, we ordered from the whole range of dinner menus. I went for the 7-course Grand Tasting Menu (GTM), my partner went for the 6-course Spring Dinner Course (SDC), and my mother decided to go à la carte (ALC) as she didn't want to eat excessively. I do like how flexible this kitchen is, given that most fine-dining establishments require that the entire table takes the same menu, for (understandably) practical reasons. I shall review all three menus concurrently using the above abbreviations.

(GTM)

お通し：北海道産ズワイ蟹、柚子ゼリー、キャビア、桜の葉と芽

Cold starter: Hokkaido snow crab, yuzu jelly, Oscietra caviar, sakura leaf and buds

A luxurious yet understated start to the GTM, this consisted of generous chunks of Hokkaido snow crab topped with soft yuzu jelly and caviar, garnished with sakura buds and wrapped in a whole sakura leaf as symbols of spring. The sweetness and succulence of the crab was perfectly complemented by the distinctive citrusy flavour of the yuzu jelly, and enhanced with a pleasant umami from the juicy caviar topping. The sakura leaf and buds weren't simply decorative either; their delicate and sweet aroma enveloped this starter and brought all its components together very elegantly and harmoniously. Just lovely on all levels.

(GTM)

お通し：鮑の酒蒸し、菊の花、茗荷、木の芽、松の実

Warm starter: abalone steamed in sake, with chrysanthemum, pickled ginger flower, Japanese pricklyash and crushed pine nuts

The indulgence continued with a second starter of steamed abalone, placed appropriately in a beautiful real abalone shell with a shimmering natural mother-of-pearl inlay. This dish tasted every bit as good as it looked. The two small chunks of abalone were very tender and juicy, and steaming with a touch of sake really helped to highlight their freshness and natural umami, due to the sake's delicate aroma and effective balance of spiciness and sweetness. Crushed pine nuts contributed a delightful crunch as well as further depth of flavour. The other garnishes completed this dish on a very clean and crisp note; the slivers of ginger flower kept the appetite stimulated with their puckering astringency, while pricklyash refreshed the palate and prepared the tastebuds for the following course.

(SDC)

お通し：温泉卵、じゅんさい、雲丹、トリュフソース

Starter: Japanese onsen egg with water shield and black truffle, Hokkaido sea urchin

The only starter of the SDC was this little pot filled with a surprisingly generous amount of opulent ingredients such as truffle shavings and sea urchin. Perhaps that was part of the problem with this dish, which I felt really lacked focus. To be sure, the components were excellent when tasted and considered individually; the sea urchin was sweet and creamy, the truffle shavings enhanced with truffle oil enticed with their deep earthy aroma, and the onsen egg slow-cooked at 65 degrees had a perfectly runny and viscous yolk surrounded by extremely delicate egg white. However, putting all of them together in the same mouthful, I could hardly taste or smell anything beyond the overpowering truffles. The excessive amount of truffle oil in the sauce also made the dish feel unnecessarily greasy and heavy on the whole. Everything else came across as a bland and unexciting mush, which was a real shame considering the excellent quality of the sea urchin and the perfect execution of the egg - these should have been the real stars of the dish, with just a touch of truffles for enhancement. Needless to say, I completely overlooked the stalks of water shield at the bottom of the pot, and I still don't understand why they needed to be there. On the whole, I thought that this dish needed much greater thought in balance. Something as distinctive and powerful as truffles ought to be used very judiciously; one does not drench a dish in truffle shavings and oil at the expense of other ingredients, or to create an superficial impression of extravagance. In any case, as much as I love truffles in Western gastronomy, this particular fungi seems to me too strong for the delicacy and subtlety that characterise fine Japanese cuisine.

(GTM)

季節の刺身：大トロ、カンパチ、甘海老、雲丹．大葉、大根、蓮芋、百合根、生海苔、菊の花、山葵

Seasonal sashimi: fatty tuna belly, yellowtail, sweet shrimp and sea urchin, with garnishes of shiso leaf, shredded daikon, hasu-imo, lily bulb, fresh seaweed, chrysanthemum and grated wasabi

My sashimi course was presented very impressively in a huge bowl filled with ice. The plating was beautiful, and the seafood didn't disappoint either. Everything was absolutely fresh and excellent; the tuna belly was melt-in-the-mouth and full of rich natural oils, the yellowtail was succulent and tender, the sea urchin was very sweet and creamy, and the shrimp was delicately sweet and had a firm, juicy and springy bite. The garnishes were elaborate too. Apart from the usual shiso leaf, shredded daikon and grated wasabi, there was a slice of hasu-imo (a member of the taro family) which had a very light, airy and slightly gooey crunch as its distinctive appearance with lots of holes suggests. There was also a piece of lily bulb, one of my favourite ingredients (and frequently used in Chinese medicines and desserts) with its sweet taste and starchy texture, as well as a clump of fresh seaweed, which had a delicate umami and a tender bite. On the whole, this was a most delightful platter that satisfied and rejuvenated all the senses.

(SDC)

特選刺身：赤身、カンパチ、烏賊．大葉、大根、穂紫蘇、長芋、百合根、菊の花、山葵

Seasonal sashimi: lean tuna, yellowtail, and squid wrapped with nori, with garnishes of shiso leaf, shredded daikon, shiso buds, Chinese yam strips, lily bulb, chrysanthemum and grated wasabi

Less fancy in outlook, but with no loss in the actual quality of execution, was the sashimi platter in the SDC. While there were no premium items such as fatty tuna and sea urchin, these three 'basic' types of sashimi were still very enjoyable indeed. The lean tuna had a fresh and intense flavour matching its vivid red colour, while the squid rolls were very tender and moist, with no signs of rubberiness at all. The squid's delicate sweetness was also well enhanced by a deeper umami from a small piece of nori in each roll - a somewhat unusual method of presentation, but entirely effective. The garnishes were largely the same as in the GTM, but with the more common Chinese yam or naga-imo in place of hasu-imo (both have the same kind of gooeyness, although I find hasu-imo juicier, crunchier and lighter).

(GTM)

焼物：甘鯛味噌焼き、玉ねぎ、粽麩、畳鰯、蕗の籐

Grilled dish: sweet sea bream marinated in and grilled with miso, grilled Kyoto onion, mugwort gluten wrapped in bamboo leaf, dried crispy sardine sheet, butterbur sprout

My grilled dish was a small piece of sweet bream or amadai, a premium Japanese fish with a sweet taste as its name suggests. This fish was slightly firmer and less moist than I remembered it from my first tasting menu experience here, but still good. Its taste was enhanced aptly by marinating in sweet Kyoto white miso (saikyou miso) before grilling. Saikyou miso is one of my favourite Japanese ingredients as it possesses a really deep umami and a unique elegant balance between sweet and salty (all other misos simply lean towards the latter). Grilling with saikyou miso is one of the favourite Japanese methods of cooking fish, with almost always brilliant results especially for deep-sea oily fishes. My piece of fish also had a nicely charred skin which added to the overall flavour. The other standout was the gluten, soft, chewy, and infused with subtle aromas from mugwort as well as the bamboo leaf that wrapped around it. This gluten is another produce of Kyoto, widely lauded for its health benefits and versatility for cooking. Other accompaniments included Kyoto onion (a smaller and sweeter variety compared to the common onion), sardine sheet (like a fish cracker) and butterbur, a slightly bitter mountain vegetable to complement the grilled components. For refreshment, pickled onion and ginger flower, as well as a dollop of spicy grated radish were provided on the side. On the whole, a well-composed dish.

(SDC)

魚介：メバル煮付け、筍、ししとう、椎茸、生姜

Seafood dish: soy-braised black rockfish, with bamboo shoots, green shishito peppers, shiitake mushroom and ginger

Black rockfish or mebaru is a premium fish for which the best seasons are spring and summer. It is usually served in a stew like this, but one may take some time to work through the fish due to its numerous small bones. My partner found this rather disappointing unfortunately; the flesh was quite dry and tough, a sure sign of having been overcooked. Thankfully, its fatty sweetness was still somewhat present and its dryness was aptly compensated by the very tasty braising sauce. The accompaniments were excellent and in fact much more appealing to us than the fish; the slices of bamboo shoots were sweet and crunchy, the shiitake mushroom was earthy and succulent, the shishito peppers were juicy and sweet, and slivers of ginger completed this dish on a refreshing spicy note.

(ALC)

ちゃんこ鍋

Seasonal seafood hotpot in a miso broth

My mum's ALC orders came in aptly together with our fish dishes. This was a large and sumptuous seafood hotpot in nothing more than a simple and tasty miso broth. With really high-quality seafood one hardly needs any further boosts; the delicacies can speak for themselves. There were prawns, scallops, clams, squid, crab legs, salmon, fish and cuttlefish balls, accompanied by a variety of mushrooms (enoki, shimeji and shiitake), silken tofu and vegetables (shungiku and napa cabbage). The seafood was all very fresh and sweet, with a firm springy bite, while the vegetables and mushrooms were absolutely crisp and succulent. It was all very wholesome and satisfying, and the portion was surprisingly generous - definitely suffices as a standalone main course, especially if you're not a big eater.

(ALC)

タラバ炒飯

King crab fried rice

To go with her hotpot, my mum had garlic fried rice with shredded Taraba king crab. Garlic fried rice is a staple of teppanyaki cuisine, and this small bowl here hit all the right spots - well seasoned, very aromatic, with just the right amount of charring (what we Chinese call 'wok hei') from the very hot counter on which the dishes are prepared, and most importantly for texture, the rice grains remained very well-defined but soft and chewy. The shredded chunks of king crab were a truly luxurious addition, with their sweet taste and succulent bite. This would fill her up really nicely.

(GTM)

揚げ物：ラングスティーンカタイフィ揚げ、イクラ、じゅんさい

Deep-fried dish: crispy langoustines wrapped in kataifi pastry, with seasoned salmon roe and a langoustine reduction, water shield

In the meantime, my menu continued with this rather eclectic dish. Kataifi is a traditional baked Greek dessert whose thin outer pastry strands resemble shredded wheat or angel hair pasta, and this pastry layer usually covers a sweetened filling of almonds. Here I had a savoury deep-fried adaptation with large whole langoustines in place of almonds, and what a wonderful result it was! As my teeth worked through each piece, the crisp and fragile kataifi pastry quickly gave way to sweet, succulent and springy pieces of langoustines, enhanced further by gelatinous and juicy balls of salmon roe, whose rich buttery saltiness also promptly exploded within the palate. Surrounding these two delightful morsels were a pool of rich and viscous langoustine sauce, as well as a sprinkling of fresh and gelatinous water shield. One could not have asked for a deep-fried dish with more indulgent flavours and textures, and yet which at the same time felt this well balanced.

(GTM)

肉料理：鹿児島産和牛リブアイ照り焼き、もやし、にんにく、筍、アスパラガス、椎茸、辛子

Meat dish: Kagoshima wagyu rib-eye with teriyaki sauce, bean sprouts, garlic, bamboo shoots, asparagus, shiitake mushroom and mustard grains

My menu continued with an excellent beef dish cooked teppanyaki style, served on a large houba (magnolia) leaf with vegetables. The chunks of beef were absolutely tender, melt-in-the-mouth and flavourful, with a great marbling that made it well suited to quick searing at high temperatures. A light brushing of sweet soy-based teriyaki sauce over the beef made it even more tasty, and bits of whole mustard grains aptly refreshed the palate. Accompanying the beef was an assortment of seasonal vegetables, cooked either on the hot grill or over a charcoal fire. The bean sprouts and bamboo shoots cooked quickly on the hot grill remained very sweet, juicy and crunchy, while the asparagus cooked over a charcoal fire acquired a lovely charred edge to its delicate natural sweetness, and a pleasant soft crunch. The shiitake, also cooked over a charcoal fire with garlic butter, was soft and succulent, and its deep earthiness was delightfully enhanced with really lovely aromas from the garlic butter. Soft whole-roasted garlic cloves, with a creamy texture and a surprisingly mild and sweet aroma, completed this picture of indulgence and perfection.

(SDC)

肉料理：鹿児島産和牛リブアイのアスパラ巻き、クレソン、マイクロトマト、胡麻ソース

Meat dish: Kagoshima wagyu rib-eye rolled with asparagus, organic watercress, micro tomatoes, sesame sauce

My partner had the same cut of wagyu for his meat dish, but instead of thick chunks, the meat was very thinly sliced and wrapped around stalks of asparagus. This was a most unusual but effective presentation; the rich fatty flavour and melt-in-the-mouth tenderness of the beef were well balanced by the refreshing sweetness and juicy crunch of the asparagus. The thin but hard outer skin of an asparagus stalk, which one usually has to scrape off before cooking, was not wasted; deep fried slivers garnishing the beef and asparagus rolls had a lovely crispy bite. On the side, a salad of spicy watercress, juicy and sweet micro tomatoes (a special variety even smaller than cherry tomatoes) and creamy but light sesame sauce completed this dish on a wholesome note.

(GTM)

冷やし梅素麺、ナメコ、紫蘇、ネギ、海苔、醤油、山葵

Chilled Japanese plum somen with soy sauce and shiso leaf, nameko mushrooms, shredded spring onion and seaweed, wasabi

After all that preceding indulgence, my final savoury course was an unusual but completely apt chilled noodle dish. This was somen (a thin Japanese noodle resembling angel hair pasta) infused with the lovely reddish-pink colour and the balanced sweet-sour flavour of plum. It would have made for great slurping if not for the small portion and refined atmosphere. The refreshing somen was further enhanced by minty bits of shiso leaf within, and made even more tasty with a touch of light soy sauce. Surrounding the somen was a sprinkling of nameko mushrooms, whose delicate earthiness and soft gelatinous bite complemented its taste and texture really effectively. Garnishings of shredded spring onion and dried seaweed contributed more flavours and aromas, while a touch of wasabi kept the dish feeling very light and crisp throughout.

(SDC)

桜海老天丼、木の芽．赤出汁、生湯葉

Crispy sakura shrimp tempura on rice with a Japanese pricklyash garnish, red miso soup with sheets of fresh tofu skin

More conventional was my partner's ending with rice and soup. The rice was topped with a generous amount of flash-fried sakura shrimp, caught mainly in Suruga Bay in Shizuoka Prefecture, and known for their succulent sweetness despite their diminutive size (yes, you do eat them shell and all). The fragrant prawns were aptly complemented by a spicy and peppery pricklyash (kinome) garnish, which both highlighted the freshness of the shrimp and kept the bowl of rice feeling very light and crisp. Amazingly, there was not a single hint of greasiness despite the frying process. The excellent rice was equally matched by an intense bowl of miso soup made with aged red miso, which possesses a much deeper umami compared to its more common white counterpart. The soup also contained sheets of fresh tofu skin, a famous product of Kyoto known as yuba. Yuba is one of my must-eats whenever I'm in Kyoto, and the dried version makes a great foodie souvenir; it is easy to transport and goes very well in soups and desserts too, though nothing beats the freshly-made yuba of course. The delicate, silky and slightly creamy texture of these sheets belied a remarkable full-bodied sweetness from soybeans. Having them combined with this flavourful miso soup was very gratifying indeed.

(GTM)

デザート：抹茶プリン、メープルシロップ、桜アイスクリーム、小豆

Dessert: matcha pudding with maple syrup, sakura ice cream and red beans

Dessert for me was a soft and creamy matcha pudding, not too sweet and full of the tea's characteristic refreshing astringency. Its toppings were rather sweeter, including an ice cream infused with an elegant floral aroma, a thick and chunky red bean paste, and finally a drizzle of maple syrup. I did feel that the maple syrup was somewhat unnecessary and a tad too robust for the relatively delicate flavour of the ice cream, but fortunately there wasn't too much of it. On the whole, I thought that this dessert was well put together and entirely agreeable.

(SDC)

デザート：山梨スタイル水餅、メープルシロップ、きな粉、栗クランブル、チョコレートクランチ

Dessert: Yamanashi-style water cake, served with maple syrup, roasted soybean powder, chestnut powder and a chocolate crunch snack

My partner's dessert was a unique offering of water cake, premiered by traditional sweet shop Kinseiken in Yamanashi Prefecture in the summer of 2013. In the original version, spring water from Mount Kaikoma in the southern Japanese Alps is solidified just enough with kanten (a natural seaweed gelatin akin to agar-agar) to last about 30 minutes before disintegrating at room temperature. This extremely delicate and crystal-clear confectionery is shaped like a large drop of water, and is also supposed to melt like water in the mouth immediately, hence its name. Mikuni's version looked extremely convincing but was definitely not as soft as we were expecting; in fact, it felt quite firm, almost like plain agar-agar with a certain bite. I've not actually had the original version at Kinseiken so it's difficult for me to judge if that is supposed to be the case - but going by pictures and descriptions on various Japanese websites, it would seem that Mikuni's version still has some way to go. (It is probably unfair to make comparisons, as we lack access to the spring water that defines this dessert.) In any case, Mikuni's water cake still tasted quite good - mildly sweet and very smooth on the throat especially when eaten with the maple syrup (Kinseiken uses brown sugar syrup). The generous amounts of relatively rich accompaniments were essential to give more body to this dessert, and amongst them I particularly enjoyed the chestnut powder for its deep earthy sweetness, and the chocolate crunch for its light crispy texture and vivid flavour.

(ALC)

Dessert: 'Orange sensation' - orange cream and marmalade, orange black sesame biscuit, blood orange sorbet and meringues with sugar, garnished with cress and fresh orange slices

My mum chose an orange-based dessert from the standard menu, and what a lovely conclusion it turned out to be; the possibilities for this fruit seemed almost endless. I was particularly attracted by the dessert's myriad textures. Upon a base of thick orange cream and chunky marmalade sat a crisp biscuit balancing the tanginess of orange with the intense nutty aroma of black sesame - a very unusual but effective combination which imparted a remarkable body and depth of flavour to this dessert despite the wafer-thin biscuit's fragility. A scoop of very light, refreshing and smooth blood orange sorbet was next, showcasing this premium orange's perfect balance between sweetness and acidity. Topping it all off were three small blood orange meringues with blood orange sugar, placed carefully on the sorbet; these were so airy and crisp, yet absolutely bursting with citrusy goodness. Garnishings of cress and real orange slices provided further refreshment and finished this dessert in a very clean and healthy manner.

We were still not quite done yet - after desserts the restaurant continued to offer my mum a birthday ice-cream on the house. This matcha ice cream was rich and authentic, with its characteristic bitter astringency present in full force. Both the ice cream and the restaurant's kind gesture were beyond reproach.

As part of the FAR Card privileges, one also gets a couple of cake vouchers a year, and we thought this would be the perfect occasion to use one of them. Two choices - either mango mousse or chocolate cake. I've tried both, and definitely prefer the mango mousse cake for its lush tropical flavour and rich moist texture. I found the chocolate cake which I had previously too dry, too cloying, and somewhat lacking in the real cocoa intensity department.

In summary, another enjoyable experience at this restaurant amidst fine food (save for a few misses in the SDC) and attentive service. We will be back!

'Epicure' lunch tasting menu at Jaan, Singapore

This afternoon, I finally found time to visit one restaurant that has been on my Singapore bucket list for the longest time. Jaan, a fine-dining establishment on the 70th floor of one of this country's top hotels, is popularly seen as a close competitor to Restaurant André. Hardly surprising, since Jaan had actually been started by André Chiang in 2008 (it was then called Jaan par André). Under André's leadership, Jaan made a meteoric rise to the World's Top 50 list, before André moved out of the hotel in 2010 to set up shop independently. The current head chef is Frenchman Julien Royer, who took over the reins in 2011, having previously worked with the legendary Michel Bras at 3-starred Le Suquet in Laguiole, and at 2-starred The Greenhouse in London. Jaan is currently in 11th place on Asia's Top 50 list.

For today's lunch I had specifically requested a window seat, boasting impressive views of the city's skyline. It has been some time since I came up this building! The name 'Jaan' derives from the Sanskrit word for 'bowl', and this small restaurant of 40 seats has a particularly eye-catching chandelier across the ceiling, made of Murano glass and silver in a contemporary style.

As with all fine-dining establishments, lunch here appears to be a much better deal than dinner. A quick 'budget' 3-course set lunch, with two options for each course, starts at $78++. However, in order to experience as many of chef Royer's signature dishes as possible, I chose the most extended 'Epicure' lunch tasting menu at $168++ for 7 courses, very good value considering that the same tasting menu at dinner (under the title 'Prestige') goes for $238++. There is an even longer 'Epicure' dinner as well, at $298++ for 10 courses, if you're feeling really flush.

The initial reception, from the lady on the ground floor who checked my reservation and showed me to the lift, to the front-of-house staff at Jaan who was waiting for me outside the lift, addressed me by name, and led me to the restaurant, to the service staff who showed me to my table, was extremely slick. Manager Frank Philippe also came over to exchange a few pleasantries just before the meal began. The atmosphere felt rather more formal than at Restaurant André, but nevertheless I recognise that certain restaurants do take some time getting warmed up to, especially for first-timers and single diners.

The meal began with a flurry of canapés served in quick succession, to drum up anticipation for the feast ahead.

'Snacking': saba tartare with horseradish snow and olive oil

I was pleasantly surprised to note local influences in the presentation of this delicate morsel, using a mini kueh pie tee shell. In place of the usual sweet and spicy fillings of dried shrimp and shredded turnip and carrot in the crispy shell, there was fresh and succulent saba tartare with a full-bodied oily taste, effectively balanced by the airy texture and clean spiciness of the horseradish snow, and given a slightly bitter and fruity touch by the blobs of olive oil caviar and chilli cress garnish. When taken all together in a single mouthful, the harmonious integration of textures and flavours was simply delightful; one couldn't have asked for a better kick-start to the palate.

(On the raised stone slab) pig trotter samosa with grain mustard and red onion; black sesame sponge with smoked eel, shallot and dill; walnut crackers with Cantal shavings

(On the wooden 'logs') lentil hummus and multigrain rye tuiles

Moments after I'd finished, an impressive array appeared in two parts. On a heavy stone slab were three more bite-sized delicacies, which were all very tasty and much heavier in flavour than the previous morsel. They also displayed the effective integration of various culinary cultures with Royer's French sensibilities. The Indian-inspired samosa had a thin and crisp pastry cover, filled to capacity with finely diced bits of pig trotter that were extremely succulent and creamy, due to high levels of collagen in this part of the pig (really good for your skin!). The full-bodied taste of trotter was aptly balanced by a spicy hint of mustard, and enhanced with a touch of curry powder and an aromatic sliver of red onion. The next was probably the most unusual combination; a soft and fluffy Japanese-inspired black sesame sponge acting as the base for firm and juicy cubes of smoked eel, with garnishes of shallot and dill. The nutty and aromatic sponge turned out to complement the deeply savoury eel really well (much like good ham and rocket together), with the garnishes further highlighting its smokiness. The last bit was probably the most traditionally French; the biscuit's characteristically deep nuttiness with a mild bitter tinge was a lovely foil for the abundant amount of cheese on top, with its buttery sweetness and earthy tones. The choice of Cantal must have been intentional, for it is the representative cheese of the Auvergne region of central France, in which Royer had spent a large part of his culinary apprenticeship.

Next, on two log-shaped wooden receptacles were a bottle of hummus, made with lentils from Saint-Flour in Auvergne and chestnut paste, and pieces of multigrain tuiles inserted in the wood to resemble fungi growing out of tree trunks. This was indeed quite a creative depiction of forest scenes in Auvergne, which must be really close to Royer's heart. The dark green hummus was really smooth and creamy, and whole lentils on top made for a lovely bite in each mouthful. The unusual addition of chestnut paste imparted a lovely deep earthy sweetness to the mixture, while the olive oil topping balanced its flavour with a delicate bitterness and fresh tangy edge, and enriched its texture even further. A touch of lemon juice and salt to taste completed this scrumptious and healthful dip. The paper-thin tuiles had a crisp and fragile texture that made for a lovely contrast with the thick and velvety hummus, whilst possessing a full-bodied nuttiness that complemented the rich taste of the hummus very well indeed.

Mushroom consommé with cep sabayon

I was filling up nicely, especially with that luxurious bottle of hummus, but we were not done with canapés yet! Just as I was scooping up the last bits of hummus, a small glass half-filled with mushroom consommé, deep-fried ceps and other herbs was served. A thick and creamy cep sabayon was then poured in by the server to fill up the glass - shame I didn't get a picture of the original presentation in time! This packed a real punch from the moment it arrived at my table - I can still smell those deep earthy aromas! The clear dark consommé was very well contrasted in texture and colour by its rich sabayon topping. Both were absolutely concentrated in flavour, and the bits of deep-fried ceps within provided a lovely fleshy crunch in addition to a subtle caramelised edge. This really was as potent as one gets with mushrooms, but I certainly wasn't complaining! I wondered what the main body of the meal would be like if the canapés were already at such a high level.

Finally bread and butter were served, signifying the start of the meal proper. There was only one type of bread (sourdough) which was very good - still warm at the table, aromatic, crisp on the outside and firm on the inside, just as it should be. What really won me over though was that cone of butter - I was informed by my server that it had been produced by none other than Bordier! Bordier's butters are rather difficult to procure even in France, and they are certainly not available in shops here - only at a few very privileged restaurants I presume. (In fact, this was the first time I was having it in Singapore.) This pure unsalted butter, made from the highest-quality milk sourced from Brittany and Normandy, was incredibly silky and creamy, with the subtle sweetness of fresh milk and a warm balanced taste on the whole. Spreading it on warm bread unleashed all its luscious aromas and made for one of the simplest and most pleasurable gourmet experiences imaginable. You wouldn't know how good butter can be until you've tried a Bordier.

(with sea salt on the side to taste, according to individual preferences)

(In the shell-like bowl) Hokkaido sea urchin, Oscietra caviar, cauliflower espuma and cubes, Obsiblue prawn jelly, touches of olive oil and gold leaf

(On the stone slab) Pain Poilâne with seaweed butter and chives

The first course arrived in two parts. The main component, a cold dish in a white shell-shaped bowl on ice, was the epitome of luxury - the combination of some of the most highly-regarded seafoods within gastronomic circles. There was a most sophisticated umami and elegant balance throughout this dish. The large, sweet and creamy lump of Hokkaido sea urchin (hidden by the generous amount of caviar) was perfectly complemented by the surrounding light cauliflower foam, and cauliflower cubes with a sweet juicy bite. This delicate overall sweetness was aptly enhanced by fresh and fruity drops of olive oil, and effectively balanced by the briny caviar topping. At the base of the bowl was a thin layer of jellied Obsiblue prawn consommé. One could not have guessed how much flavour this pale pink and seemingly bland jelly contained; it had a most astonishing sweetness with a delicate hint of brine, no doubt due to the superlative quality of the Obsiblue prawn. The only reservation I had about this dish was not having any real prawns within the jelly - shame that I could not experience its actual texture.

The Obsiblue prawn is an exceedingly rare blue species cultivated in New Caledonia, and becoming increasingly popular in recent years amongst top European chefs. The Obsiblue prawn is expensive to rear due to its much longer life cycle (9 months, compared to the usual shrimp's 3 months) and New Caledonia's cool waters, which make farming possible for only 7 to 8 months a year (as compared to tropical climates with perennial production). The trouble is all worth it though, as this prawn has been recognised for its superior flavour and texture. In fact, it is the only non-indigenous shrimp to be deemed fit for sashimi in Japan, no mean feat considering the extreme fussiness and conservative mindsets of top sushi chefs there.

The second part of this course was a single strip of Poilâne bread with seaweed butter and chives. This sourdough bread produced by the Poilâne family since the 1930s (with actual bakeries in Paris) is renowned for its thick, rough and crispy crust, with a dense but sufficiently airy interior, and a tangy flavour with hints of nuts and spices. This strip before me certainly didn't disappoint, and I was particularly enamoured by its complex lingering aftertaste. All that was needed to enhance this excellent bread were sparing amounts of seaweed butter and chives, for even deeper flavours and aromas. Not surprisingly, I really liked the butter for its lush creaminess and unusual umami.

'Beetroot collection' with artisanal burrata, horseradish cream, olive oil and honeycomb

The second course was particularly impressive for its creative techniques, showcasing one main ingredient in all possible ways. Aptly called 'beetroot collection', there were three varieties of the vegetable (in red, yellow and white) going through a variety of processes, including pickling (white disc), smoking (white slice), dehydration (red crumbs beneath the sorbet), and using the common red beetroot in meringues, a purée and a sorbet. In all these instances the beetroot's deep earthy sweetness came across in full force, with mild pickling and smoking contributing even more complex flavours. I also enjoyed the various textures of beetroot in this dish, from crisp delicate meringues to juicy raw slices and the refreshing smooth sorbet. Two dollops of soft and creamy burrata with a rich buttery and milky taste provided an essential warmth and body to this otherwise light and clean-tasting dish, while touches of horseradish cream and olive oil freshened the palate with a fruity and spicy kick. A further dash of liquid honeycomb, with its sticky and chewy texture, was also very enjoyable. On the whole, this was a most vibrant and appealing salad.

55' rosemary smoked organic egg with Ratte potato espuma and balls, chorizo iberico, chickpeas, crispy buckwheat and chives

This course arrived in a very dramatic manner indeed - a single egg with a large bunch of rosemary in a cardboard egg box placed on a wooden pedestal, from which a dense dry-ice smoke infused with the lovely aromas of rosemary emanated. In another glass bowl were arranged the components that would make up the main body of this course - potato, chorizo, chickpeas and buckwheat. My server then proceeded to lift the egg out of its box carefully and pour its lightly cooked and runny contents into the bowl. There was nothing to fault about this dish; the star of the show, the egg which had been smoked with rosemary at a low and tightly-controlled temperature for a good 55 minutes had completely absorbed the herb's sweet aromas, and maintained an absolutely soft white barely encasing a fragile and creamy yolk. The yolk's vivid orange colour was proof of its quality and organic origins, compared to most other yolks which are yellow. Mixing this runny egg with the rest of the bowl's contents made for a truly luxurious experience. The potato espuma was very smooth and rich, and I also loved the finely diced chorizo, which had a firm and moist texture, and an intense flavour with a nutty edge that is typical of cured meats made from top Iberico pigs (presumably due to their diet of acorns). The chorizo's nutty edge matched perfectly with the popped crispy buckwheat grains that were scattered throughout the bowl - I thought that the latter was an particularly ingenious touch within this glorified version of bacon and eggs. Both the buckwheat and the chickpeas provided a lovely crunch in each mouthful. This dish, while both familiar and comforting, contained various sophisticated twists that elevated it effectively to a level fit for gourmands, beyond all that initial pomp.

Crispy skin amadai, with Berkshire kurobuta belly, grilled romanesco broccoli, cauliflower, parsley purée, miso caramel, and garnishes of radicchio, cress and shiso buds

This Japanese-inspired dish showcased the wonderful qualities of amadai, a premium fish and a kaiseki chef's favourite, particularly in Kyoto where it is also called 'guji' (see this recent review of Nakamura, which prepares guji the traditional way by grilling it with sake, and leaving the scales and bones on). Here at Jaan, the fish had been grilled to tender perfection, with a very smooth flesh that was flaky and slightly oily, similar to cod, but much sweeter and with a more elegant and balanced taste. The amadai's beautiful orange-red skin was remarkably crisp, as were its large paper-thin scales that had been carefully scraped out and deep-fried separately before being placed back on the fish. But that was not all; the lovely chunk of Berkshire kurobuta belly on which the fish sat had been grilled and glazed with a lovely miso caramel sauce that complemented the sweetness of both the fish and the meat perfectly while contributing a deep overall umami. The pork belly was utterly succulent and melt-in-the-mouth, with a rich flavour but still a good fat-to-lean ratio, so that it didn't feel the least overwhelming compared to the more delicate fish. It is somewhat unusual and challenging to combine fish and meat in the same dish, but the kitchen here achieved an effective and convincing result. The accompaniments provided a welcome freshness and healthy balance, consisting of parsley purée for its crisp and piquant aromas (due to the high levels of volatile oils in parsley) and detoxifying properties (parsley contains lots of antioxidants, vitamins and chlorophyll), broccoli and cauliflower for their delicate crunch and sweetness (plus I really liked the charred hint in the grilled broccoli), and the garnishings for their clean, spicy and minty finish. Of all the courses in today's lunch, I also felt that this dish had been the most beautifully plated, with a keen sense of line, colour and proportion, just as any great artwork would be.

Hay roasted Bresse pigeon breast, with a leg confit, pigeon jus, Landes foie gras, Hokkaido white corn, kale, Savoy cabbage, black trumpet mushrooms, a crispy tuile and touch of cumin

The final savoury course was first briefly presented to me in a mussel pot - a whole roasted pigeon with large cloves of roasted garlic, sitting in a bunch of hay. The beautiful golden brown roasted colour and the incredible aromas that emanated from the still-smoking hay really heightened my anticipation of this dish. The whole pot was then taken back into the kitchen, to be swiftly carved up and plated as shown. Truth be told, I was a little disappointed at how little meat there was on the plate (surely that's less than half the pigeon!) but nonetheless it was excellent while it lasted. The breast meat was very tender and moist, and its deep gamey flavour was well matched by the roasting juices as well as a small piece of creamy, velvety and musky pan-seared duck foie gras. The golden brown skin had a slightly crisp texture and a lovely charred edge. The leg confit was even more succulent in texture and richer in taste - I just wished there would be more of it! Complementing this indulgent meat dish were sweet and juicy grains of Hokkaido corn and soft poached leaves of kale (a superfood chock-full of antioxidants) and Savoy cabbage (a premium cabbage variety favoured by top chefs, known for being sweet and tender even when raw). Black trumpet mushrooms with their intense earthiness and a touch of cumin with its sweet and spicy aromas enhanced the full-bodied meat very effectively. Finally, a feather-light tuile with a delicate crispy bite provided a lovely contrast to the generally heavy textures and flavours of this dish. This was 15 minutes of unadulterated pleasure.

'Tropical': coconut foam, kaffir lime zest, mango & passion fruit sorbet, on a base of vanilla panna cotta

The transition into dessert was marked by an excellent mixture of tropical delights - at the base, a rich and velvety panna cotta bursting with the warm sweetness of real vanilla, balanced by a smooth and light sorbet combining the refreshing acidity and vivid aroma of passion fruit with the intense nectar of mango. At the top was a dense coconut foam with an elegant sweetness and balmy toasty aroma, punctuated by crisp astringent hints from the bits of lime zest scattered throughout. A lovely familiar way indeed to prepare the palate for the luxurious main dessert!

Choconuts 'Grand Cru': tastes and textures of chocolate, with hazelnuts

The French take their chocolate very seriously, and this dessert, made purely out of it, was the best proof of this adoration. The dessert consisted of several types of Valrhona dark and milk chocolates, processed in myriad forms and textures that complemented all their unique flavour profiles. Valrhona, a quintessentially French brand, was one of the first chocolatiers in the world to describe their chocolates like fine wine, hence the 'Grand Cru' title indicating the premium origins of their cocoa beans. Dark chocolate, which made up the majority of the dessert, came in the forms of a thick cream, a rich and smooth ice-cream with a dusting of crushed roasted hazelnuts, an airy and velvety mousse, a fluffy piece of sponge, a disc mixed with hazelnuts, and paper-thin leaves. Milk chocolate was featured both as very light and crisp meringue sticks, as well as a dense cream base for the plating of some of the other components. A couple of whole roasted hazelnuts coated in caramel completed this picture of chocolatey copiousness. I must have been in a slight food coma after this due to the sheer intensity and headiness of it all, but no regrets. A must for all chocolate lovers!

Cucumber sorbet, apple granité, marinated celery cubes and mint purée

Fortunately I didn't remain in that chocolate-induced stupor for too long. I was led back to reality by this sophisticated palate cleanser, which concluded the meal on a very clean and airy note. The cucumber sorbet struck me first by its consummate effervescence. It was a real breath of fresh air; I'd never had something quite so effortlessly weightless and transient. The apple granité on which it sat had an elegant crunch and sweetness. Nestled within the granité were remarkably tender and juicy celery cubes, with very little of their usual fibrous texture and bitterness. Mild pickling in syrup had added a lovely sweet edge to their warm anise-like flavour. At the base of it all was a small pool of mint purée; one can't go wrong finishing an excellent tasting menu with its cool spiciness. I felt balanced and whole again.

(On the 'log') rosemary smoked lollipop, canelé, passion fruit & banana marshmallow

(In the tray) mushroom macaron with chocolate ganache and bits of feuilletine, passion fruit caramel

I was really quite satiated by now but who can resist the final sweet bites that usually follow a gastronomic experience like this? These lovely mignardises arrived in two parts that once again reminded us of rustic country scenes in Auvergne; on the wooden 'log', I particularly loved the iced lollipop, which was made up of a small ball of rosemary chocolate ice-cream coated in a thin chocolate shell, put on a stick and placed in a small bottle with dry ice and actual stalks of rosemary. Similar to the smoked egg course, but on a much smaller scale, a thick smoke carrying the pleasant sweet aromas of rosemary was emitted from the bottle, making both visual and olfactory impacts. The canelé had a thick but absolutely crisp caramelised crust, concealing a soft and fluffy baked custard centre - what a lovely combination of textures! Most canelés I've tried had over-baked crusts that were too thick and hard, while their insides were too dense and sweet, but this hit all the right notes. The marshmallow was slightly spongy, with an effective balance in taste between the comfortable sweetness of banana and the vivid tartness and aroma of passion fruit.

In the small tray with twigs were placed two more morsels, one of them a passion fruit caramel that was not the least cloying; the rich, buttery and mildly salted taste of caramel had again been tempered by the astringency of passion fruit. Remarkably, there were also no traces of this soft and chewy bonbon stuck to the teeth (an all-too-familiar occurrence); everything just melted away smoothly in the palate. Finally, the most memorable confectionery of the day, a mushroom macaron with chocolate ganache, successfully matched the deep earthiness of mushrooms with the oaky intensity of dark chocolate. Bits of hazelnut feuilletine within the ganache provided further body and sweetness. As my teeth sank through successive layers of the macaron, the crisp shells, rich ganache and crispy feuilletine also made for a most striking textural effect. I should mention that it is extremely unusual to find macarons in which the sweet-savoury boundary is blurred (one notable exception being Pierre Hermé, who is famous for his oft-unorthodox combinations involving various herbs, spices and flowers etc.), so here I had a glimpse of the pastry chef's creativity and brilliance.

When I made the reservation I had asked to greet Royer at some point during the lunch, and I did remind the staff about this when I got there. However, my request was apparently forgotten and by the time I finished and asked again, he had already left the kitchen to attend a meeting within the hotel, so that was a slight disappointment. Notwithstanding this lapse, the service was otherwise entirely professional, if a little aloof at times. Ling, the young lady who served me most of the time today, was relatively affable and chatty, and I enjoyed listening to her thoughts about some of the dishes. She also informed me that Royer will be leaving Jaan soon, to launch his own restaurant at Singapore's upcoming National Gallery, scheduled to open in July. Given the quality of today's cuisine, I have no doubt that Royer's new restaurant will become one of the most popular openings of the year in the local fine-dining scene. I also await future developments at Jaan with bated breath, especially after Royer's current sous-chef takes over the reins.