Grand Tasting Tour (Autumn) at Mikuni, Singapore

Thanks to a new dining card my partner got recently, we would be able to eat at fine restaurants within the Fairmont and Swissôtel hotels in Singapore for an impressive 50% discount, on any day of the week for both lunch and dinner. There was one Japanese restaurant I had been eyeing for the longest time, but would probably not pay full price for; from personal experience most fine Japanese restaurants in Singapore are overpriced, due to the necessity of importing fresh fish and other produce from Japan - you would be better off buying a plane ticket there for an intense fix instead, like we usually do twice a year. Also, it is close to impossible to match Japanese-style hospitality in Japanese restaurants overseas, even expensive ones; that level of pride in ingredients and their execution, as well as in service as a fully worthy profession, is largely lost upon non-Japanese people. However, for half the price and a tasting menu with all sorts of promising imported seasonal produce from Japan, there was very little reason to hesitate, so here we were at Mikuni restaurant in Fairmont Hotel this evening.

Like many other fine Japanese restaurants in Singapore, Mikuni offers a diverse range of cuisines from the usual raw dishes such as sushi and sashimi to cooked food such as teppanyaki (hot plate dishes) and robatayaki (charcoal-grilled dishes). (Specialisation in one type of cuisine is not a common occurence here as it is in Japan, except for ramen places.) Fresh seafood and produce are regularly imported from various parts of Japan. Customers may choose to sit at separate live stations for each of these cuisines, or at a generic seating area if they are having a tasting menu or a mixture of items from the à la carte menu.

There are two tasting menus at dinner, a more elaborate 7-course Grand Tasting Tour menu or a smaller 5-course Seasonal Menu with simpler ingredients. We opted for the former, with dishes designed by Executive Chef Moon Kyung-Soo, who happens to be Korean, not Japanese, but we were not too bothered by that as long as the quality of ingredients and standard of cooking would be more or less commensurate with the prices charged.

We were seated in the front dining room of the restaurant with blue lighting; not sure what was with the bizzare choice of colour (presumably to create a modernised 'chic' atmosphere?) but it did seem somewhat incongruent with the understated aesthetics and natural colour schemes of typical fine Japanese restaurant settings. Thankfully, this was not too disruptive to the overall atmosphere. As expected, the restaurant was quite full on a Friday evening, and the environment was actually quite convivial and informal. The plush leather seats were also a joy in which to sink and relax whilst enjoying the food.

While waiting for the first course, we were offered some savoury crackers with sprinklings of nori (dried seaweed) and other spices and seasonings. These were very light, crisp and tasty, perfect for awakening the tastebuds to all the fine food ahead of us.

お通し： 北海道毛蟹、 キャビア、 胡瓜、 しめじ、 柚子ゼリー ・ 京都産カブ豆腐、 北海道産雲丹、 胡麻ソース

Starter (in 2 parts): Hokkaido hairy crab, caviar, cucumber, shimeji mushroom and yuzu jelly; Kyoto turnip tofu and Hokkaido sea urchin with sesame sauce.

What a revelation from the beginning. The mesmerising fresh aroma of yuzu wafted to our noses as the plates were set in front of us. This course was a feast for the eyes as well as the palate. It was very exquisitely plated in a real hairy crab shell, and I almost couldn't bear to eat it... then I started and it was gone all too soon! The sweet and succulent mound of shredded crab meat was very effectively accentuated by delicate lumps of yuzu jelly, and enhanced subtly with a savoury and earthy edge by small amounts of plump caviar and shimeiji. Paper-thin slices of cucumber in the mix further highlighted the crispness of this dish, with their juicy crunch. An absolutely delightful way to start.

This was the second part of our starter, tofu topped with fresh lumps of sea urchin, dried seaweed and dressed with sesame sauce. The dressing happens to be a popular Japanese condiment (it's one of my favourites too), and one usually can't go very wrong with it - but unfortunately in this case, its creaminess and intense roasted nutty flavour overwhelmed everything else in this dish. I'm really not sure that this dressing was the best choice, given the dish's general tone of refinement and subtlety. The sea urchin was a particular shame as it was quite clear that this was of very high quality - extremely sweet and plump to the palate when savoured in isolation. There would have been no need to mask it with such a strong dressing for any reason. I was certainly expecting a little more precision and balance in the combination of flavours and ingredients.

季節の刺身：大トロ、金目鯛、カンパチと塩昆布

Sashimi: tuna belly, red snapper, yellowtail with salted kelp.

Very elegantly presented atop a small bucket of ice, this tasted every bit as good as it looked. The tuna belly had a lovely melt-in-the-mouth texture and rich fatty flavour, the bream was lean, firm and mildly sweet, while the yellowtail topped with finely chopped pieces of salted kelp had an unusually deep umami. The wasabi was disappointing; I would have expected it to be fresh and subtle at a restaurant of such pricing and ambience, but despite its natural fibrous look and light green colour it was piercingly spicy (probably with cheaper horseradish substitutes in the mix). The lily bulb and shiso buds and shoots were a very pleasant touch though, with their fresh and delicate sweet taste.

焼物：甘鯛塩焼き、畳鰯、京都産南瓜、茗荷、梅干し

Grilled dish: sweet sea bream shioyaki, tatami-iwashi (baby sardines laid out and dried while entwined in a single layer to form a large and crisp mat-like sheet), grilled Kyoto pumpkin, pickled ginger flower and umeboshi.

The fillet of sea bream grilled with salt didn't disappoint with its tender, moist, and tasty flesh, and it was my first time eating fish with the scales still on (!) - these numerous lightly caramelised bits had however been done to crisp perfection, and made for a lovely textural contrast with the flesh. For the accompaniments, the Kyoto pumpkin really stood out with its sweetness and rich texture, while the juicy cured plum provided a refreshing finish with its delicate balance of sweetness and astringency. A truly stellar dish!

揚げ物：タラバ蟹のおかき粉揚げ、銀杏、沢蟹

Deep-fried dish: crispy snow crab legs in glutinous rice flour batter, ginkgo nuts, whole Sawagani crab, with sea salt and lime.

This was comfort food pure and simple. The batter, like in all good and authentic Japanese deep-frying, was wonderfully light and crisp, allowing the nature of the ingredients beneath to fully shine through. We hardly needed the sea salt and lime. The crab legs were extremely succulent and sweet, while the ginkgo nuts (a common winter produce in Japan and China, well loved for its antioxidant and medicinal properties) combined a rich fleshy texture with a fruity bitterness akin to that of top-grade olive oil. The small Sawagani crab to be eaten whole, shell and all, was somewhat more challenging; it was still very tasty of course, but very sharp and prickly in the mouth - we had to chew with caution.

肉料理：鹿児島産和牛のすき焼き、フォアグラ、九州産トマト、茄子

Meat dish: Kagoshima wagyu sukiyaki, with foie gras, tofu, Kyushu tomato and eggplant.

Possibly the most luxurious hotpot one could ever imagine! The combination of tender and succulent slices of beef with smooth and creamy chunks of foie gras and eggplant, all within an intense beef broth, could have been too rich for some, but I certainly wasn't complaining. This dish arrived at the table already boiling, so we had to start to eat it quickly, or risk the beef slices becoming too tough, and the foie gras disintegrating into an oily mess in the broth. Anyway, I think this would have been even more satisfying and warming if we had been eating it in the midst of a real winter!

御飯：天然鯛とイクラの炊き込み御飯、木の芽、味噌汁

Rice: sea bream cooked with rice, topped with fresh salmon roe and kinome (Japanese pricklyash), and served with miso soup.

Traditionally, rice and miso soup signify the end of the savoury courses in a Japanese tasting menu. Here, no expense and effort were spared in preparing an apparently simple dish; the rice had been cooked with slices of sea bream and its stock, resulting in something unexpectedly fragrant and tasty. Topping the rice was the most generous amount of salmon roe I had ever seen (such a vibrant colour!), and twigs of kinome for additional peppery aromas. I could hardly find fault with this premium combination per se, but I couldn't help but feel that this rice dish had been overcooked on the whole, which was disappointing for a restaurant at this level and price point. The slices of bream in the middle were most obviously dry and tough - presumably really drained of all their juices whilst cooking with the rice, which itself also felt a little dry, though hardly as bad as the fish. Thankfully, the smooth and briny salmon roe was there to moisten and lubricate, being added only after, and not during, cooking the rice. This could and should have been the perfect rice dish, but wasn't - a real shame indeed.

デザート：静岡産マスクメロン、紫蘇シャーベット、ぜんざい

Dessert: Shizuoka musk melon, shiso sherbet with popping candy, and hot Japanese red bean soup with a rice cake.

We were advised to eat this platter of treats in an anticlockwise order, starting from the fruit in front. The juxtaposition of the traditional with the foreign/contemporary was a lovely idea indeed. First up, the musk melon from a famed agricultural region, which was every bit as sweet and juicy as one would expect. Then, an icy mixture of finely crushed shiso leaves and bits of popping candy (more a granité than a sherbert, really) refreshed and stimulated the palate like no other - my partner described his first experience with popping candy as 'ticklish' in the mouth, not entirely comfortable but highly amusing (and prior to this I deliberately didn't want to reveal how it would feel like!). Finally, and perhaps most disappointingly, a lukewarm and somewhat watery red bean soup with a piece of rice cake that was again so dry, tough and tasteless that it was pretty obvious the latter had been taken out of a freezer and unsuccessfully reheated. I mean, how could such a high-end Japanese restaurant have gotten the most traditional and basic of desserts wrong? Not the best way to finish this tasting menu, I must say.

Fortunately, the petit fours that our lovely waitress offered after the meal redeemed the previous portion of the dessert. They came from this impressive jewellery box-like mini chest of drawers, each drawer with a different morsel - of course I had to ask for at least two of everything..! On the plate below: raspberry cookie, chocolate cookie, sesame biscotti, yuzu marshmallow, milk chocolate, dark chocolate, candied orange zest and chocolate-coated orange zest - yum!

The staff here seem mainly Korean and Filipino, with a only a few locals and Japanese as far as I could tell. I did find the Filipina who came by to refill our teacups every now and then easier to understand than the Korean waitress who was our main server for the evening, but I must say that the service was always polite and friendly all-round.

I definitely felt that that the progression of courses could have been better paced on the kitchen's part; some dishes arrived immediately after we had finished (or even while we were still finishing!) the preceding course. The last thing you want in a fine meal is to feel rushed through it; we had started at a very reasonable hour, well far from the restaurant's closing time, I should add.

All in all this dinner still hasn't quite changed my mind about paying full price for premium Japanese food in Singapore, but for half the cost it is as good a deal as any lover of fine Japanese cuisine, not based in Japan, could hope for - despite the few misses in execution this evening, I definitely see us returning for the occasional indulgence from now on.

Lunch with guest chefs Karl and Rudolf Obauer at Dolce Vita, Singapore

Having been notified a week ago by Jan, the manager of Dolce Vita, that there would be a pair of visiting chef brothers for the weekend, with a cooking style similar to Thomas Bühner's (who had visited back in April), I booked myself in for lunch this afternoon. Karl and Rudolf Obauer run the 2-starred Restaurant-Hotel Obauer in the small town of Werfen near to Salzburg in Austria, and despite having been around for much longer than, and being on the same level on the Michelin Guide as, Steirereck in Vienna (which I've visited twice whilst living in Europe), it is strangely not quite as well-known internationally. A matter of marketing by the St. Pellegrino Top 50 list as well as location, perhaps? I must confess that I had not heard of the Obauer brothers myself prior to their visit, but nevertheless I was intrigued enough after some brief online research to want to drop by and discover their cooking for myself.

The meal started off with bread and butter, and compared to the generic (but still good) Italian offerings of this restaurant during Bühner's visit, these felt immediately more representative of the region from which the Obauers hail; the multi-grain flatbread with pumpkin seeds (one of Austria's most famous ingredients) and the cottage cheese (also popular in Austria, where it is known as 'Topfen') dip infused with local alpine herbs certainly struck a chord with my tastebuds.

To my pleasant surprise, an impressive platter of amuse-bouches was then set before me. There were no such extras during Bühner's visit, so I had not been expecting them. These little gems were all familiar in their own ways and brought back delightful memories of dining out in Austria. I was advised to eat them from right to left.

First up, there were chickpea with botargo and olive oil, and veal tartare with a touch of lemon, olive oil and capers. The chickpea purée was absolutely smooth and rich in texture with a mild taste. It was aptly enhanced by a generous pool of fresh, fruity and slightly bitter olive oil, while a touch of grated botargo contributed slightly deeper flavours. On the other hand. the rich taste of veal (the meat used for making the popular Viennese schnitzels) was very well-balanced by the sharp lemon juice and capers, while olive oil made the raw meat feel even more tender and succulent. These were very enjoyable indeed.

Next was sheep's yoghurt with zucchini and pumpkin seed oil. The freshness of yoghurt blended with zucchini, contrasted by the deep nuttiness of pumpkin seed oil (my favourite Austrian culinary product!) is something that needs to be tried to be believed. This was simply heaven in a shot glass, and it was so satisfying to be able to relive those wonderful moments in Austria of tasting pumpkin seed oil in everything from salads to soups to savoury dishes and even desserts. Small fresh chunks of zucchini on the surface contributed a further juicy crunch.

Finally, Parmesan jelly with sea salt, and homemade lamb sausage all the way from Werfen! The latter had been, according to Jan, brought into Singapore in very small amounts due to some import restriction, so we the customers were truly fortunate to have been able to savour this unique delicacy. It was very well-seasoned, without the strong gamey smell that often plagues this meat, and firm but moist in texture. The tiny cube of Parmesan jelly was surprisingly more spongy/marshmallow-like than gelatinous in texture, and its rich taste was further deepened by a sprinkling of sea salt on top. Though not immediately apparent, these two morsels packed a real punch.

First course: cauliflower jelly with piquillo pepper sauce, smoked beef from Salzburg, eggplant ragout, goose liver and alpine herbs.

The cauliflower jelly was in fact more like an aspic, with real cauliflower encased in savoury gelatin. The two large chunks were very crisp to the palate, with the natural sweetness of cauliflower combined effectively with a delicate pickled taste. The surrounding piquillo pepper sauce contributed more sweetness and really brightened up the dish with its vivid colour. A sprinkling of alpine herbs contributed lovely fresh aromas. The other accompaniments were somewhat more luxurious: goose foie had a remarkably mild taste (compared to its more common duck counterpart) but a very smooth creamy texture, while the eggplant ragout had a sweet and nicely seasoned taste, with a delightfully rich mouthfeel. Thin slices of smoked beef with a firm texture and deep flavour provided this otherwise generally light and clean-tasting dish with further body. With its multitude of textures and flavours, this dish was the perfect starter and stimulus for the tastebuds.

Second course: lake char lasagna with basil, rosemary, trompette de la mort mushrooms and Grüner Veltliner sauce.

This was comfort food at its most luxurious. Underneath a huge and succulent piece of fish, black trumpet mushrooms with their deep earthy taste were plentifully stuffed between the layers of the lasagna, while a huge basil leaf on top and crushed herbs at the bottom provided some really lovely intense aromas. The only unsatisfactory part of this lasagna was its hard and dry pasta base, which can happen as a result of direct contact with the bottom of the baking dish. A rich Grüner Veltliner sauce with olive oil, poured generously over the fish, completed this otherwise stellar course. Grüner Veltliner is of course the white wine of Austria and her renowned Heurigens (countryside taverns), and its fresh and crisp nature, infused into the sauce, was the perfect complement for the delicate flavour of the fish.

Third course: celery-saffron soup with steamed pike.

The clean sweetness of celery combined with the subtle hay-like aroma of saffron to produce a soup that was remarkably light, yet with an interesting and complex flavour that could best be described as deeply savoury with a bitter/sourish edge. There weren't any actual pieces of celery or threads of saffron present, yet their respective flavour and colour had already been fully infused into the soup. A garnish of shiso sprouts (my favourite Japanese herb) further enlivened the soup with their distinctive minty aroma. Halfway through the soup, a small fillet of pike emerged, a truly sumptuous addition to an already outstanding soup; its fresh, delicate taste and absolutely soft and smooth texture were a pure delight.

Fourth course: saddle of lamb with parsley and anchovy paste, sweet potato roasted with orange zest, and a lamb reduction mixed with vinaigrette. Served with a side of sour cream radish with pumpkin seed oil.

The lamb was roasted to tender and succulent perfection with a utterly crisp skin reminiscent of the best Cantonese roasts (that last bit is what most Western roasting methods don't get right, in my opinion). What really impressed me, though, were the accompaniments that kept this rich meat feeling extraordinarily balanced and easy on the gut through every mouthful. The parsley and anchovy paste provided both lovely fresh aromas as well as more intense flavours, while the lamb reduction with vinaigrette was tasty yet well-tempered with an astringent edge. Even the roasted sweet potato didn't feel heavy or starchy in the least, due to the infusion of crisp and tangy orange flavours. The other star of this main course, radish marinated with sour cream and topped with my beloved pumpkin seed oil, was possibly the best and most authentic Austrian side dish one could have asked for. I really didn't want this course to end!

Fifth course (cheese): alpine 'pizza' with sour cream, onions and cubed smoked beef. Served with a side of mixed salad with pumpkin seed oil.

After the superb main course, this felt rather underwhelming. To be sure, the 'pizza' crust was extremely thin and crisp, and its toppings made for a very tasty, balanced and aromatic combination, but I failed to see how this had transcended the standards of any above-average Italian restaurant kitchen. The sprinkling of alpine herbs, presumably to give the pizza a more authentic edge, was also somewhat futile as the sheer pungence of onions had all but drowned out the aromas of these subtle herbs. The same could be said of the pumpkin seed oil supposedly present in the salad - I simply couldn't taste it at all, which was strange considering its strong characteristic flavour. Perhaps there was too little of it, or the spicy and nutty rocket and cress leaves which made up most of the salad had overpowered the taste of the oil. In any case, this course was pleasant and scrumptious enough, but also lacking in a distinctive character.

At this point, the older of the two brothers, Karl, was going round every table to greet customers (something that didn't happen with Bühner during his visit in April, I should mention), and of course I didn't miss the opportunity to find out more about his restaurant, its location as well as possible links to Heinz Reitbauer of Steirereck. As it turns out, both are long-standing family restaurants whose closely-knit relationship goes way back to the late 1980s; Reitbauer actually worked with the Obauer family for two years, and Karl's nephew in turn also trained as a waiter and cook in Steirereck before returning to the family establishment in Werfen. Karl spoke of his compatriot and competitor without the slightest tinge of professional rivalry - a humble and generous character indeed. Also, as an aside, the Obauer brothers had met Bühner in Paris recently on the occasion of the awards ceremony of Le Grand Tables du Monde - the world of gastronomy is smaller than one would think!

Karl also mentioned that their family restaurant is just minutes on foot from Werfen train station, south of Salzburg, nestled within a mountain valley. Werfen also has the biggest natural ice cave in the world (Eisriesenwelt) and a round trip on the designated walking route takes a good 4 hours. The town is also less well-known as one of the filming sites of the popular musical 'The Sound of Music', and I must have passed Werfen at least once whilst on one of those touristy excursions, though I just never took special notice of its name!

I was then invited to meet his brother Rudolf at work in the open kitchen, and we also exchanged a few pleasantries. Rudolf seemed somewhat more reticent compared to his elder brother but one thing was for sure: both men were very warm, friendly and down-to-earth, and I would love to experience their hospitality again at the actual family restaurant someday. (I might be biased though as we were communicating in German, and they were both very pleased and amazed by my unexpected fluency in their native language!)

Back to the food after this nice little diversion -

Sixth course (dessert): apple strudel on white chocolate cream, chamomile ice cream, cottage cheesecake, poached apples with candied orange zest, and blackcurrant coulis.

What could be a more Austrian way to end a meal than having both apple strudel and 'Topfen' on the same plate? The apple strudel here was unusually shaped in the form of an Italian cannoli with powdered sugar instead of a cake-like layered flaky pastry. The mushy semi-puréed apple filling was very rich and juicy, an absolute delight when paired with the crispy pastry wrapping, the buttery goodness of white chocolate cream and the warm sweet taste of vanilla crème anglaise. The generously-portioned cottage cheesecake was, by contrast, remarkably light in texture and had a refreshing soured taste. Topped with apple cubes poached in syrup and tangy orange zest, this was very satisfying in its own way. Finally, the soothing floral aromas and smooth apple-like sweetness of the chamomile ice cream completed this dessert on a fresh and elegant note.

Petit fours followed, and while waiting for these Karl had also placed a couple of cookbooks published by him and his brother on my table for my perusal. I will probably never be able to replicate their dishes at such a high level, but it is always tantalising to see what is possible by virtue of imagination and inspiration. I noted that they take pride in obtaining ingredients from their local farmers - you can never go wrong with that!

Hazelnut mousse infused with coffee (in the cone), Parmesan cracker, lime and Hendrick's gin marshmallow. Loved the aroma of coffee infused into the rich nutty mousse, as well as the freshness and astringency of the marshmallow - perfect for perking up after a sumptuous meal.

Chocolate biscuit with chocolate and mushroom cream, peach and beetroot jelly with a slice of fresh peach. The chocolate and mushroom cream was particularly memorable for its combination of deep earthiness and intense cocoa flavour - a very unusual pairing that was surprisingly effective. The peach and beetroot pairing was somewhat similar - sweet and also with an earthy edge.

Chocolate sponge cake with blackberry, rich and moist. Lovely.

This had been such an enjoyable afternoon of great food and hospitality. Towards the end of the meal I also had a nice long chat with Jan the manager about his life in Singapore so far. He happens to be German so that might explain all these visiting chefs from German-speaking countries so far. Anyway, I do hope to see an Italian chef featured in an Italian restaurant in the near future - Massimo Bottura anyone?

(N.B. The only thing I would like to see improved for now is the table setting - not sure if you readers have noticed it from my photos, but a crumpled tablecloth does look quite messy and is one of my pet peeves in a restaurant.)

But back to the main focus of today - the sense of pride in, and desire to showcase the best of, Austrian cooking was evident throughout the meal, and my only regret was not having discovered this restaurant earlier while I was still in Europe. I'm sure I'll see the Obauer brothers again in Werfen one day!

Lunch at Restaurant André, Singapore

After a pretty long break from fine restaurants due to work commitments, I finally made time for lunch today at Restaurant André. The restaurant is the brainchild of Taiwan-born André Chiang, who had trained in France under giants such as Pierre Gagnaire and Pascal Barbot. Upon his return to Asia in 2008, he first made his mark in Singapore's gastronomic scene as the former head chef of Jaan restaurant in Swissôtel The Stamford, pushing it to international attention by making the St. Pellegrino World's Top 50 list in 2010, before deciding to set up shop in this small space just next to Majestic Hotel in the Chinatown area. His own flagship has since garnered numerous awards, including Best Restaurant in Singapore at the inaugural St. Pellegrino Asia's Top 50 list in 2013, and the Chefs' Choice Award this year.

Upon arrival, I was struck by the presence of an olive tree. As the maître d' Alain would later tell me, this is the only real living olive tree outside Europe! In this weather it is obviously non-fruiting, but it is indeed a fitting tribute to Chiang's French culinary roots, and a lovely gesture that transports diners immediately to another part of the world.

Waiting lounge

Private dining area / chef's table

Main dining room

The restaurant seems very popular amongst Japanese people, and I was literally surrounded by them on this occasion. They even have a Japanese sommelier on the service team. As you will see from the dishes very soon, this is perhaps not too surprising considering that the cooking often displays very strong Asian (particularly, Japanese) influences. Much of the fish and seafood is also imported daily from Japan, presumably for their quality. Chiang himself is a champion of nouvelle cuisine which advocates light, creative and beautiful dishes with strong regional influences, made only with fresh ingredients and natural seasonings, not dissimilar to the kaiseki aesthetic.

The rest of the staff is pretty international too, and with very impressive backgrounds; Alain is of Brazilian-French parentage and grew up and trained in France at top restaurants such as Pierre Gagnaire and Guy Savoy, while general manager Stepan is Czech and had been responsible for running the now-defunct Gordon Ramsay outpost in Prague before relocating to Singapore.

The main dining space was very elegantly appointed yet retained a charming shophouse feel to it. I felt at easy very quickly in this intimate and cosy environment.

Adorable ceramic doves by the window!

Chiang is best known for his 'Octaphilosophy' dinner menu, a tribute to his personal and culinary heritage, featuring eight courses that highlight one characteristic each (for example, 'Texture' or 'Terroir'). Lunch is however much cheaper at less than half the price for 5 courses, which is a good idea if you're just wanting to test out the place without breaking the bank. When making the reservation, I had requested for an extended lunch menu at a small supplement.

It is worth mentioning that only tasting menus are available for both lunch and dinner (i.e. no à la carte). Also, with two notable exceptions (which you will see later), no two dishes are the same from one day to the next, as Chiang fixes the menu only during the morning before the restaurant opens, depending on what he gets sent for the day. I do love this element of surprise, but only in the hands of a good chef!

The meal started off with an apt flamboyance; a whole array of canapés was served in quick succession, and this proliferation of colours and textures was very impressive indeed.

'Snacking'

These were thin crispy films of Japanese purple yam (beni-imo), Swiss chard and scallop. Note that I called them 'films', not 'crisps' or 'chips'. I have no idea how the kitchen achieved this, but the feather-light and translucent pieces were just bursting with incredible flavours and aromas. I loved especially the deep umami of the scallop one. Each bite was so brief and ephemeral, yet more than sufficient to tantalise the tastebuds.

Next came two stronger bites: chicken masala cracker with mint cream and cep mushrooms, and a disc consisting of various textures of onion (jellied, puréed and caramelised). These distinctively Indian morsels were very tasty. The cracker had an intense spiced flavour that was aptly enhanced by an earthy touch of ceps and balanced by some fresh and light mint cream. The onion disc had a surprisingly sweet flavour and was not as pungent as I thought it would be. The three different textures also displayed a sophisticated technique that was as effective to the palate as it was striking to the eye.

Next, a wooden box containing a deep fried prawn head and a roasted baby potato with aioli cream and chorizo coulis, on a bed of chocolate and garlic soil. The contents were all warm, and this was sheer comfort food. The prawn head done tempura-style was extremely light, crispy and fragrant. Its slightly heavier jacket potato-like companion was very tasty (you can't go wrong with an garlic-and-chorizo flavour combination) and still rather less starchy and more fluffy on the inside than I was expecting it to be. For me however, the truly inspired touch came in the soil - who thinks of using chocolate in this manner?! Its slight bitterness and fruitiness was a remarkably effective pairing for these morsels and for the intense garlic aromas permeating this box. This soil was so delicious that I was still eating it with my fingers well after I had finished the two main bites; I would have finished it if I weren't embarrassed about being in a fine restaurant! Upon seeing how much of the soil had been finished when he came to clear the box, Alain couldn't help but chuckle as well.

Lastly, 'gin and tonic' in a crispy nougat-like form on green olive soil. Again, no mean technical feat with the 'G&T' - no idea how the kitchen did it, but despite its chunky nougat-like appearance it was absolutely crisp and light, with no resistance or stickiness whatsoever when chewing. Each bite released authentically fresh and bitter flavours - a truly striking re-interpretation of G&T. The soil introduced a savoury dimension, but even though I do love olives, this dried soil version was a little too intense and briny for me, and threatened to overpower the 'G&T' even when the latter was just lightly dipped into it.

Amuse-bouche: blanched asparagus with textures of broccoli (puréed, fresh and deep-fried), macadamia shavings and miso cream.

The asparagus was crunchy, juicy and sweet, while the variations on broccoli highlighted different aspects of the vegetable's flavour. I liked the deep-fried bits best for their caramelised flavour and crispness. Macadamia shavings imparted a lovely crunch while dollops of miso cream enhanced the delicate vegetal sweetness of this dish very effectively with a deep umami. On the whole this was a simple, elegant, and wholesome way to begin the meal proper.

First course: lightly cured kanpachi (yellowtail) sashimi with a touch of yuzu vinaigrette, on a bed of fromage blanc. Toppings of tapioca pearls, Oscietra caviar, celery and mustard pearls, daikon strips, grapefruit pulp and olive oil.

Japanese sashimi with a French slant, the delicate flavour of the fish was wonderfully complemented by the yuzu vinaigrette, which was the first condiment to strike me due to its unmistakable aroma. The bed of fromage blanc, a fat-free unfermented fresh cheese similar to yoghurt, was very light and imparted a delightful smoothness to each mouthful whilst not overpowering the subtle flavours of this dish at all. The rest of the accompaniments also did their part in enhancing the fish. The caviar and olive oil in particular were of particularly high quality; the caviar had a juicy salinity to it beneath the thin gelatinous membranes, while the olive oil was incredibly fresh and fruity with a slight bitter edge.

Second course: 'white on white' - warm salad of cauliflower (shaved and puréed), fromage blanc, ajo blanco (white garlic) sauce, ika (Japanese squid) à la plancha.

This warm dish made an immediate impression with an intense garlic aroma combined with a lovely caramelised edge from grilled squid. Despite its monochrome appearance and seemingly chaotic plating, it tasted every bit as good as it smelled. The delicate sweetness and freshness of cauliflower and fromage blanc were perfectly contrasted by the rich and foamy garlic sauce. The cauliflower shavings had a pleasant juicy crunch while the purée was smooth and creamy. The solid bits of fromage blanc snow surely made a visual impact when the warm garlic sauce was poured over the dish, half-'melting' the snow into bigger viscous blobs. Hidden between the layers of shaved and puréed cauliflower were amazingly tender, succulent and tasty pieces of squid. We all know how easy it is for seafood such as squid/cuttlefish/octopus to be overcooked and become rubbery and chewy, so this was surely proof of the chefs' skills.

Third course: 'paella' of gambas and potage - with Mozambique prawn done two ways (pan-fried and deep fried), poached Japanese abalone and Spanish prawn, rabbit wrapped in Bigorre bacon, senbei (rice & nori cracker), edamame and piquillo pepper purées, and saffron-infused paella sauce.

Stepan announced this dish with, 'Now you don't have to leave the restaurant to be transported to Spain, on the other side of the world!' Indeed, they had taken me there with a deconstructed luxury version of the classic Spanish rice dish - although there wasn't a single grain of rice here, this dish was still absolutely comforting and bursting with flavour from all the premium seafood and meat in the plate. The Mozambique prawn stood out for its different textures (firm juicy body with a light and crispy head), the abalone for its tenderness, the rabbit for its rich gamey flavour aptly enhanced by the bacon wrap, and the senbei for its crispness and deep umami. All these were bound together by a generous pool of very tasty paella sauce, infused with the bright colour and subtle aroma of saffron. This dish, familiar in so many respects, also demonstrated a strong and effective fusion of Japanese and Spanish elements. Presentation-wise, it was really colourful and appealing when it arrived but too bad I couldn't snap a picture in time before the paella sauce was poured in, submerging the meticulous plating beneath!

Fourth course: 'champignons' - textures of mushrooms: puréed, grilled, blanched, dried and dehydrated (powdered), using black trumpet and cep mushrooms. Surrounded by herb oil and purée, and topped with shavings of Périgord truffle.

Mushroom broth poured in - heavenly!

For a mushroom lover this was pure bliss; the deep earthy flavours and aromas of mushrooms in their various forms were omnipresent and simply intoxicating. The incredible variety of textures present within just one main ingredient was testimony to the chefs' technique, and a sheer delight for the tastebuds as I worked my way through different layers in one mouthful. Carefully-shaved truffle discs formed the jewels to the crown. The surrounding herbs were a very good idea indeed for keeping the palate fresh through all this indulgence.

Fifth course: slow-braised Japanese abalone in seawater, konbu (Japanese kelp) risotto with okra and wild kelp coulis. Topped with grated botargo and a leaf of Japanese sea lettuce.

The basic ingredient of Japanese cooking, konbu, was wonderfully combined with an Italian staple here. For a while I couldn't quite decide whether this was more of a zosui (Japanese-style porridge) or risotto; both appeared to be equally credible options. This seemingly delicate dish had a remarkably deep flavour from konbu and botargo, while the rice grains had retained the firm and satisfying bite typical of a good risotto. The abalone came in much thicker chunks than in the earlier 'paella' dish but was still amazingly tender and easy to chew through - no signs of dryness or rubberiness whatsoever. The truly ingenious touch for me, however, was mixing okra (lady's finger) with the risotto to re-create an authentically rich, silky and creamy texture without actually using cream or butter in the cooking sauce. The result was a rice dish that felt really luxurious to the palate, yet remained extremely light, fresh and wholesome throughout.

Sixth course: 'memory' - warm foie gras jelly, Périgord truffle coulis, fleur de sel and Japanese chives.

This dish was clearly a tribute to Chiang's classical French training as well as a delightful re-interpretation of the popular Japanese side dish of chawanmushi (steamed savoury egg custard). It is actually the only true staple of this restaurant - part of the more elaborate dinner menu but also served at lunch. The foie gras jelly had a very soft and rich consistency and intense musky flavour, and it met its equal in the deep earthy aroma of the truffle coulis. A sprinkling of sea salt and chives was the icing on this petite but extravagant creation.

Seventh course: 24-hour sous-vide short rib, charcoal-grilled baby leek, XO beurre blanc purée, pickled shallots, shredded dried scallops, garlic bread crouton, beef jus.

The most substantial course of this lunch, this beef fillet was absolutely tender and juicy, and it had a most delightful crispy top layer as it had been pan-seared just before serving. Its rich flavour was well-matched by the creamy purée, which had a very familiar taste due to the addition of XO sauce (which, despite its name, is actually just a spicy dried seafood sauce popular in Cantonese cooking, and does not contain any cognac). Dried scallops, another popular ingredient in both Cantonese and Japanese cooking, were also featured, and contributed a lovely deep flavour to the delicately sweet and juicy leeks. The latter also went hand-in-hand with the crispy garlic bread croutons and pickled shallots, both of which had a similarly pleasant pungence. On the whole, this main course was luxurious, really tasty and aromatic, and ended the savoury part of the meal with considerable aplomb. I couldn't wait to see what other surprises the desserts might offer.

Meanwhile, Chiang was doing his rounds in the restaurant and greeting every table, and of course I didn't miss the opportunity for a photo with him (thank you Alain for this!). I could only say to him how great the food had been so far, but he's probably heard it thousands of times now!

First dessert: 'pineapple cake' - shell of fresh pineapple containing a filling of small chunks of caramelised pineapple, and coated with fine biscuit crumbs. Served with vanilla ice-cream and coconut chantilly cream.

With this first dessert, Chiang finally returned to his personal roots. There is arguably no pastry from Taiwan more representative than pineapple cake (鳳梨酥). This posh take on the popular Taiwanese snack seemed somewhat plain and straightforward compared to the preceding dishes, but what really mattered was how it tasted, and on that count it certainly delivered. Texturally, this was a sheer delight with crunchy and juicy fresh pineapples encasing a filling of soft and pulpy caramelised pineapples. The biscuit layer of this pastry came as no more than a fine coating of crumbs over the outer pineapple shell, making it possibly the purest and most lavish pineapple cake I would ever eat. The accompanying vanilla ice cream and coconut cream were a very solid combination which enhanced the tropical slant of this dessert very effectively. I particularly liked the coconut cream which, though seemingly copious and cloying, was in fact extremely light, airy and aromatic.

Second dessert: 'Snickers 2014' - chocolate and peanut soil, caramel jelly, vanilla ice cream with fromage blanc and fleur de sel. The ball contains a parfait of chocolate and nougat, with a caramel centre.

A standard dinner item for the whole year, this was yet another deconstruction, now of a Snickers bar, with its components put together in the prettiest and most decadent forms imaginable. This dessert had obviously been designed to impress and surprise, though I did feel it was somewhat more style than substance. The main ball was pure comfort food if a tad excessive, considering how refined and balanced all the preceding courses had been. I particularly liked the base of vanilla ice cream with fromage blanc, which are not actually part of a Snickers bar, but helped to temper, with their own freshness, the somewhat cloying nature of the other components. A sprinkling of fleur de sel also imparted a unique depth of flavour to a dessert that might have otherwise only been described as being uniformly sweet. Snickers is after all neither the most sophisticated nor subtle of snacks, so these diversions were both essential and effective in a fine-dining context.

No petit fours followed the last dessert, which was a little surprising for me, but I was already very full anyway so I didn't mind just finishing like that. In any case one shouldn't expect all the bells and whistles for a significantly lower price at lunchtime.

My extended lunch had taken me longer than the other customers to finish, and I was yet again the last person to leave a restaurant. The staff however remained entirely professional, and when I was ready to go at nearly 4 pm Alain sent me off very warmly and without a trace of impatience. I can tell you that such levels of service cannot be taken for granted in Singapore, even in fine-dining restaurants; the idea of hospitality as a legitimate and professional career is largely non-existent in this country, which often relies on cheap foreign labour and students/part-timers with very little true commitment to the F&B industry.

Already in the heat of preparing for the dinner service.

I was well and truly impressed with my first experience at Restaurant André and felt that this was so far the only fine restaurant I've been to in Singapore that truly matched up to European standards in terms of food and service. The staff were attentive but not obstrusive, and Alain and Stepan in particular made my day with their friendliness and warmth, as well as knowledge of, and passion for, food and hospitality in general. They all seemed genuinely happy and proud to be working here, and the positive vibes were infectious. I can't wait to be back for the actual 'Octaphilosophy' dinner when my pockets are more ready for it!