Sunday lunch at The Ledbury

Back home in a couple of days, and I thought I'd pay my favourite restaurant in London one last visit before leaving. I also brought a friend along for his first visit.

Canapé: poppy seed tartlet with Gruyère cream & shavings and finger lime. Lovely, as always.

Amuse bouche: ceviche of hand-dived scallops with Tokyo turnips, seaweed oil, frozen horseradish and apple jelly.

Lovely touch of generosity, as always. For regulars to the restaurant, you will know that this is a full dish in its own right, as well as a signature item. For more detailed comments, please refer to this recent review from June.

Starter 1: poached ceps with 2 year old Comté, Wiltshire truffle shavings & cream, dried black cabbage, and a broth of grilled onions with a dash of truffle & hazelnut oil.

My choice; this dish was very similar to another signature item, the Hampshire buffalo milk curd with mushrooms and onion broth. Most significantly, the buffalo curd had been replaced by a layer of molten cheese, and the strong and slightly sweet flavour of this wonderfully aged cow's milk cheese was the perfect complement to the intense and earthy ceps. The ceps' succulent texture was extremely satisfying when paired with the smooth and creamy cheese. The black cabbage (a kind of kale) also stood out in this dish, imparting a delicate sweet taste and crispy texture. The other accompaniments could of course have been taken for granted by me by now, but I should state that they were no less effective than they were in the original signature dish.

Starter 2: Crapaudine beetroot baked in clay, with smoked eel and dried black olives.

My friend's rather unusual choice turned out to be a very good one indeed! Just when I thought what miracles could possibly be worked with the humble beetroot, here came this masterpiece of flavour and plating. This, of course, was no ordinary beetroot; the Crapaudine variety from France is the oldest in cultivation, dating back to the time of Charlemagne. Stealing a few bites, I found its dark red flesh incredibly juicy, and baking in clay had resulted in a lovely firm texture as well as concentrated all of the beet's sweet earthy goodness; I couldn't have imagined a more flavourful beet. The crisp tuiles added another unexpected textural dimension. This astonishing vegetable was very aptly and proportionately paired with savoury touches such as a sprinkling of crushed & dried black olives, and dollops of smoked eel mousse. I did wonder, in hindsight, why there were no actual pieces of smoked eel, as most other pictures of this dish seemed to show them - had we been shortchanged?! Whatever the case, this was a thoroughly enjoyable dish which truly allowed high-quality produce to speak for itself, with minimal intervention.

Main course 1: roasted neck of lamb with fresh figs, baked root vegetables, fennel and dried black olives.

I had remembered the excellent lamb dish from my visit last month; both the neck and loin had been featured, but it was the former that I couldn't get enough of, with its melt-in-the-mouth texture and deep flavour. Now I had a much bigger chunk of neck alone to enjoy! On top of that, the accompaniments included my favourite figs, which complemented the luxurious meat perfectly with their creamy texture and sweetness. I really didn't want this to end!

Main course 2: aged fillet and short rib of Ruby Red beef from Devon with bone marrow, celeriac baked in ash and enrobed in juniper cream and dried black olives, crisp potato galette, wild garlic and spinach purée, celeriac purée, toppings of wild garlic, bone marrow and celeriac chips, sorrel garnish. (£10 supplement)

This was the highlight of the lunch for my friend. He had wanted to go for a fish or seafood dish but I persuaded him to take this, remembering the excellent beef dish I had had as part of the tasting menu in February. It was indeed worth every penny of the supplement charged; both parts of the beef were of course as tender, succulent and tasty as they could get, while the small blob of bone marrow contributed a truly decadent touch of creaminess and muskiness. What really surprised both of us, though, was the celeriac baked in ash; its sweetness, coupled with a surprisingly smooth and rich texture, was extremely satisfying. The layer of ash coating imparted a pleasant hint of bitterness, while the juniper emulsion, made with a mixture of soft boiled eggs, truffle juice and sherry vinegar, contributed a lovely complex flavour that was nothing like I've ever tasted. This humble root vegetable had been transformed beyond recognition! Wild garlic in this dish was another first for me; I was expecting something strong and pungent, but as a relative of the chive family it was actually rather mild and sweet. On the whole, this was an absolute masterpiece.

Dessert 1: fig leaf ice cream and crushed figs, with vanilla and fig coulis, meringue pieces, finger lime garnish and a drizzle of olive oil. Served with a side of lime beignets.

We were nearly at the end of the black fig season so I considered myself very lucky to be able to taste this excellent fruit again. The figs came this time crushed and shaped in the form of a terrine, and their rich texture and intense sweetness were very comforting indeed. Most unusually, the fig leaves were also used to make an ice cream, which tasted uncannily similar to coconut, with an mild aftertaste of warm spices. Very memorable first experience with this part of the fig! (A brief online search revealed that fig leaves are very good for you, being loaded with antioxidants; it is also often made into tea as a supplement for the control of diabetes.) A touch of vanilla cream was the perfect complement to this warm coconut-y taste, while the olive oil provided an essential touch of freshness together with the crisp and fluffy citrus beignets on the side. On the whole, this dessert was extremely sophisticated and well-balanced.

Dessert 2: brown sugar tart with stem ginger ice cream, Muscat grapes and a touch of balsamico.

Hardly my first encounter with this signature item of course, and I recommended that my friend try this for a first visit; needless to say he was also very impressed with the tart's richness and similarity in taste to gula melaka, and how the stem ginger ice cream balanced it with a pleasant spiciness. I certainly believe that this is one dessert that would appeal to all Southeast Asian people!

Complimentary dessert: banana and chocolate malt tartlet.

This was new to both of us, and although I had thought of ordering it on a previous visit, I hadn't gone ahead then, as I wasn't sure that a banana and chocolate combination would throw up any surprises. There's probably a reason why most fine restaurants shy away from bananas in their desserts, since they might feel compelled to display a certain level of sophistication and technique. But since this dessert was on the house now, perfect! No reason to complain, and I was sure it was going to be good anyway.

As expected, compared to the two previous desserts, this was relatively 'safe'. No earth-shattering endeavours here; this was indulgence pure and simple, given a slightly more classy presentation in line with fine dining standards. A tart pastry case contained a viscous banana purée with tiny banana chunks, smothered by a generous layer of rich gooey chocolate. Some textural definition was imparted by toppings of a crisp chocolate caramel tuile and chopped hazelnuts, and a sprinkling of chocolate malt soil on the side.

Petit fours to end the meal: blood orange jelly, juniper biscuit with caramel cream, and chocolate ganache with eucalyptus filling.

The only pity in this afternoon's lunch was that Laurens had gone back to the Netherlands on holiday and was not around to take care of us (though needless to say the service was still excellent). This meal was a truly fitting conclusion to my gastronomic experiences in London and other European cities. I consider myself extremely fortunate to have been able to eat at so many lovely places over the past two years, and look forward to a new chapter of foodie adventures back in Singapore and around Asia!

(Update 28/04/2014: The Ledbury is now no. 10 on the St. Pellegrino's list, up 3 places from last year - congratulations on a well-deserved upgrade!)

Lunch at Dabbous (Tasting Menu)

Almost one year ago, I made my first visit to Dabbous shortly after it had gotten its first Michelin star, in addition to just about every superlative imaginable from London's major food critics. I was then very impressed by the food and unpretentious atmosphere, and vowed to myself to return soon. However, increasing work commitments and an insanely full reservations schedule meant that I never got round to a second visit till this afternoon - but as they say better late than never!

I was really looking forward to this lunch, especially as it would be my last visit for the foreseeable future. I was also keen to experience if and how the cooking had evolved or improved over the course of the year. Unfortunately, no additional stars were awarded by Michelin this year as I had hoped (perhaps you'll see why towards the end of this post), but the constantly packed space even after 1.5 years of business (and cooling of the initial hype) must mean that this restaurant is doing something right!

Just about a month ago, I had managed to squeeze myself in for a late lunch today via direct correspondence with the restaurant, so I was pretty lucky I guess. (One general tip: don't bother with online reservations systems for hugely popular establishments like this; just call or email for last-minute availability.)

Upon arrival, I was informed very apologetically by Graham, the manager on duty, that my table wasn't ready yet as the customers from the previous seating had not vacated. Not surprising at all, as it is very difficult to keep to a strict turnover time, and you can't possibly ask the customers to leave just like that in an upmarket restaurant. I was escorted to the basement bar and offered some water by Graham's friendly assistant Amy, while he tried to sort out my table as soon as possible.

I was expecting a longer wait (and I really didn't mind) but after what seemed like only 10 minutes Amy returned to say that my table was ready and to take me back up. To my utter surprise and delight she added, 'To apologise for making you wait, may I offer you a complimentary glass of wine to go with your lunch today?' Of course I wasn't going to say no! What a lovely start to the meal.

There have been a couple of fundamental changes to the menu since last year: they now serve only two fixed menus, a 4-course set lunch (£28) and a 7-course tasting (£59). The dishes were entirely different from what I had on the first visit. No prizes for guessing which I chose! I was also allowed to pick a wine from those offered by the glass (more on that soon).

Bread to die for -
still as good as last year's!

Course 1: Muscat grapes with lovage, almond milk and a drizzle of rapeseed oil.

This was a lovely and wholesome starter. The sweetness and juiciness of the grapes were perfectly matched by the mild nuttiness of the almond milk, while lovage and rapeseed oil imparted a touch of freshness with their crisp and slightly bitter taste.

Course 2: lardo on toast with black truffle.

Throw out all your diet regimes - toast doesn't get better than this! Strong truffle aromas really excited all the senses even before I had taken a bite. This reminded me immediately of both the signature truffle toast dish at The Ledbury and the lardo on toast starter that I had at I' Brincello in Florence during my Easter holiday in Italy. Now I had both on the same piece of bread! Slivers of creamy and silky lardo with an incredibly intense flavour, combined with fragrant truffle shavings, generously spread over a warm, crisp and wafer-thin slice of bread - what's not to love? In contrast to the previous starter, this was pure unabashed indulgence and comfort food at the highest level.

The wine that I had selected a while ago was now served in anticipation of the next course. I was a little miffed by the sommelier (not Amy) when I asked him to tell me a little more about this wine; his response in a somewhat patronising tone was 'Well what do you want to know?' and I didn't manage to get any deeper information other than the wine's basic composition. To be sure, I'm no wine connoisseur and I was just trying to learn.

Anyway, this was a 2001 Château Les Ormes de Pez from the St. Estèphe region, a surprisingly mild, fresh and clean Bordeaux, made of mainly Merlot grapes with a blend of Cabernet Blanc and Sauvignon. A truly excellent tipple - I would have paid its asking price of £14 - made even better by the fact that it was on the house (the indifferent sommelier notwithstanding)!

Course 3: carrot cooked in oxtail gravy, with rosemary infused swede cream and smoked powder.

This reminded me somewhat of the single carrot with ash and sorrel cream that was served to me at Noma in Copenhagen at the end of last year. The techniques here were different but no less precise and understated; the carrot had been cooked to amazing melt-in-the-mouth tenderness, with no fibrous hints whatsoever, and retained all its juices. Its sweetness, combined with the deep flavour of the thick oxtail gravy, was utterly moreish and satisfying. How often can one say that of a carrot-centred dish? Not forgetting the jewel in the crown either: a small mound of rich and smooth swede cream, enhanced with the sweet pine-like aroma of rosemary and a smoky aftertaste from the sprinkling of ash. The flavours and textures of this dish were substantial, yet left the stomach feeling surprisingly light and balanced.

Course 4: monkfish with warm potted shrimps, cauliflower purée, pickled cucumber, wood sorrel, pea shoots and oyster sauce.

This was straightforward and tasty. The monkfish's firm and succulent texture and delicate flavour was aptly enhanced by the meaty texture and rich spiced taste of potted shrimps. The cauliflower purée was a perfect complement to the natural sweetness of fresh seafood, while the surrounding pool of oyster sauce (not as viscous, dark-coloured and salty as the bottled Chinese ones, to be sure) bound the whole dish together with a lovely umami. Various garnishings completed this picture of wholesomeness with a pleasant crisp edge.

Course 5: roasted veal fillet with coco beans, chrysanthemum leaf, summer squash, red onions and a light cheese broth with a dash of olive oil.

The was the heaviest dish of the afternoon. The intense aromas of cheese, onion and roasted meat wafted through the air as the dish was being brought to my table. The veal was done just right and had a most tender and juicy texture, and mere seasoning with sea salt was enough to highlight its deep flavour. The was no let-up from the surrounding sauce either; its rich taste, enhanced by a fresh and bitter edge from olive oil, was just perfect for the veal. The generous portion of beans and vegetables contributed a healthy balance and made one feel somewhat less guilty about all this indulgence!

Course 6: chilled lemon verbena infusion with cucumber and perilla (shiso).

This was a delightful breath of fresh air after the extravagance of the preceding courses. The predominant citrus flavour of the infusion, combined with crisp cucumber and the unmistakable sweet minty aroma of shiso, was irresistible. My only complaint was the miniscule portion, even by palate cleanser standards!

Course 7: orange blossom beignet.

I hesitate to call this a 'course' because this was really just a ball of donut-like pastry with custard filling and dusted with powdered sugar. Sure, it was warm, crisp on the outside and fluffy on the inside, and the custard was nice and thick (though I couldn't quite detect the citrusy edge that orange blossoms should have imparted) - but was there anything about this confection that you could not reasonably expect to get in any decent bakery? This last bit of the menu was inoffensive, to be sure, but it was also terribly underwhelming for such an acclaimed restaurant.

Ending bites: baby Japanese peaches with shredded shiso.

These looked nothing like peaches, obviously, but their deliberately unripe state was surprisingly effective; the well-balanced sweet-and-sour taste together with shiso resulted in something that resembled a much juicier version of Taiwanese cured plums, which are often taken after meals to aid digestion.

So what's the verdict upon this repeat visit? I felt that this menu was very different from last year's which had used nuts extensively; I wonder if this change was a result of customer feedback (as nut and seed allergies are extremely common in this part of the world). The flavours had also become noticeably heavier (in a good way - I wasn't complaining). In hindsight, the only disappointments were in desserts; they were now quite nondescript compared to the exquisite execution and good portion sizes of last year's desserts. A real shame to have ended this way methinks, considering the very high level of the savoury courses.

On the presentation front, I also noticed a few chipped pieces of crockery (as in the photos). I know this restaurant is about industrial chic and all that, but a seemingly minor detail like this can detract from its polished image in the long term.

Still, for its unfussy and solid cooking, Dabbous is worth a visit as you probably won't be getting a tasting menu of this quality for this price at comparable starred establishments in London. If its reservations schedule for the next 6 months is anything to go by, the foodie community definitely doesn't seem to be minding a few inadequacies!

Lunch at The Greenhouse (Tasting Menu)

The 2014 Michelin Guide for the UK has just been released last week, and amongst London restaurants there were two newly-minted 2-star places: Dinner by Heston (2 reviews on this blog so far) and The Greenhouse. Of course, I wasted no time in checking out the latter, and visited The Greenhouse for the first time this afternoon.

The Greenhouse is in fact no newbie on London's gastronomic scene: feeding the well-heeled crowd from the same Mayfair location since 1977, it is particularly well-known for its impressive wine list and solid cooking. One of the few long stayers in a scene increasingly dominated by fancy openings, its previous head chefs have included (by now) classic figures such as Brian Turner and Gary Rhodes. The kitchen is currently helmed by young French chef Arnaud Bignon, a protégé of Eric Fréchon, the highly respected and long-standing head chef of 3-starred Le Bristol in Paris.

For first-timers this restaurant can be a little difficult to find; it is situated at the end of a cul-de-sac in a quaint part of Mayfair, a leafy oasis in the midst of the luxury hotels, boutiques and car showrooms that define this area. It is always lovely to escape from the incessant hustle and bustle of this city, even if just for an hour or two.

Entering a different world.

Nice little walkway leading to the entrance, and a
reminder that space is such a luxury in London!

I was warmly received by the lady manager on duty and promptly shown to my seat by the window as requested. I got a great overview of the dining room; surprisingly, it was barely filled, though it did start to get busy as the afternoon progressed. Although it was lunch on a weekday, the restaurant's recent status upgrade does seem to have had an effect in putting bums on seats. Upon enquiry it was confirmed that they have had noticeably more new diners like myself since last week's Michelin release.

The usual options are offered: a 3-course lunch menu at £25, a tasting menu at £90 and a special chef's 'discovery' menu at £110. By London 2-star standards, the food here is considerably cheaper, but these prices are most likely a reflection of its former 1-star status so expect them to go up very soon! As it was my first visit, my server suggested I go for the tasting menu to get a feel of the restaurant's signature dishes, and I happily went along with that.

Canapés: pretzel cracker with curried mussel cream and coriander leaves, beetroot meringue with wasabi and mascarpone, bread soufflé with beef tartare and arënkha (a caviar substitute made of smoked and spherised herring fillets).

This exquisite assortment of bites contained a couple of pleasant surprises which set the tone clearly for the meal proper. The techniques behind each morsel were classically French but the choice and combination of ingredients were most unusual. I personally liked the meringue the most; the deep earthy sweetness of beetroot was encapsulated in two feather-light meringue shells, which in turn contained a rich sweet cheese filling, with a touch of wasabi for the added kick. It was indulgent, yet refreshing and ephemeral all at once. The bread soufflé (really a mini dumpling) with beef and mock caviar came a close second for its understated weight and intensity of flavour. The pretzel stick was tasty though relatively unexciting; any trace of mussels in the cream had been overpowered by its strong curried flavour.

A good selection of breads followed soon after, served by friendly Mario who hails from Germany:

My picks: chestnut bread and chorizo & parmesan bread, served with the most French of butters from Bordier (salted Espelette pepper butter and unsalted butter) and Maldon salt flakes. Lovely flavours, though I wished that the bread would be more fluffy and crisp in texture; it had lost some of that oven-fresh warmth by the time it arrived on my plate. The butter made up for any reservations I had about the bread - I could never get enough of that rich silky stuff (and fancy finding Bordier products in London!).

Course 1: shredded Cornish crab seasoned with coriander and ginger, cauliflower cream, curry, under a layer of mint jelly and Granny Smith apple foam & chunks.

This dish is a staple on the menu regardless of season. Unfortunately, it wasn't a really good start. To me it was a case of having too many cooks spoil the broth: the sheer variety of ingredients led to flavours that didn't always work well together, and even detracted from the whole point of this dish (which, to be fair, was excellent on its own - naturally sweet and succulent). The most problematic component was also the most visible: I didn't understand how mint jelly, with its very distinctive piquant taste, could have been conceived to complement the crab. I also thought that the proportion of crab to jelly was misjudged, such that the focal ingredient actually risked being drowned out. The cauliflower cream which had been mixed with the crab was effective in enhancing the latter's flavour, though the good was somewhat undone when taken together with the mildly sourish apple foam - crustaceans and fruit simply do not belong together, in my experience. The rest of the seasonings were too subtle to have a real impact, positive or otherwise. On the whole a real shame, considering the stellar quality of the crab, largely obscured by its accompaniments.

Course 2: pan-fried foie gras topped with fennel pollen and cocoa nibs, prune compote with a touch of sherry vinegar.

This was a much more solid dish. The chosen accompaniments were also unusual, but effective: I particularly loved the idea of cocoa nibs imparting a crunchy texture amidst the creamy foie, and its bitterness was a perfect complement to the foie's natural musky flavour and slight charred edge from pan frying. Fennel pollen also deepened the foie's taste with a bittersweet anise-like aroma, while the prune compote helped to balance all this indulgence with a good balance of sweetness and acidity.

Course 3: monkfish wrapped in nori, with cockles, razor clams, samphire and gnocchi, in a clear dashi broth with a drizzle of olive oil.

This clearly Asian-inspired dish was pleasantly familiar and comforting. The fish was cooked just right and retained all its natural juices and firm succulent texture. Its delicate taste was appropriately enhanced by a layer of dried seaweed, in the style of Japanese sushi. The dashi broth infused with ginger was fresh, mildly piquant and truly reminiscent of sauce for Chinese steamed fish dishes. The lightly cooked shellfish and salty samphire accompaniments also contributed to a lovely overall umami.

Course 4: Welsh Rhug Estate organic lamb rack and loin with miso paste, roasting juices, pepper and sweet spice coulis, cress garnish. Served with a side dish of Israeli couscous, chickpeas, mint and peppers.

This was again quite disappointing, especially considering that this was the main course. I found the lamb overly pink yet dry. It was not helped by the overly generous amount of miso paste under the rack, which I found extremely salty and overpowering. I would not have been able to taste the meat if not for its roasting juices (which was also quite salty, though not as excessively so as the miso). In comparison, the couscous, though not even mentioned in the menu, was much better. The individual grains, similar in shape and texture to fregola sarda, were delightfully large and chewy. Accompanied by chickpeas and diced peppers, and seasoned with mint and ras-el-hanout, this made for a very aromatic and satisfying Moroccan-inspired side dish, and compensated somewhat for the rather unpalatable meat.

Course 5: mojito granita enrobed in white chocolate.

This ice lolly made of lime, rum, mint with a silky white chocolate shell was a lovely breath of fresh air between the savoury and sweet courses. It was presented very impressively amidst a ring of smoking dry ice. The astringent and slightly bitter taste of lime, combined with the sweet aftertaste of rum and the freshness of mint, was just perfect.

Dessert: pine nut sponge cake, fresh and caramelised pineapples, lavender foam, meringue disc, lemon sorbet, violet garnish.

What a lovely way to end the meal. The subtle but unmistakable fragrance of lavender wafted through the air as the dessert was put on my table. It came from a cloud-like mass of foam, in the midst of which a lemon sorbet was perched. This was very smooth and refreshing and possessed just the right balance of sweetness and acidity. Beneath the foam were chunks of pine nut sponge cake and diced pineapple, a lovely combination of nutty and fruity flavours as well as crunchy and juicy textures. The different ingredients worked remarkably well together here, resulting in a dessert that was wonderfully balanced, sophisticated and elegant.

Petit fours and green tea to round off the afternoon:

From top to bottom: lemon and mint marshmallow, cassis and lime jelly with crumble, raspberry jelly.

Part 2: (from top to bottom) Equatorial chocolate with yuzu & sake jelly, Manjari chocolate with raspberry and a sprinkling of Piquillo pepper powder, and milk chocolate with basil & olive oil. I particularly loved the yuzu and basil chocolates; the freshness and slight bitter edge of the former was a perfect foil to the intensity of the chocolate, while the strong aromas and silkiness of the latter was most effective in enhancing the rich creamy taste of milk chocolate. These were so good that I actually asked for a second helping of chocolate!

A few more pictures before I left:

Private dining area

With Arnaud Bignon

As with my visit to Sketch last year soon after it was upgraded by Michelin, I wasn't always sure that The Greenhouse was cooking at the level of its 2-star counterparts today. While I am all for exploring exotic ingredients and combinations, there were definitely some aspects of flavour and balance that needed sorting out (particularly for the meat main course).

Despite a couple of hits and misses with the food, on the whole this had been a pleasant experience. Service was warm and attentive throughout, and I would particularly like to thank Gregory and Mario for taking care of me for most of the meal. Chef Bignon himself came across as an extremely humble and easy-going person when I requested to meet him for a brief chat and photo. We talked about his years training under Fréchon, whom he credits as his greatest influence, and about my favourite restaurants in this country. I probably wouldn't mind returning for the other menus once The Greenhouse has had more time to 'settle' into its new status and iron out the kinks in its cooking - and here's hoping that the kitchen team will keep improving to keep pace with its other established competitors.

(N.B. The great Eric Fréchon plays visiting chef for 3 days from 23-25 October, bringing over many of his signature dishes from Le Bristol, as well as creating a special four-hands dinner with his protégé on the final evening. A good reason to visit perhaps?)