Pierre Hermé - 'The Picasso of Pastry'

As part of my recent Paris sojourn, I visited the Pierre Hermé flagship on Rue Bonaparte in the St. Germain area twice to sample his full range (well, almost) of macarons and pastries. This man needs almost no introduction in the world of pastry chefs: having trained at luxury patissiers Gaston Lenôtre, Fauchon and Ladurée before striking out on his own, he has won numerous accolades such as Pastry Chef of the Year in France, and is the only pastry chef to have been awarded the Ordre des Arts et des Lettres, as well as the Chevalier de la Légion d'honneur by former French president Jacques Chirac. Hermé has also been dubbed 'The Picasso of Pastry' by the French Vogue magazine for his innovative creations, which like dishes in a fine restaurant or designs in high fashion, are often seasonal and/or thematic in nature. He is particularly renowned for his macarons, many of which feature unusual flavour combinations.

None of the Hermé boutiques have a sit-down salon - the only real disadvantage compared to other luxury cafés in Paris I think - so one simply has to do a take away and settle down in a nearby park for consumption. We were lucky to have our hotel just round the corner, so we went back immediately after each visit to photograph and sample the pastries and macarons in their freshest states.

Macaron 1 (large): the signature Ispahan, a combination of rose macaron biscuit, fresh raspberries, rose petal cream mixed with juicy bits of lychee. This has been likened by Hermé to a Chanel suit - the most popular staple in the range of macarons. The sweetness of the rose petal cream and lychee mixture was a completely apt balance for the tart raspberries. This masterpiece also displayed an impressive variety of textures - from the juicy bits of fruit, to the velvety & smooth cream and the incredibly light & crisp biscuit layers. Not least importantly, the subtle aroma of roses rode upon every bite of this delicious morsel.

Macaron 2 (large): Yasamine, a combination of plain macaron biscuit, jasmine tea cream, fresh mango compote and house-candied grapefruit. Though not quite as flamboyant-looking as the Ispahan, the range of textures here was equally impressive, and in terms of aroma this was even more intense and intoxicating. Beneath the sweetness of jasmine cream and pieces of fresh mango lay a hint of acidity and bitterness from sprinklings of grapefruit, to stimulate the tastebuds with every bite.

Macaron 3: Infiniment chocolat Porcelana, a pure chocolate macaron made of single-origin Venezuelan Porcelana beans. Pure heaven for chocolate lovers - the cream was wonderfully indulgent with intense cocoa flavours and a long aftertaste.

Macaron 4: Infiniment rose, essentially a simplified version of the Ispahan with rose macaron biscuit and rose petal cream. Not quite as complex as the latter, obviously, but still very good with an exclusive focus on rose aromas and a surprising depth of flavour - sweet but light, fresh, and non-cloying.

Macaron 5: Médélice, a combination of lemon macaron biscuit, lemon cream, delicate hazelnut flakes (on the biscuit's surface) and praline. An effective and well-proportioned contrast between predominantly fresh & acidic lemon cream, and a small dollop of rich & sweet praline on the side. The nutty components of this macaron gave it a wonderful character and intensity in flavour amidst the surrounding lightness.

Macaron 6: Plénitude, a combination of chocolate and caramel macaron biscuits, dark chocolate chips with fleur de sel, bittersweet chocolate ganache, crunchy caramel. As the name of this macaron suggests, this was a picture of pure decadence (look at the smooth and glistening outer ganache layer!) wherein full-bodied cocoa flavours were given a further salty & buttery edge (from the caramel and fleur de sel). The firm and crunchy bits of chocolate chips and caramel also contributed a most pleasing bite to the overall texture.

Macaron 7: Infiniment caramel, a pure fleur de sel salted butter caramel macaron. This was simple yet powerful. The sweet-savoury balance was perfectly achieved, with a subtle charred hint to the taste, and the cream layer had an utterly velvety & luxurious mouthfeel.

Macaron 8: Mogador, a combination of passionfruit macaron biscuits dusted with cocoa powder, milk chocolate cream and fresh passionfruit pieces. A staple in the range of macarons, this unlikely partnership produces some rather amazing results. The juicy & acidic passionfruit cuts through the surrounding rich & sweet chocolate cream, and invigorates the latter with its characteristic aroma and flavour.

Macaron 9: Éden, a combination of peach, apricot and saffron. The light and pleasing fruit components were hugely elevated by the addition of expensive and exotic saffron, with subtle hay aromas. This spice also contributed a most vivid golden yellow hue to the cream layer, which made for incredibly attractive viewing despite its apparent simplicity.

Macaron 10: Jardin du Paradis, a combination of aniseed and saffron. This was part of ten macarons in Hermé's ongoing 2012 'Collection Éphémère: Les Jardins' series, released gradually in small amounts from February to November (one new macaron per month), in which fleeting pleasures are evoked in the form of fragrances, produced by different herbs and spices (hence the name 'Ephemeral Collection'). This macaron for June (thankfully still in production when I visited) was a most interesting experience; as the two spices started to unfold and linger on the palate they displayed an incredible balance, remaining distinct yet not overpowering the other. Eventually, the more resilient aroma of aniseed emerged to finish on a refreshing and subtly sweet note, whilst the discreet hay-like aroma of saffron faded away.

Macaron 11: Mosaïc, a combination of vanilla macaron biscuits, pistachio cream flavoured with cinnamon, and griottines (morello cherries macerated in eau de vie or kirsch). This was one of my favourites; apart from looking really pretty, the curious flavour combinations worked surprisingly well. The characteristic taste of pistachio was unmistakeably present in the rich and smooth cream, and its flavour was enhanced by the infusion of extremely aromatic and sweet-smelling cinnamon. The cherry bits nestled within the cream layer provided a delightful contrast with their juicy texture and mild acidity, and the process of maceration in liqueur also contributed a full-bodied and slightly bitter edge to the macaron, which complemented its predominantly nutty flavours perfectly. The vanilla biscuit layers, playing a naturally supportive and versatile role, were the ideal foil for this complex array of flavours.

Macaron 12: Infiniment jasmin, layers of jasmine flower macaron biscuit sandwiching a rich jasmine tea cream. This elegant and dainty piece was my absolute favourite within the entire range, and proof that sometimes simple is best. The enchanting aromas of jasmine were present in full force, providing pure, unadulterated pleasure. I have no idea what the silvery sprinklings on the biscuit layers were, but the air of sophistication that they imparted to the macaron on the whole was evident.

Macaron 13: Jardin d'été, a combination of lemon and caramelised fennel. The most current release in the 2012 Les Jardins series, this was an incredibly light, clean-tasting and well-balanced macaron. Tiny caramelised cubes of fennel set atop the smooth lemon cream layer both contributed a nice bite in the texture and enhanced the refreshing tartness of the lemon with a subtly aromatic and sweet aniseed flavour. A very different take on lemon from the Médélice (Macaron 5), and no less brilliant.

Pastry 1: 2000 feuilles, Hermé's take on the classic French millefeuille dessert, consisting of alternating layers of flaky caramelised puff pastry crust, crushed Piedmont hazelnut praline, and praline mousseline cream. This was definitely the best millefeuille that I'd ever had. The naming of this pastry, suggesting a double intensity, was not unjustified - never have I tried a more densely packed millefeuille with such unabashedly indulgent and flavourful layers. The range of textures was impressive - from the crispy, feather-light Brittany-style crêpe dentelle biscuit layers, to the grainy praline with a wonderful crunch, and the smooth, velvety mousse. It was so good I bought it again on my second visit to the boutique. Tip: this should definitely be enjoyed as soon as possible - the second time I ate it in the evening, after having left the pastry box in the hotel room for a few hours, and it had 'melted' and collapsed into a thinner and denser pile meanwhile - not the prettiest thing to look at, though it still tasted quite good.

Pastry 2: Carrément chocolat, a whole dark chocolate-based layered slab consisting of moist chocolate cake (similar to a moelleux), rich chocolate cream, chocolate mousse, bits of chocolate croustillant, thin & crispy chocolate wafers. A slice of the divine with every imaginable variation of chocolate included, this had an overwhelming intensity and was almost too much of a good thing, but I certainly wasn't complaining - desserts should be sinful or there'd be no point having them!

Pastry 3: the pastry version of the Plénitude macaron. The dark chocolate dome was coated with pieces of dark and white chocolate, and contained layers of chocolate macaron biscuit, dark chocolate chips with fleur de sel, dark chocolate mousse and ganache, and crunchy salted butter caramel. Very similar in composition to Carrément chocolat but somewhat more balanced, with an appealing savoury edge from the caramel and fleur de sel.

Pastry 4: peach, rose and cumin tart, inspired by Femme, a fragrance by perfumier Rochas. This delicate creation consisted of a pâte sablée crust coated with cumin-spiced sugar, which contained slices of fresh yellow peaches on a bed of almond cream infused with the subtle flavour of roses. Next to 2000 feuilles this was my favourite piece; the juicy peaches went hand-in-hand with the mildly sweet almond cream, and I thought that the use of cumin was an ingenious touch - the characteristic aroma of this exotic and enthralling spice was present in every mouthful and made for a most memorable experience. Due to the somewhat overpowering nature of this spice, the rose infusion within the cream became rather difficult to detect, but perhaps I wasn't missing out on too much?

Pastry 5: Désiré, a lemon, strawberry and banana creation. A base of pâte sablée and lemon biscuit lays the foundation for a dome of incredibly light lemon cream, with a layer of banana and strawberry compote in the middle, and topped with fresh raspberries. On the whole this was very refreshing and clean-tasting - predominantly acidic, but with a good measure of sweetness from the flavourful and chunky compote for balance. A very nice way to end my exploration into Hermé's world of desserts.

The two visits to Hermé's flagship boutique in St. Germain yielded an extraordinary discovery of flavours, aromas and textures, and impressed with every creation's attention to detail. This definitely wasn't just about desserts looking pretty or pursuing novelty for their own sake; ultimately the proof of the pudding is in the eating, and on that count, everything I had tried passed with flying colours. I look forward to sampling more inspired creations from this master pastry chef in future!

Dinner at Paul Bocuse's Le Sud brasserie, Lyon

My recent holiday in France also took me to the city of Lyon, an UNESCO World Heritage City as renowned for its role in ancient Roman history, as it is for its modern reputation as the food capital of the country (not Paris - you'd be surprised!). Lyon is synonymous with casual eating places known as bouchons, where both locals and tourists go to experience a spot of good old-fashioned home-style cooking at extremely reasonable prices. Admittedly, the food is quite heavy (consisting mainly of cream, cheese, thick meat stews, and the ever-popular sausages or saucissons) so after doing our rounds in the more well-known and authentic bouchons we decided that it was time for something lighter on the stomach. We asked our hotel for a recommendation, and were directed to Le Sud near Place Bellecour in the city centre.

Not knowing anything about the place, I looked it up on the Internet before we went to dinner, and realised that it is actually one of few casual brasseries (the others, perhaps not surprisingly, are named Le Nord, L'Ouest, L'Est) opened in Lyon's city centre by the legendary Paul Bocuse, granddaddy of French fine-dining. Before travelling to France, I had toyed with the idea of visiting his Michelin-starred flagship in Pont de Collonges on the outskirts of Lyon, but eventually gave up because both the taxi ride and the meal would have been prohibitively expensive. Now, Le Sud wouldn't be too far off the mark if it carried Bocuse's name, I thought! Off we went to dinner, in heightened anticipation.

As the name of the restaurant suggests, it specialises in Southern French / Mediterranean cuisine - lots of fresh seafood, fruit and vegetables - which was perfect for us after several rather heavy meals at local bouchons.

Upon arrival, we were promptly shown to a table on the verandah. It was nice to sit outside on a cool, balmy evening. My partner decided to order from the prix-fixe menu, while I went à la carte. Prices were marginally more expensive than usual in Lyon, but still within our expectations; in any case good produce never comes cheap.

Starter (set menu): melon et jambon cru ibérique (sliced melon with Iberico ham)

A common summer starter, this was very good indeed. The melon was extremely sweet and juicy while the ham was of very high quality - velvety and full-bodied without the excessive saltiness that comes with more inferior hams. It is very difficult to go wrong with a sweet-savoury combination such as this.

Starter (à la carte): caviar d'aubergines aux parfums du sud (Southern-style aubergine confit)

This was a brilliant cold dish incorporating the best of seasonal Southern produce - a generous mound of sweet, creamed aubergine was surrounded by an aromatic pool of pistou (basil and olive oil sauce), and topped with crunchy pine nuts and sesame seeds, juicy tomatoes and capsicums, and caramelised onions. It was truly fresh, wholesome and satisfying.

Main course (set menu): filet de cabillaud cuit à la plancha (roasted cod fillet on a bed of crushed potato and spinach, olive oil and diced tomato dressing)

The fish was very fresh and well cooked; under the slightly crispy skin, the flesh flaked effortlessly and remained moist and succulent. Its accompaniments were simple but of high quality (especially the olive oil and tomato dressing), and complemented the substantial fillet very well.

Main course (à la carte): panaché de filets de poissons du marché, grillés à la plancha (an assortment of grilled seafood including red mullet, sea bream, prawns and scallops, accompanied by steamed potatoes, vegetables, diced tomato and olive oil dressing)

A much more elaborate version of the cod dish above, this was similarly very fresh and well executed. The scallops were especially sweet and juicy, with a nice spring to the bite. Delightful.

Dessert (à la carte): fraises à la marocaine (Moroccan-style strawberries)

An alternative take on the classic French dessert coupe de fraises (strawberry cup), this was a wonderfully refreshing end to a wholesome meal. Fresh and juicy strawberries with a nice bite and just the right balance of sweetness and acidity were garnished with orange zest, chopped fresh mint leaves, and surrounded by a sweet and aromatic sauce infused with ras el hanout (a North African spice blend). I would find it difficult to imagine a dessert simpler, lighter and more agreeable than this.

Dessert (set menu): baba au rhum tradition (traditional rum baba)

A classic French dessert of rum-soaked sponge, this version came with a generous amount of chantilly cream and fruit toppings, surrounded by a syrupy rum glazing. I must admit to not being a fan of this dessert usually, because it is often too rich and alcoholic for me, but this one was surprisingly balanced; the cream felt agreeably light and non-cloying to the palate, and the rum, while present, was never overpowering. The sponge was moist and fluffy. Very well done indeed.

Some pictures of the restaurant taken after our dinner:

A poster of the great chef

'Food of the sun' -
an apt description of this restaurant's cooking style

Dinners at La Tour, Avignon

After Paris, we headed down south to Avignon for a change of landscape. As the gateway into the Provence region, Avignon is a popular base for tourists wishing to explore the lavender fields and little hilltop villages that are scattered round the incredibly beautiful countryside. The city itself is home to two important historical monuments, the Palais des Papes (medieval seat of the Popes before they moved back to Rome for good) and the Pont St. Benezet (also known as the 'Pont d'Avignon', and the inspiration behind the popular French folk song 'Sur le pont d'Avignon').

For two of the three nights that we were there, we had dinner at a local restaurant La Tour, which we found through Tripadvisor, not knowing any better about the culinary scene in Avignon. We had committed a cardinal foodie sin on the first night by going to a restaurant on the main square in front of the Palais des Papes that had menus in every imaginable language; I should have known better but was too tired to look for anything off the beaten track that evening (this tourist trap turned out to be extremely mediocre in food and service, and was also relatively expensive). So, I was determined to find something better for the rest of our stay in Avignon, and based on the reviews for La Tour, I figured we couldn't go very wrong.

This charming restaurant is located in a beautiful little courtyard off a side street in the city centre, on the grounds of a 14th-century tower (hence its name) and cellar used to store spices for the Palais des Papes. It is run by husband-and-wife team Yves (chef) and Isabelle (hostess). Chef Yves has trained in a couple of Michelin-starred restaurants and posh hotel kitchens in France, which looked extremely promising to me. Reservations are essential - as a very small business they can only handle a limited number of diners per sitting, and on both evenings we witnessed quite a few people who tried to simply walk in and got turned away by Isabelle in the friendliest possible manner.

To sit in the courtyard having dinner was a real pleasure - it was truly an oasis of peace and quiet amidst the hustle and bustle of the tourist areas not too far away. I feel that special mention is also due to Isabelle's excellent service; it was so warm and personal from the very beginning that we felt right at home.

Historical interior (in summer all diners are seated
outside in the courtyard unless they request otherwise)

La Tour offers two three-course menu options at 26 and 33 Euros, with two choices for each course (except for starters which are fixed) - extremely reasonable considering the quality of the food that we were about to get. We tried both menus over the two evenings, and between us covered all the dishes that the restaurant had to offer.

Amuse-bouche: vegetable tabbouleh with anchovy cream (both evenings).

This was the first time I've been offered an amuse-bouche in a casual restaurant - a truly nice and surprising gesture. This little morsel was delicious; the sweet and aromatic tabbouleh, with a nice crunch in the finely-chopped bits of vegetable and a firm bite to the grains, went hand-in-hand with the rich, velvety and savoury anchovy cream. I couldn't wait for the main meal to begin!

Menu 1 at 33 Euros

Starter: house smoked salmon, melon with gooseberries and mixed greens.

A very well presented dish with vibrant colours. A more healthy substitute for ham, the salmon was fresh and not too salty, and the fruits made for a juicy and refreshing complement. The one component that really stood out was the anise powder mixed with the diced melon; this sweet and intensely aromatic spice gave an interesting edge to an otherwise good but predictable flavour combination.

Main course: grilled French veal tenders, parmesan and tomato risotto.

A simple dish perhaps, but everything was cooked to perfection. The meat was incredibly tender and succulent, while the risotto was rich, creamy, and full of flavour, with individual grains still retaining a firm bite. The cherry tomato topping was particularly delightful - to have its fresh juices burst in the mouth upon chewing was a real pleasure.

Main course: fillet of John Dory, tagliatelle with eggplant and a sweet pepper sauce.

This was a brilliant dish - the fish, with its naturally rich and buttery texture, was cooked to a moist and velvety perfection. It is quite uncommon outside fine restaurants to find this premium fish, and even rarer to find chefs who really know what to do with it. The tagliatelle was done to a very nice al dente texture, and the accompaniments of chunks of naturally creamy eggplant as well as the sauce reinforced this picture of understated luxury.

Dessert: chocolate mousse, chocolate sorbet, and mixed red fruits.

Unashamedly indulgent, the mousse was extremely thick and creamy, while the sorbet, whilst possessing an unusual lightness, was no less intense in flavour. The chocolate used must have been of very high quality - full bodied with a long aftertaste. Luxurious.

Dessert: apricot, roasted and in sorbet, on an almond and white chocolate cake.

A healthier and equally delightful option making full use of the most common seasonal fruit. The contrast between the cold sorbet and the slightly warm roasted apricot and almond cake was most pleasurable. This dessert was also a study in textures, from the light and smooth sorbet, to the juicy roasted apricots, and the moist and grainy almond cake studded with velvety bits of white chocolate. A generous pool of subtly aromatic regional lavender honey on the side was a surprise touch that completed this picture of seasonal delights.

This first dinner was definitely on par with some of the Michelin-starred set lunches that I've had, and I didn't hesitate to give my compliments to Isabelle, who was obviously very pleased that we enjoyed the food so much. I really thought that we got much more than we paid for.

We were so impressed with the quality and portion sizes of the food that we decided to return the next evening on a whim, and we were very lucky that exactly one table was free!

There was a slight blooper at the beginning of this second dinner - Isabelle forgot about us after we were sat down, and we were kept waiting for the menu for about 10 minutes. Upon realising her mistake, she apologised promptly and offered us an additional side of olives after we ordered our food. Good service recovery, I must say.

Menu 2 at 26 Euros

Starter: terrine of poultry, sun-dried tomatoes and olives, mixed greens.

This was quite agreeable, if somewhat commonplace; the chicken remained reasonably moist, and though a tad bland itself, was compensated for by the tasty chunks of tomato and olives scattered throughout the terrine.

Main course: basil gratiné of Provençal lamb shoulder, brochette of potatoes.

This was an incredibly aromatic dish saturated by the fragrance of basil, a popular herb in Southern French cuisine. In the cocotte lay fork-tender and succulent chunks of lamb in a thick stew, topped by a generous layer of basil pesto. The characteristic smell of lamb that some people find repulsive was nowhere to be detected here; all that remained were mouthfuls of fragrant, full-bodied, melt-in-the-mouth goodness, waiting to be savoured. The skewer of roasted potatoes with a sprinkling of basil was also very good - crispy and aromatic on the outside, and light and fluffy on the inside. A most substantial and satisfying dish.

Main course: red mullet fillets with shredded courgettes, fried gnocchi, and basil pesto dressing.

The chef certainly knows what to do with fish - like the John Dory dish of the previous evening, this was done to perfection. Firm but moist, every mouthful was a pleasure. The fried chewy gnocchi was pure comfort food, while the generous mound of shredded courgettes provided a healthy balance. Lashings of aromatic basil pesto enhanced the appeal of this thoroughly enjoyable and wholesome dish.

Dessert: vanilla crème brûlée with a planter's sorbet.

A traditional dessert with a twist - the crème brûlée was exceptional, with soft wobbly custard infused with the rich flavours of vanilla. The presence of crushed real vanilla pods throughout the custard was proof of its authenticity and high quality. This rich component was balanced by a small glass of sorbet (in name) that was really a margarita (it even comes with salt along the rim and a straw); curiously named 'planter's sorbet', it was actually a concoction designed by Isabelle herself, consisting of rum, exotic fruits, and cinnamon - rum being the dominant flavour almost at the expense of everything else unfortunately, but still a refreshing complement to its more indulgent other half nonetheless.

Dessert: iced peach delicacy, chocolate sauce.

This was one pairing I didn't understand; the peach parfait was excellent to begin with - so light in texture, flavourful, yet not cloyingly sweet - and the addition of a strangely watery and weak chocolate sauce nearly spoiled it. It would have been much better to leave the chocolate out of the picture, and let the quality of the fruit shine through undisturbed.

Summary notes: fantastic value for money, good location in the city centre yet not touristy, peaceful, cosy ambience, extremely genuine and personal service. This was authentic home-style cooking with passion, and ingredients were of a consistently high quality. With a few minor tweaks to the food, this little restaurant could be destined for greater accolades. It is one establishment to which I'll certainly return if I'm ever in Avignon again.

Lunch 'Le déjeuner des jardiniers' at L'Arpège, Paris

As a food lover on holiday recently in France, I knew I had to do at least one top restaurant in the country. Unfortunately, from a gastronomic perspective I had probably planned to be there at the wrong time - the summer months of July and August are when many of the best establishments in France close for an extended break. Also, Michelin-starred restaurants in the French capital are astronomically expensive, and to find one that fit my budget was quite a challenge.

Eventually, I made reservations for lunch this afternoon at Alain Passard's L'Arpège round the corner from my hotel. Passard is a well-respected figure within France's culinary circles and has mentored many successful young chefs, not least of which is Pascal Barbot (chef patron of L'Astrance, 3 Michelin stars and currently No. 18 on St. Pellegrino's list). Passard has distinguished himself from his fine-dining colleagues by his special love for vegetables and insistence that only the best should be served to his customers; fresh organic produce arrives daily from his farms around Paris. While this is not an exclusively vegetarian restaurant, the emphasis is definitely on the best seasonal fruit and vegetables available, and vegetarian customers would feel right at home!

Very discreet exterior, in a quiet side road near the Invalides area

Bright and colourful table setting

Fresh tomatoes used as table decoration -
did you know there were so many different types?!

I went for the lunch tasting menu, very fancily titled Le déjeuner des jardiniers (The Gardeners' Lunch); this seemed to be the most common and sensible option, at 8 courses for 120 Euros. There is a full tasting menu of 10 courses at 320 Euros (eye-popping to most, but a pretty standard price in Parisian restaurants of this rank actually), and à la carte options range from 52 Euros for a salad to 140 Euros for a lobster dish (you read that right) - all of which were obviously priced out of my budget.

So, yes, I wasn't going to get all the bells and whistles by picking the cheapest menu option in the restaurant - but if you'd be dead wrong if you thought that the food would be also be of relatively inferior quality. The amuse-bouche that opened this meal was testimony to Passard's love for vegetables and set the tone for the rest of the afternoon:

A plate of incredibly pretty and dainty creamed vegetable tartlettes provided an amazing array of flavours on top of a delicate parmesan crust. There was broccoli with an incredibly juicy tomato (very fresh and clean-tasting), carrot with baby radish (very sweet), and fennel with zucchini (refreshing and subtly aromatic). A most delightful start to the meal.

Bread and butter followed next; the bread was decidedly unspectacular but the salted butter was revelatory - light, velvety and supple in texture, with a slightly nutty aftertaste; I'd never had anything like it. Upon asking my server, he revealed that it was from the iconic Jean-Yves Bordier of St. Malo, a favourite of gourmands (Guy Savoy also serves it at his 3-starred Paris flagship) - certainly a tastebud-opener for me!

(Click here for more info on the exclusive JYB butter)

First course: gaspacho de tomates au naturel, crème glacée céleri à la moutarde d'Orléans (tomato gaspacho with celeriac and Orléans mustard ice cream)

This chilled tomato soup is a very common starter for hot summers. Passard's version was incredibly smooth and consistent in texture (no tiny lumps or fibres whatsoever present) and had just the right balance of sweetness and acidity. The soup was made even more refreshing by its celeriac ice-cream accompaniment, and spicy hints of mustard gave the whole dish a subtle kick. To top it all off, generous lashings of high quality olive oil on the ice cream enhanced not only the fruity flavours of the dish, but also its light and velvety texture. Simple yet luxurious.

Second course: sushi légumier fleuri aux feuilles de figuier, transparence de betterave (vegetarian beetroot sushi with red cabbage, fig leaf oil and Orléans mustard sauce)

This was incredibly pretty to look at and tasted just as heavenly - I was instantly reminded of the excellent vegetarian sushi course that I had last year towards the end of my kaiseki lunch at Kikunoi in Kyoto. This version here is of course a Westernised one - no Japanese horseradish (wasabi) or soy sauce, which would have overwhelmed the subtle vegetable flavours in this case - but no less effective. Beneath the juicy and crunchy vegetable toppings sat a well-seasoned grainy paste of beetroot and mustard (sweet, suprisingly savoury and just very slightly spicy) upon a perfectly shaped and cooked mound of rice, with individual grains retaining a firm bite and radiating a pearly shine (respect to the Western chefs for getting this right!). Around the piece of sushi was a pool of the most delicate fig leaf oil, a very unusual condiment with a subtle aroma and taste, that served as the perfect foil for this charming study in textures and flavours. Who needs the fish when fruits and vegetables can be this good?

Third course: couleur, saveur, parfum, et dessin des jardins, création éphémère (the title is poetic - this was essentially an assortment of vegetable dumplings served in a fennel consommé)

I must confess to being rather disappointed at first glance, by the rather nondescript presentation in a metal bowl (I still find it hard to match this dish with such a poetic description), but any doubts I had about the potential of this dish were dispelled within seconds. The fragrance of fennel was immediately striking and intoxicating, and the broth was surprisingly savoury - perfect when taken together with the fresh and sweet vegetable dumplings. The dumplings themselves were pretty good too; two of them, one with tomato and the other with garlic amongst other herbs, made a particularly strong impression with their characteristic flavours. However, it was really the excellent consommé which gave character and focus to an otherwise commonplace bowl of dumplings.

Fourth course: cucurbitacées en fin velouté, crème soufflée au hareng fumé (sage and zucchini velouté, topped with Chantilly cream flavoured with smoked herring)

Despite its humble appearance, this was utterly amazing in taste and texture. Similar to the first course (but warm), this was a completely smooth, sweet and aromatic soup, made even more indulgent by an incredibly light and fluffy cream topping, with a wonderful smoky flavour. The precise balance of sweet and savoury flavours, and the combination of aromas from the sage and smoked herring infusions, were nothing short of an understated miracle.

Fifth course: Jardinère 'Arlequin' acidulée au géranium, carotte jaune du Doubs, concombre lemon, haricot cupidon... (crunchy vegetable 'Arlequin' with yellow Doubs carrot, cucumber, lemon, beans etc., dressed by a sweet and sour sauce made of honey and geranium from Passard's garden, and sprinkling of beetroot-infused salt)

I could tell that this meal was progressing swiftly to a climax - this dish made a real impact with its presentation. The colours were absolutely brilliant and pleasing to the eye. More importantly, this beautiful vegetable salad tasted as good as it looked - the freshness and vibrancy of the components will speak for themselves. The dressing and salt sprinkling enhanced the flavours of the salad effectively without overpowering their subtle nature.

Sixth course: ecailles ou plumes, reflet de la gourmandise (a choice between fish and meat; I picked the turbot roasted on the bone with white wine sauce, smoked potato, cabbage leaf and sage flower)

This was the only real non-vegetarian course of the lunch and its crowning glory. I've had turbot in many fine restaurants by now, but none as silky and delicate in texture as this, which is astonishing since turbot is naturally quite meaty and substantial. The fish was certainly something to remember for a very long time. Of the accompaniments, the humble smoked potato stood out in particular; its compelling aroma was the first to strike me and pretty much set the stage for this hugely appealing and savoury dish. The little sage flower behind the potato also enhanced the aesthetics of the dish and served as an aromatic palate-cleanser after finishing up the rest of the plate.

Seventh course (cheese): collection caprine de Malicorne-sur-Sarthe, ferme de la Souche (an assortment of farm goat cheeses from Malicorne-sur-Sarthe)

From right to left, I tasted three goat cheeses within increasing periods of maturity: fresh (raw), 1 week, 2 weeks. I thought that the 2-week cheese would be too strong for my taste, but surprisingly that was the one I liked the most; its full-bodied flavour was the best match for the extremely spicy and nutty rocket and mustard cress salad that accompanied my cheeses.

An impressive array of mignardises followed soon after my cheeses, before dessert:

On the tray lay 3 pieces each of plum and almond dragée pastry (sweet-sour, nutty, crunchy, flaky pastry bottom - nice), tomato and sage macaron (my favourite, sweet, savoury and aromatic), rhubarb and Angelica macaron (a little too sour for my taste), Vermont dark chocolate, rosemary white chocolate (both amazing with a long aftertaste and the flavours of the alcohol and herb riding along), thyme guimauve (a traditional French confectionery very similar to a marshmallow; this one was intensely aromatic with refreshing notes of lemon), apple tart in the shape of a rose (the classic Passard dessert in miniature form; in terms of proportion a little too much dough to apple, I thought).

Eight course (dessert): a plum and vanilla cream millefeuille with plum compote.

If I had any reservations at all about the lunch it would have to be with this dish. The plum was extremely tart and left the dish somewhat unbalanced even with the presence of sweet vanilla cream and buttered pastry layers. As you can see there wasn't much of a filling to begin with - most of it was pastry and huge empty pockets of air - and it looked rather sloppily put together. In hindsight, compared to the densely-packed and indulgent millefeuille I bought off the counter at Pierre Hermé a few days later, this was rather forgettable.

Moving on from my disappointment about the dessert, I finished the meal with an excellent infusion of herbs from Passard's garden:

After lunch I asked to have a photograph with Passard (he was really approachable and obliged readily) as well as to see the kitchen. Normally the latter would not have been possible because of lots of staff movement within an extremely small space, but because it was nearing the end of the lunch sitting and less busy (only desserts left for most tables) I was allowed a quick peek into the kitchen. I even had a photograph with the entire kitchen team (they were really friendly and sporting!).

With Alain Passard

Full house on a Friday afternoon

Foldable knife which one uses throughout the meal
and is then asked to take home as a souvenir

I left the restaurant feeling healthy and satisfied due to the generally light nature of the cuisine. This is not the place to visit if you're expecting heavy, buttery flavours that are typical of so many French dishes, but if you appreciate subtlety and precision in cooking and presentation you'll be richly rewarded. Service was generally excellent, from our server who answered my questions on the food patiently to the ebullient manageress (she spoke flawless English) who welcomed me very warmly, checked on me throughout the meal to make sure everything was alright, offered to take photographs, and took me into the kitchen at the end. 

I'd noticed that some neighbouring tables ordering the same menu had a little complimentary course during their meal, but I suppose that was due to their expensive wine orders; a young couple next to me only had water (probably just like me who refuses to pay for insanely marked-up wines at posh restaurants) and also didn't receive anything extra from the kitchen - I guess all is fair in the name of business!

While customers would generally appreciate the nice gesture of a parting gift in the form of the foldable knife, it would also be nice if the kitchen actually offered to clean it before allowing them to take it home - I gather from some reviews in the past that guests have politely declined taking a used, dirty knife with them (and rightly so). I wasn't going to make a big fuss about this since the blade could be folded inwards and was at no actual risk of ripping/staining my clothes, but this is definitely an area for improvement.

All in all, it had been a pleasant way to spend an afternoon and I'll definitely be back when I can comfortably afford the full tasting menu!