Dinners at Le Turon, Tours

I am back at the summer course in Tours, France, which I first attended two years ago, and I certainly didn't forget to relive my foodie memories of Le Turon, a lively and unpretentious bistro great for social gatherings and reasonably-priced French classics. Prices have gone up by a few euros since then but remain well within expectations. I had two dinners here with different people over the course of the week, and this post reviews both visits.

Yesterday evening, I came with a singer friend, and both of us went for the Menu Gourmand, now priced at €24.50 for 2 courses or €29.50 for 3 courses. I went for 3 courses whilst she went for 2.

Starter: duck foie gras presented three ways - 'au torchon', in a macaron and in crème brûlée.

Nothing could be more luxurious and more French than a starter of foie gras. 2 years ago I had a similar dish with toast under the Menu Gourmand, though with just a slice of foie gras terrine matched with various condiments, that was in hindsight less interesting than the one I had before me now. The increased creative effort was evident and effective, and showcased foie gras in various preparations from the traditional to the unexpected. First, 'au torchon' (lit. 'in a towel'), in which a whole lobe of foie gras is wrapped in a towel and slow-cooked in a bain-marie, then compressed, chilled and sliced. I thought that this method best highlighted the foie gras' deep muskiness, and the resulting thick and smooth creaminess made for the perfect spread on crispy toast. The other two variations were no less stellar; for the macaron, a rich foie gras mousse filling was sandwiched between two airy and crisp biscuits with a pleasant caramelised taste, while the crème brûlée displayed perfect balance between the sweet and savoury, with small chunks of foie gras amply mixed into the egg-and-vanilla custard to produce the most concentrated explosion of flavours within that mini ramekin. Artery-clogging perhaps, but no regrets licking the plate clean!

Main: lamb shoulder slow-cooked for 7 hours in Chinon wine.

The signature main of Le Turon, this generous ball of meat was utterly tender, juicy and melt-in-the-mouth from the long and gradual cooking process. Its robust flavour was effectively complemented by the equally full-bodied and spicy wine sauce, with a good amount of tannins to maintain the balance of this otherwise indulgent dish. The roasted potatoes were very good too - caramelised to the right degree and crisp on the outside with a sprinkling of dried herbs for additional aromas, and fluffy and non-greasy on the inside.

Main: roasted goose fillet with 'poires tapées'.

Poires tapées (lit. 'flattened pear') is a summer specialty of the Loire Valley, in which pears are peeled and gently heated on racks in ovens for three days to caramelise and soften them. They are then left out in the sun to dry completely, then flattened with a mechanical press known as a platissouerre. The dried pears are typically rehydrated in Chinon wine before consumption, and are used to accompany red meats. Here, the concentrated sweetness of the pear strips, with a hint of astringency from the wine, was a refreshing balance for the deep gamey flavour of the roasted goose. The pear's firm, juicy and somewhat chewy texture also matched the meat's succulent bite very well. The skin was nicely browned and quite crisp, and the roasting juices were very tasty. On the whole, this dish was extremely satisfying and enjoyable.

Dessert: apricots roasted in rosemary, topped with candyfloss ice cream.

Perfect for anyone with a sweet tooth, the roasted apricots were firm and fleshy, with an intense sweetness that came from the combination of reduction of juices, caramelisation of natural fruit sugars and the infusion of floral piney aromas from fresh rosemary. The surrounding roasting juices, enlivened with a dash of apricot liqueur, contained the essences of both the fruit and herb. To top it off was a large scoop of candyfloss ice cream, unusual in French cuisine but nonetheless very nostalgic with its unique toasty and almost cloying taste. Fresh strawberries and a twig of rosemary completed this dessert that was as delicious as it was visually appealing.

Dessert: strawberry gazpacho with 'floating island'.

This was a fruitier (and healthier) take on the classic French dessert 'île flottante' (lit. 'floating island'), in which a mound of soft plain meringue is usually surrounded by a pool of vanilla custard sauce. Here, the custard sauce was replaced by a very light and tangy soup of strawberries with dashes of strawberry coulis. The meringue itself was extremely airy and fluffy despite its intense sweetness. As a whole, this dessert felt perfectly balanced and easy on the stomach after the rather substantial preceding courses - a lovely way to end the dinner indeed.

This evening, I returned with a group of Japanese friends from the course. They were rather small eaters and chose just one or two courses each from the slightly cheaper Menu Détente, which made me look like such a glutton as I continued with a full 3 courses from the Menu Gourmand. Haha...

Bread with a dip of crushed green and black olives in olive oil to start.

Starter (Menu Gourmand): carpaccio of scallop marinated in chorizo.

Freshness is paramount when dealing with raw seafood, and the thinly sliced scallops here did not disappoint. They were very sweet and juicy, and their natural umami was enhanced by marination in a smoky and savoury chorizo oil, with strips of real chorizo and aromatic chopped chives to boot. The taste of chorizo is quite strong (like all cured meats) and could have easily overpowered the delicate flavour of the scallops, but fortunately this dish was surprisingly well-balanced and effective.

Salad (à la carte): large seafood salad with smoked salmon, prawns, white asparagus, diced tomatoes, mesclun, cream cheese with chives and a sprinkling of Espelette pepper.

A meal in itself for one of my friends, this huge salad featured an impressive mound of crisp mixed leaves topped with a good amount of succulent seafood, sweet and juicy white asparagus, and a generous dollop of tangy and aromatic cream cheese to keep things fresh and light throughout. The portion was quite incredible; this would certainly suffice if you're not a big eater.

Starter (Menu Détente): salad with pork confit and a crispy crêpe with a filling of warm Sainte-Maure cheese.

This was extremely representative of the region's produce. The pork confit ('rillons' in French) is a Touraine specialty that is made pretty much the same way as duck confit. Chunks of pork breast are marinated in salt and herbs for hours, then slow-cooked at low temperatures in lard, and finally preserved in sealed jars, also in its own (filtered) fat. The two slices here bore a striking similarity to gammon in appearance, but were infinitely more tender, succulent and tasty than the latter. The surface of the meat was also very nicely browned and crisp, just like the skin of a great duck confit. In the foreground lay a wrap with two discs of Touraine Sainte-Maure cheese, an unpasteurised white, soft and creamy goat's cheese made from full-fat milk, and presented in the form of a small cylindrical log. This cheese had a slightly salty taste which made for a great match to the rillons, and its fresh nutty walnut-like aroma went perfectly with the mildly bitter and spicy salad leaves below. Final lashings of a rather puckering vinaigrette kept this otherwise indulgent starter in a good balance.

Main (Menu Détente): casserole of monkfish, scallops, red mullet and salmon with rice and béchamel sauce.

This was simple and effective - a generous variety of stewed seafood with rice, topped with lashings of béchamel sauce; what could go wrong? The fishes and shellfish were all very fresh, moist and full of distinctive flavours that were aptly enhanced by the warm, buttery and milky sauce. The sauce also worked well with the plain cooked rice and saved it from coming across as too dry, which is a common problem with the Western method of cooking rice in a pot by simply boiling off all the water within. On the whole, this dish was very homely and satisfying.

Dessert (Menu Gourmand): moelleux au chocolat (chef's recipe) and vanilla ice-cream.

I first had this dessert here two years ago, and was very glad that it has remained on the menu despite changes to many other dishes in the meantime. Nobody knows how to handle chocolate better than the French, and this moist and fluffy chocolate sponge with an oozing intense dark chocolate centre was still every bit as good as I had remembered it to be. The vanilla custard and ice cream with traces of real vanilla pods were also very aromatic and authentic. Compared to two years ago, I noticed some extra touches for balance and texture; first, a tangy raspberry coulis and fresh strawberry for refreshment amidst this indulgence, and secondly a long thin biscuit perched atop the ice-cream for an additional crisp bite. I couldn't have imagined a better way to finish a traditional French meal.

Definitely (still) worth a visit if you're in town!