This afternoon my family and I went for a rather unusual Japanese lunch. Of course we are no strangers to Japanese food, but today we would be having shojin-ryori (精進料理), a unique vegetarian cuisine originating in China and brought to the Zen temples of Kyoto by Japanese monks who had studied in China. True to the strict principles of Buddhism, this cuisine further prohibits the use of onion, leek, garlic and other pungent vegetables and herbs, as they are believed to arouse unnecessary emotions. Despite all these restrictions, shojin-ryori is still known for its incredibly diverse use and artful preparation of (permitted) vegetables, legumes and fruits.
Actually it wasn't our first time with this cuisine - we've had authentic shojin-ryori in Kyoto - but it was definitely a first in Singapore for all of us. The man in charge of today's lunch was Singapore-born banker-turned-chef Danny Chu, who remains to date the only Singaporean, and probably one of very few foreigners, to have studied this cuisine seriously with Japanese monks in Kyoto. He had run his shojin-ryori restaurant Enso Kitchen for a few years in Singapore before relocating to Taiwan, and although based overseas now still returns to offer his creations to fans of this unique Zen vegetarian cuisine for two weekends every quarterly. These special visits are based in Goto restaurant in the Chinatown area, which itself isn't purely vegetarian, but its Japanese owner-chef is apparently good friends with Danny Chu. Needless to say, reservations are essential, and they go out very quickly after specific dates are announced for each quarter - only 8 slots per lunch/dinner service on two Saturdays and Sundays, if I'm not wrong. We arrived with great anticipation.
The first thing that struck me about this restaurant was how many beautiful Japanese artworks were displayed. Apparently they were acquired by the original chef-owner of this restaurant upon his visits back home, and some of them are even for sale to keen diners! Unfortunately, as Danny is merely borrowing this space for his visits he couldn't sell anything, even though one or two pieces caught my eye.
Of course, it would be impossible (and unfair) to expect an exact replication of the authentic temple environment in which shojin-ryori is typically served, but in spirit this restaurant did exude a calm elegance the moment we stepped in, and set us in the right state of mind to enjoy this cuisine. Still, I kind of missed those well-appointed tatami rooms and highly pruned rock gardens. Japanese cuisines, in their most sophisticated and ideal forms, are not just about the food but also about the overall setting, with tableware, artworks and garden designs etc. to match the seasons.
Despite Singapore's tropical climate, today's lunch had been advertised as a 'winter' set, and I was eager to see how the chef would incorporate this seasonal aspect into his dishes. To start, we were served a lovely cup of genmaicha (green tea with roasted brown rice) with a deep nutty aroma, smooth texture and delicate astringency. Originally considered the poor person's tea due to the usage of brown rice as a filler, it was also drunk by people fasting for religious purposes - an entirely apt choice here then! The chopsticks were made of real wood (not the cheap disposable type) - can't remember when it was that I last used them in a Japanese restaurant! This place means business.
The lacquered chopstick holder didn't go unnoticed either - with a plum blossom drawn against a shimmering gold background this was all at once luxurious yet understated, and seasonally fitting.
There is no menu - everyone is served the same food which includes an appetiser, a main bento set made up of several small dishes, rice and soup, and finally, dessert.
Appetiser: shirogoma (white sesame) tofu with fresh wasabi and soy sauce.
I am used to the very firm and substantial texture of Japanese tofu (especially those served in shojin-ryori) so I was quite surprised to find out that this had an unusually chewy and doughy texture. It was also shaped like a dumpling, unlike the rectangular blocks of shojin tofu that I have seen. It was pretty and interesting in its own way but I would have preferred using the stronger and nuttier black sesame in making the tofu, so as to match the deep umami of soy sauce. Fresh wasabi provided just the right kick without the eye watering spiciness of the fake tubed versions one sees at most Japanese restaurants nowadays (even in Japan). I am always impressed when chefs make the effort to use fresh wasabi, more so when this takes place outside Japan.
Main bento
Green asparagus tips with diced tomatoes and shredded shiso. I found it somewhat strange to feature asparagus in a winter menu, but having been carefully blanched these still retained a delicate sweetness and crunchy bite. Combined with juicy diced tomatoes and green shiso leaves with their characteristic minty basil/licorice-like aroma, the whole dish felt very clean and refreshing.
Daikon with yuzu miso. Things couldn't have gotten simpler and better. This soft and incredibly sweet and juicy winter radish was paired with a touch of miso that provided a delightfully fresh and savoury edge. The balance of flavours was perfect, and if I had anything to complain about it would be that there was too little of that wonderful miso - I can never get enough of the unique citrusy taste of yuzu!
Trio of cold pickles: (from left to right) tomato and ginger, lotus root marinated with lemon, and nagaimo (Japanese mountain yam) with ume (plum) sauce. The first was sweet and mildly spicy but neither particularly interesting nor harmonious. The second was lovely; it was my first time having fresh lotus root (they are usually boiled in soups) and I found these marinated slices extremely crunchy, with a refreshing aftertaste from the lemon. The last was my favourite; naturally crunchy and gooey sticks of yam were covered in a delightful sweet-sour sauce. The combination of rich textures and clean flavours was both interesting and stimulating to the palate.
Vegetarian chawanmushi (using millet instead of eggs), with ginko nuts, mushrooms, and mashed, moulded and fried water chestnut balls. Like a rich rice pudding with as many toppings as one could squeeze in, this small cup packed a real punch with its unexpectedly substantial weight. There was a delightful myriad of textures here, and I loved the water chestnut ball best for its delicate sweetness and juicy crunch. In fact, despite the bowl's apparently luxurious contents, the dish as a whole remained very light in taste - comfort food probably doesn't get more wholesome than this.
Clear vegetable soup with dried tofu skin and mushrooms. Not the usual miso soup one expects in a Japanese meal, this was naturally sweet and full of earthy aromas. Very pleasant.
Rice with shiso. The texture of the rice was good, with well-defined individual grains and a soft sticky bite, but it could have done with more shiso topping, and it could also have been served warmer in order to fully unleash its own as well as the shiso's aromas. This felt just like any other bowl of rice, inoffensive but uninteresting.
Finally, dessert was berries, pumpkin cake and mochi (rice balls) with kinako (soybean) powder. The texture of the mochi was simply exceptional - very soft and almost melt-in-the-mouth, with none of that irritating chewiness and sticking to one's teeth. I've never had anything like it until now. The coating of kinako powder gave a pleasant roasted edge to the mochi's gentle sweet taste. By contrast, the pumpkin cake had a rich texture that was fortunately not too starchy, and a concentrated sweetness that attested to the purity of the fruit in the mix.
I loved the plate used for dessert; it represented a Japanese crane, with beak and tail feathers painted in gold - really luxurious and elegant. The crane is a traditional symbol of good fortune and longevity in Japan. How I wished I could take the plate home!
Apparently, the mochi is a specialty of Enso Kitchen and customers who come to lunch or dinner are also welcome to pre-order a maximum of one box ($18 each for 15 pieces) per person for take-away (to be consumed within 3 days since it's all freshly made with no preservatives). We didn't miss out of course, and had two boxes of this heavenly stuff waiting for us at the end of the meal.
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| With Danny Chu, the very amicable and down-to-earth chef. |
Service this afternoon was polite and attentive, and the atmosphere was largely restful and refined - but the restaurant really could have done without piped music to promote a more Zen-like environment, with truly no distractions from the mindfulness essential in savouring this cuisine. In hindsight, I also felt that while there had been some laudable attempts to use high-quality decorative tableware, authentic shojin-ryori typically uses only plain red-and-black lacquered crockery to convey an impression of austerity, so in fact the crockery here was too elaborate and could have detracted occasionally from the subtle flavours of the food.
At $45 before taxes, the set menu might seem rather pricey by Singaporean standards (especially for vegetarian food), but it is actually commensurate with what is charged at Japanese temples. One also needs to take into account the oft-underestimated skill involved in preparing these seemingly simple dishes. Although the produce for this meal wasn't all procured from Japan (for logistic and economic reasons), their quality was still well above that of the food served at most vegetarian restaurants in Singapore. Even though I still think that nothing beats having shojin-ryori in Kyoto, I would recommend this to anyone seeking a unique Japanese dining experience in Singapore. Look out for Danny's next visit on Enso's website!
