A taste of Asia at Restaurant Tim Raue, Berlin

This afternoon, we headed to Restaurant Tim Raue for what was supposed to be the culinary highlight of our short Berlin trip. Tim Raue, a sort of enfant terrible in German gastronomic circles, is well known for his unusual love and reinterpretation of various Asian cuisines, often travelling to the Far East to learn about various exotic ingredients and recipes. His flagship restaurant has just obtained a second Michelin star this year in recognition of its increasing standards and popularity. As part of his efforts to promote Asian cuisines amongst the German public, he has also recently opened a second and more casual restaurant Sua Bra in the luxury Hotel Adlon, serving dishes with strong Thai and Japanese influences.

Why, you ask, would we as Asian people want to go for our cuisines interpreted by a German chef? Would the same spices and ingredients not be more aptly and skilfully utilised by cooks from the region without all this 'fusion' or 'pan-Asian' hype? Nevertheless, we thought that the Michelin guide couldn't be too far off the mark, and so we approached the restaurant with an open mind, eager to be surprised and maybe even enlightened about the possibilities of this vast culinary repertoire which we'd come to take for granted.

The restaurant is not the easiest place to find. Unusually located near to Checkpoint Charlie in a somewhat gritty and industrial part of town, it is the last kind of area in which one would expect to find a top gourmet restaurant. The nondescript façade blends so well into the generally bleak architectural style of the area that we walked right past the restaurant twice, wondering where it was exactly. It took us some time to finally locate its entrance through a private courtyard.

Raue's love of all things Asian is immediately evident from the pair of Chinese guardian lions at the door. The reception area contains some rather tacky cushions in the form of various exotic animals, as well as a pair of jade pixiu sculptures, which are mythical Chinese winged lions playing the role of protector in the practice of fengshui. Our initial impression of the restaurant was one of amusing incongruity with its somewhat grey and depressing environment.

A friendly front-of-house staff led us past the open kitchen and private dining area to our table in the sleek and cosy main dining room. Spacious and bright with lots of natural light, the atmosphere was casual and relaxed, and we felt at ease very quickly. The Asian theme continued in the austere and elegant table setting consisting of linen tablecloths (not the usual thick white ones covering the whole table), lemongrass scented towels, a vase of purple orchids, chopsticks (the Western cutlery only came in later) and Japanese-style crockery. Everything felt pleasantly familiar.

Not surprisingly, bread and butter are not part of the service routine here. Instead, what we got even before being presented with the menu, was a lovely array of Asian-style nibbles not unlike what one might expect before a Korean feast.

First up, sakura ebi sashimi with cognac sauce and cocktail dressing. Despite its diminutive size, the Japanese shrimps were plump, fresh and sweet, and sparing amounts of sauce and dressing gave them a good depth of flavour without overwhelming their naturally delicate taste. Quite impressive.

Next, cucumber slices marinated in black vinegar. I am personally not a fan of these Chinese-style pickles as I don't like the taste and smell of black vinegar (very different from a good balsamico, I should emphasise), so I probably took just 2 pieces. To the kitchen's credit, these were pretty authentic with an expectedly sharp acidic taste, and the cucumber had a nice juicy crunch.

To follow were cashew nuts seasoned with yellow curry powder. Perfect for snacking, these were incredibly tasty and moreish, and disappeared into our tummies all too soon!

Finally, dashi crackers with satay duck liver. Probably the most sophisticated of the four appetisers, the weightlessness of these morsels belied an incredible umami that came from dashi (a classic Japanese stock made from kelp and bonito) in the cracker base, and bits of musky duck liver on top. The mildly spicy satay seasoning accentuated the already rich taste of duck liver with a nice kick to the palate, and a nutty edge from finely-ground peanuts within. Creamy and crunchy with a perfect balance of flavours, this was the ideal canapé.

Meanwhile, the menu had been presented to us and our lunch options explained. There was an impressive variety to choose from, and one could take between 3 to 6 courses in any combination of starters, main courses and desserts. Each member of the party is allowed to choose a different number of dishes if desired. A selection of more complex dishes from the tasting menus are also available at a supplement. Two tasting menus are offered (for the whole table) but we were there to try as many different dishes as possible, and the lunch menu was considerably cheaper (even after all the dishes that came with a supplement) so it definitely made sense to do that. Between the two of us we covered 12 dishes this afternoon, which is almost the entire lunch menu except for 1 dish from each category! We noticed many familiar Asian ingredients and cuisines in the menu descriptions and were very intrigued as to how these might turn out. (By contrast, the tasting menus appear to be somewhat more Westernised.)

I'm not sure if one would consider this a service glitch but considering that so much of Asian food culture revolves around communality and the sharing of many different types of dishes, it was quite bewildering that our waitress insisted that our individual orders be clearly separate even though it was quite clear that we would be sharing every dish. I had hoped that the dishes could arrive in succession like they do in a Chinese restaurant, with a small plate for each diner, but I suppose this is a Western establishment after all, and sharing in this manner probably doesn't convey an appropriately formal and posh image. (I do know that some excellent restaurants actually go out of their way to plate each half-portion individually when accommodating such sharing requests - whatever the culinary style - but I wasn't expecting that.) Anyway, we ended up doing our own thing and switched plates halfway through each dish, to the bemusement of some of our fellow diners.

The starters arrived soon after we had finished the appetisers. In a succession of pairs, we had:

Starter 1: raw Ikarimi salmon, with a sauce of grapefruit, sesame oil and vanilla, and garnished with fresh sesame and grapefruit.

A unique take on the ubiquitous Japanese salmon sashimi, this was an excellent way to start. The premium sashimi-grade salmon slices were extremely moist and firm, with a deep flavour. In place of the typical soy sauce dip was a generous pool of grapefruit sauce, whose surprisingly mild tartness effectively enhanced the freshness of the fish. The sauce was also masterfully tempered by warm touches of sweet vanilla and aromatic sesame oil. In particular, the sesame oil was what nailed it for me as a person of Chinese origin - characteristically nutty, but not overpoweringly so. This clean, balanced and sophisticated dish was a clear winner.

Starter 2: lobster with lobster cream and lobster crackers, mandarin gelée, mango sauce, paprika and green Thai pepper. (8€ supplement)

This sounded very promising but turned out to be a mixture of hits and misses. Visually, it was very beautifully plated indeed. The fresh lobster chunks were slightly chewy (an indication of overcooking) but still edible. With only 4 small pieces though, it was a tad miserable even by 'budget' lunch standards. The lobster-derived cream and crackers were excellent in both texture and flavour. The citrus jelly was also an apt touch in enhancing the delicate taste of the lobster. However, the one thing that really killed the dish was the mango sauce - the latter was so overwhelmingly plentiful and sweet that it would have all but wiped out the natural crustacean flavours, were I to finish it. Exotic? Yes. Effective? Not quite. We both love the taste of mango but that really wasn't the point here. Furthermore, (but less offensively) I found the usage of whole peppercorns in addition to paprika somewhat excessive as well - again, we both love spicy food, but chew into one of those green balls and you won't be able to taste anything else in this dish. To be sure, these were all excellent individual components which could have been made to work really well together had their balance been more carefully thought out.

Starter 3: dim sum 'lamb, cumin and pomelo', with bean sauce and a sprinkling of Espelette pepper.

Unfortunately, the disappoinments continued with this dish and in hindsight I can safely say that this was the worst dish of the afternoon, despite the 'dim sum' items being this restaurant's signature lunch dishes. The lamb filling was very dry and the dumpling skin was way too thick. If the kitchen is serious about making these steamed delicacies properly, the chefs might do well to undertake a study trip to Hong Kong or Beijing. I also had my doubts about the accompaniments - pomelo is rather fibrous and not naturally very juicy, so it only reinforced my negative impression of the dry lamb filling, and I couldn't see how it contributed to the overall flavour profile of the dish. Ditto the bean sauce - not sure of its role either. However there was a single saving grace in the use of spices - both cumin and Espelette pepper were effective in masking any excessive natural smells from the meat, whilst stimulating the palate with lovely aromas. Not recommended on the whole, though, unless cooking technique and accompaniments are significantly improved.

Starter 4: dim sum 'suckling pig, leek and ginger', topped with Japanese mayonnaise and shredded fresh spring onion, with leek cream and suckling pig sauce.

An imitation of Japanese gyoza or pan-fried pork dumplings, this was much better than the previous dumpling dish. The skins were still too thick but the filling was much juicier, if a tad meagre in portion. Bits of leek and ginger within the rich pork filling imparted a fresh spicy kick and lovely aromas. The pan-frying also enhanced the overall flavour of the dumplings and produced a nicely browned and crispy base in each. Not too sure about the generic mayonnaise topping though - it seemed to belong more in fast food restaurants than in gourmet temples, and it didn't do anything to enhance the multitude of flavours in a carefully cooked dish, even if it was inoffensive. The other sauces were excellent though - dollops of leek cream with a subtle sweetness and delightful fragrance, and an appropriate amount of pork sauce whose light colour belied a lovely depth of flavour.

Starter 5: dim sum 'calamari and five spice, lime', mayonnaise dip with chilli, sauce mixture of jalapeño and Japanese mustard.

A common street snack in many parts of Asia (and made to look so here with the Chinese newspaper cutout), this was again slightly disappointing. By the time the dish was served, the calamari had cooled off and its batter had become soggy. Hot and crispy it wasn't for sure, though the calamari itself was nicely cooked and still quite tender, while five-spice powder in the batter mix delivered a pleasant umami and kick. A slice of lime and dollops of spicy green sauce on the calamari rings helped to counter any sense of greasiness effectively. The only thing that really bothered me, again, was the dip - nothing screams 'cheap' more than the use of generic mayonnaise, regardless of whether it was home-made or squeezed out of a bottle. Admittedly the chilli (wasabi?) mixed into the mayonnaise did give a nice kick, but it felt somewhat redundant considering that we already had the spicy green sauce. Surely a two Michelin-starred restaurant could come up with a more sophisticated condiment even for a 'budget' menu?

Main courses followed, and after a couple of lacklustre starters we were hoping that things would pick up with these very attractive-sounding dishes.

Main course 1: turbot and kailan (Chinese kale) with slices of young ginger and chopped cashew nuts, in a thick sauce of veal and fish stock with a dash of yuzu (a Japanese citrus fruit). (12€ supplement)

This reminded me very much of a typical Chinese stir-fry that we might have at home, though with more expensive ingredients I must say! Sautéed fish slices with ginger (and often spring onion as well) are a classic combination of freshness and spiciness, while boiled kailan in a thick oyster sauce (here replaced by a similarly savoury veal and fish stock) is a common side dish. It was all very tasty and both the fish and kailan were cooked just right; the fish remained moist and firm while the kailan had a very nice juicy crunch. Proverbial icings on the cake came in the forms of yuzu in the sauce and chopped cashews; the yuzu, sparingly used, imparted its characteristically fresh flavour and aroma to every mouthful, while the chopped cashews contributed a lovely crunch and nutty edge that blended right into this richly flavoured dish. Very familiar and effective on the whole, with well conceived modifications and individual touches.

Main course 2: dorado (commonly known as mahi-mahi) fillets with yuzu gelée coating and furikake (a dried fish/seafood-based Japanese condiment), garnishes of green paprika coulis, ginger, Sansho pepper and fresh cordifole, in a clear broth of buddha's stock infused with fish maw.

Somewhat similar to the previous fish dish, but cleaner and lighter, the fillets were only slightly cooked and maintained a pinkish hue and a firm and succulent texture. Their mild taste was appropriately enhanced by the surrounding condiments - furikake topping and a seafood and soy-based broth for greater umami, yuzu and Sansho pepper (which despite its name is not actually a pepper but a member of the citrus family) for highlighting the freshness of the fish, and ginger and paprika to awaken the tastebuds to the subtle flavours of this dish. This dish (especially the broth) reminded me very much of steamed fish dishes that we would sometimes have at home, albeit without the Japanese twist. On that note, if I had any suggestions for improvement, it would be to tone down the somewhat overpowering citrus element (yuzu) - lovely as it was, I felt it almost threatened to get in the way of the more savoury components; I must state though that in this case it is very much a matter of personal taste.

Main course 3: chicken with miso sauce, foam and chip; eggplant, marinated radish, rocket, Japanese mustard and miso mayonnaise.

This was pure comfort food. On the right, various miso-based condiments were slathered over a generous mound of tender grilled chicken, accompanied by a chunk of roasted eggplant dressed in various garnishes and miso mayonnaise, in a manner that resembled the classic Kyoto side dish nasu dengaku. Everything felt utterly rich and satisfying, due in no small part to the liberal use of miso, which enhanced the flavour of just about anything. The succulent textures of both chicken and eggplant were a perfect match, while the mildly spicy and acidic garnishes helped to balance the understated sumptuousness of it all. We both loved this dish unreservedly.

Main course 4: pigeon massaman curry, with pumpkin, spinach, fresh almond, popped rice and grape on an arc of basil purée. (8€ supplement)

This was a clear tribute to Thai cuisine, one of Raue's favourites and also a popular ethnic cuisine in Germany herself. In particular, massaman curry has gained somewhat of a cult status internationally, having been given the No. 1 spot in CNN's World's 50 Most Delicious Foods in 2011. This Southern Thai curry dish is thought to have originated in Malaysia and like typical curries there is based on peanuts/cashews and potatoes, with spices such as cardamom, star anise and tamarind - very different from the thick coconut milk and herb (basil)-based curries one usually associates with Thai cuisine.

I found the version on offer here lacking in authenticity - just not quite nutty and aromatic enough; only the sweet-sour taste of tamarind was evident. This sauce was probably closer to a pigeon jus than a real massaman curry. Taken on its own merits though, it was still pretty tasty and complemented the rich flavour of the meat well. The pigeon was astonishingly tender and succulent. Its accompaniments were excellent too; fresh and wholesome, they provided a good balance to the intensity of the meat and its sauce. Standouts for me were the fresh almonds with their gelatinous crunchy texture and refreshing bittersweet taste, and the basil purée for its lush licorice-like taste and scent. On the whole, this dish was quite enjoyable.

Main course 5: 'Peking duck interpretation TR' served three ways - crispy duck breast on a pancake filled with apple purée and leek, surrounded by five-spice sauce; liver terrine and mousse with pickled cucumber and leek-ginger purée; duck bouillon with offal (liver, heart and tongue), diced winter melon and bamboo pith. (12€ supplement)

Of course I had read overwhelmingly positive reviews of this dish prior to our visit, but after a couple of hits and misses with some of the preceding courses, I was afraid that this might fall short of our high expectations. I needn't have worried - notwithstanding minor snags, the elevated status of this pièce de résistance was entirely justified, as was the supplement charged. Effectively three dishes in one, this course displayed both creativity in the introduction of Westernised touches, as well as a deep understanding of the authentic flavours of this classic Chinese dish. Fusion gone right, fortunately! I shall elaborate on each of the components in further detail.

First, to get the negatives out of the way - the skin of the 'crispy duck breast' wasn't quite what it promised to be, as anyone who has had authentic Peking duck would be able to tell. Chinese cooks typically spend years perfecting the technique of achieving a paper-thin crispy skin barely concealing the succulent flesh beneath, with the fat layer in between more or less melted away from the prolonged process of roasting over a straw or wood fire in a brick oven. To be fair to this restaurant, this method of cooking obviously wasn't going to be possible due to typical fire and safety regulations in Europe, and the authentic procedure itself is both laborious and difficult, so taken on its own terms this duck was probably as good as a Western-style roast would get. The skin was still nicely browned and the flesh quite tender and succulent. Most importantly, what this restaurant got right was the sauce - it was as viscous, aromatic and tasty as they come in good Chinese restaurants. A perfect match for the rich gamey taste of duck, and fair compensation for the somewhat mediocre texture of the supposedly crispy skin.

The ingenuity of this first component came hidden under the duck breast - a waffle-like base with a filling of apple and leek in each cavity, which imparted a refreshing sweetness and slightly piquant aroma to each intensely savoury mouthful. I was reminded of the traditional English roast pork and applesauce combination - this version with duck worked brilliantly too! The only slight pity in all of this was that the pancake pastry itself had become soggy from being sandwiched between the meat and the sauce, and lacked the fluffiness and crispness that I was hoping for.

The most classically French component of the trio, this was superlative in every aspect. The terrine and mousse were creamy in texture and musky in taste, just as they should be. The Chinese reference was not completely lost either - small dollops of the excellent five-spice sauce were present to remind the diner of the dish's original taste. Balance came in the form of a juicy strip of pickled cucumber, which contributed a fresh and mildly acidic crunch, as well as leek-ginger purée, which both cleansed and stimulated the tastebuds effectively with its delicate spiciness and sweet aroma.

This last component, an excellent duck broth that tasted uncannily similar to the herbal duck soups that one might get with a main order of duck rice or noodles at good hawker stalls in Singapore, was very impressive indeed. Incredibly aromatic and tasty, the generous use of various herbs and spices was evident here. The inclusion of offal also contributed to the broth's intense flavour, and I particularly liked the tongue which had a nice gelatinous crunch. Diced winter melon contributed a lovely mild sweetness to the soup, while pieces of bamboo pith, a premium mushroom popular in Chinese soups for its healthful properties, imparted a fresh earthy aroma and a remarkably light and crisp bite to each spoonful. Undoubtedly, this course was the highlight of the afternoon for both of us.

Dessert 1: in the main dish - cold tapioca soufflé in raspberry sauce; in the side dish - rhubarb sorbet, freeze-dried rhubarb, rhubarb cream and pepper cream. Garnishes of fresh raspberries, lemongrass and chopped pistachios in both dishes. (8€ supplement)

While this was a well-intentioned contrast to the indulgence of the preceding courses, the dessert as a whole didn't really do very much for us. The combination of raspberry and rhubarb made the overall taste much too acidic, and the main tapioca 'soufflé' was astonishingly tasteless. Furthermore, its texture was somewhat strange - more like a foamy mousse than soufflé - and taken together with the watery pool of raspberry sauce caused it to become rather soggy and even marshmallow-like to the palate. Quite disappointing indeed. I did appreciate other details though - in particular, the pepper cream for its mild kick to the palate, the crunchy freeze-dried rhubarb bits and chopped pistachios, and the ever so subtle aroma of lemongrass wafting through each mouthful (probably infused into the sauce or cream). The crispness of this dessert was evident, but I would have liked a greater sensitivity towards the harmony of flavours and textures. I thought that this was a bit of a hotchpotch that looked somewhat better than it tasted - didn't help either that it was one of the dishes that came at a supplement!

Dessert 2: mango and passion fruit sauce, fresh and jellied mango, vanilla ice cream, tapioca sago, meringue and cardamon cream.

The more agreeable of the two desserts, this bore an uncanny resemblance to the popular Hong Kong chilled mango dessert 杨枝甘露, albeit more fancily presented. I thought the passion fruit in the sauce (something not usually done in the classic HK version) was very effective in balancing the sweetness of the mango with a fresh and tangy edge. The puréed passion fruit also unleashed all its lovely characteristic aromas while imparting a silky viscosity to the sauce. Tiny translucent balls (commonly known as sago) made from tapioca flour, with a pleasant chewy texture, were present in abundance just as they would be in the traditional dessert. Furthermore, I was struck by two other aspects of this dessert: the creative ways in which the mango was presented, as well as the warm and sweet fragrance of cardamon (who'd have thought of using this spice?) which blended perfectly with both vanilla and passion fruit. The vanilla ice cream was pleasant, though it came across as somewhat of an afterthought and we might have done without it. Tiny meringues sitting on each dollop of cardamon cream provided a nice contrast in texture to the rest of this dessert, with their airy crispiness.

Petit four: blackberry ice cream coated in rosemary white chocolate, topped with pine nuts and honey.

Instead of the customary pastries and chocolates one gets after a fine meal like this, we were each offered a very posh-looking iced lollipop. The blackberry ice cream filling was very light and refreshing and had just the right balance of sweetness and acidity. It was enrobed in a thin layer of white chocolate that, by contrast, was buttery and luxurious in mouthfeel, with the sweet-smelling hints of rosemary coming through in every bite. To top it off, pine nuts provided a further crunch in texture as well as a greater depth of flavour. Garnishes of confited blackberry, fresh rosemary leaves and a drizzle of honey were the icings on this absolute gem of a petit four. What a delightful way to finish - this was clearly one of our most vivid memories of the afternoon.

We checked out the washrooms before leaving, and passed by many interesting artefacts. There was a pretty arresting (though tad messy) display shelf along the stairway to the basement, with all sorts of classic Chinese ceramics, while the basement restroom area itself featured bold colours and an array of contemporary Chinese art. The décor of this restaurant was indeed as eclectic as the food itself.

Basement lounge

Very interesting hook for cubicles
in the shape of a rhino horn!

Very pretty blossoms

Private dining area/chef's table next to the open kitchen

We were hoping to meet Raue himself but he was away this afternoon overseeing operations at his new restaurant Sua Bra. Not much luck this time round with German chefs, it seems!

Considering its remarkably Asian-inspired styles of cooking we were quite surprised at being the only Asian people in the restaurant the entire afternoon. What can I say about this place? Considering the generally less-than-impressive standards of Asian food in Germany, I can see why this restaurant has got a very strong niche, but for Asian people and anyone living in a more cosmopolitan city like London, quality authentic versions of many of these dishes are to be found readily in casual ethnic eateries and restaurants at much lower prices.

To be fair to this kitchen, the best of today's dishes were very solid and pretty indeed - in particular, most of the tasting menu selections that came at a supplement - and they have done their best at promoting the sheer diversity of cuisines from a very distant part of the world. Of course, it is always difficult to get one up on cuisines with such long and illustrious histories. In particular, we both felt that certain cooking techniques (e.g. for the dim sum and roast duck) definitely had room for improvement. Understandably however, the restaurant wouldn't pull out all the bells and whistles for a 'budget' lunch menu; the much more expensive full tasting menus might be unreservedly brilliant, as most reviews seem to concentrate on promoting them - who knows, I might just give this place another go the next time I'm in Berlin?

Pre-concert dinner at Fassbender & Rausch, Berlin

It is a very exciting evening for me hearing my favourite pianist at the Konzerthaus in Berlin, and just before the concert we decided to catch a quick dinner at Fassbender & Rausch just behind the hall in Gendarmenmarkt.

While this famous chocolate shop might not seem to be an obvious choice for a proper dinner, it has developed a reputation in the city for its unique pairing of chocolate with savoury dishes. Touting itself as 'the biggest chocolate house in the world' offering the complete chocolatey experience, the café-restaurant situated on the first floor offers a selection of pastries, hot chocolate and main courses using various types of chocolate in their sauces and garnishings. For chocolate lovers like ourselves, this was an opportunity not to be missed.

First up, hot chocolate made with 70% bitter chocolate from their El Cuador plantation, topped with fresh whipped cream and chocolate powder.

The deep and slight fruity taste of the chocolate was evident, though we certainly wished for more viscosity and intensity. Perhaps we have been spoilt by our hot chocolate experiences in Belgium and France, where they make it really thick and luxurious, often tasting like pure melted chocolate! Since then it has been difficult for hot chocolate in other countries to match up, including this one I must say - though the lovely whipped cream gave it a slightly richer texture and taste.

This was followed by bread before our main courses, accompanied by pumpkin seed crème fraîche with dark chocolate chips, pumpkin seeds and pumpkin seed oil. The bread was just ordinary but the dip was excellent - the powerful nutty flavour of pumpkin seed in all its manifestations was perfect when combined with the rich bitter chocolate chips. Tasty, healthful and unique, it was certainly a sign of things to come.

Main courses: corn-fed chicken with amaranth carrots, watercress salad, diced peaches and baby tomatoes, in a pool of green horseradish sauce and shavings of Nouméa 35% milk chocolate.

The chicken was well-roasted, with tender and succulent flesh, and a nicely browned and somewhat crispy skin. Its lovely aromas and caramelised taste were very well enhanced by a piquant horseradish sauce. I had initial misgivings since horseradish can be piercingly spicy, but this sauce was surprisingly fresh and mild, with a slight hint of sweetness. Dark chocolate gave the whole dish a fuller body and further sweetness without detracting from the natural flavour of chicken, while the generous multitude of fruits and vegetables were the most apt complements to the delicate overall sweetness and spiciness of this dish. Very unusual composition of ingredients I must say, but they worked extremely effectively together.

The other main: trout fillets on fennel celery, with orange slices, dill bulgur, and orange & white chocolate sauce. Garnishings of thyme, saffron, poppy seeds, and white chocolate shavings.

White chocolate was the highlight here, and I thought that its buttery sweetness was very apt for the milder flavour of this fish. Also, one usually sees lemon with fish but here the juicy and tangy pieces of orange were also very effective in enhancing the delicate sweet taste and moist texture of fresh fish. The other accompaniments were rather more conventional; you couldn't go wrong with the distinctive aromas of fennel, dill and thyme in each mouthful of fish. The bulgur was great too; it provided essential weight for this relatively lighter dish, whilst retaining a delightful powdery fluffiness akin to what one might expect of high-quality couscous.

Desserts: chocolate tart, consisting of dark ganache on a crisp chocolate biscuit with chocolate pieces, all encased within a dark chocolate outer shell.

Not for the faint-hearted, but chocolate lovers will definitely appreciate this chunk of unadulterated sin! The description speaks for itself, and the dark chocolate used for this was definitely of a very high quality, possessing a deep and complex flavour with mildly acidic hints of red fruit in the long aftertaste.

The other morsel from heaven, 'mocha cream symphony': layered mocha cream and chocolate ganache on sponge biscuits.

Alright, so the design is a little tacky - and why not since we're right behind the Konzerthaus?! - but as they say the proof of the pudding is in the eating, and on that count it certainly didn't disappoint. I actually preferred this slightly over the previous chocolate overload. The rich and smooth layers of mocha cream provided additional textures and aromas to this confectionery, while the layers of sponge helped to lighten things up somewhat. A more sophisticated creation, I thought.

Very tall and eye-catching plant at
one end of the dining room.

Almost time for the concert (and closing time for this place) by now, so we made a quick trip to the main chocolate shop downstairs for some last-minute purchases. There are also some pretty impressive chocolate sculptures you can admire if you have more time.

In summary, a very unique foodie experience revolving around chocolate - to my knowledge, there is no equivalent anywhere else in Europe at this time with regard to their savoury offerings. The idea of having chocolate in a non-dessert role might seem weird to many, but with good judgement it really does work - do try it with an open mind!

Lunch at Fischers Fritz, Berlin

I am currently on a short holiday in Berlin to catch my favourite pianist in action once again. Hardly my first visit to the city, but on previous occasions the thought of exploring Berlin from a foodie perspective had never crossed my mind, and understandably so; gastronomy and indulgence are hardly the qualities that one would associate with this utilitarian German capital that still offers incredible value for money (by Western European standards) in all aspects of everyday living. Nevertheless, in my quest for new experiences within a pretty familiar city, I was glad that I finally embarked on a little restaurant tour, and excited by what it might bring.

First stop for me and my partner this afternoon: Fischers Fritz in the Regent Hotel. This visit had been completely unplanned; in the morning we had decided to be in the area for the day and so I asked our hotel's receptionist to try her luck at booking a table there for a nice and leisurely lunch. Surprisingly, the restaurant wasn't busy at all so last-minute reservations weren't a problem, but we were also concerned that we might not be allowed in because of our casual dress. The receptionist checked with the restaurant again; no problems there either - great! And so off we went.

The posh Regent Hotel is located in a central part of town very close to the Gendarmenmarkt and the opera houses. Beyond its seemingly nondescript façade lie some of the most luxurious interiors, and there is even a Meissen Tea Room, where afternoon tea is served on crockery made exclusively from exquisite Meissen porcelain (hence the tea room's name).

Meissen Tea Room

Fischers Fritz on the ground floor is one of Berlin's only four 2-starred restaurants, and the style of cuisine here is modern French. The kitchen is helmed by Christian Lohse, German by birth but completely French in training (including a stint at Guy Savoy in Paris). The luxurious and elegant furnishings in soft pastel colours are extremely French as well, and I felt as if I had been teleported to one of the Parisian institutions the moment I went past the doors. We were the first diners to arrive. The initial reception was cordial but not overwhelming, which quickly put us at ease in the midst of a near-empty restaurant. Suprisingly, the restaurant would stay mostly empty for the rest of the afternoon, which is slightly worrying for a highly-rated place like this, but I suppose the locals would be at work on a weekday, and most tourists aren't thinking of fine-dining in Berlin.

One of only five French lobster press
machines in the world, apparently!

Lunch here is a very reasonable affair at 47 euros for 3 courses including all taxes, which is comparable to set lunches in 2-starred establishments in London. There is an impressive variety of choice - between 5 starters, 5 mains and 4 desserts, to be precise. Any reservations that we might have had about the quality of the food (due to the apparent emptiness of the restaurant) were quickly dispelled by the lovely succession of dishes that followed.

First up, a plate of onion crackers with anise for nibbling. These were very light, aromatic and tasty, and were gone before we knew it!

Amuse-bouche: Icelandic trout, purple carrot cream and carrot chip, olive remoulade.

The trout was very fresh and succulent, and its rich taste and texture were well complemented by the creamy carrot and remoulade. The sweet-savoury balance between carrots and olives was precisely achieved, while the single chip provided a lovely crisp bite contrasting effectively with the softer textures of the rest of this appetiser. I should also mention that purple carrots are no ordinary vegetables - their colour indicates a high level of antioxidants in addition to the health benefits of normal carrots. A wholesome and very promising way to begin indeed.

Bread and butter were served next, and a good variety came nestled within an elegantly folded napkin in a silver serving dish. I don't remember what they all were, but two types stood out - the 'herbal tongues' (protruding flat sticks made of milk and water, and sprinkled on the surface with fresh herbs) and the brown bread with sunflower seeds. The first were incredibly moreish - crisp and light and yet full of flavour - while the latter was satisfyingly substantial in texture and taste, with a delightful bite and nutty edge from the generous amount of sunflower seeds within. We finished these in no time and even asked for a refill to enjoy with the rest of our meal!

Starter 1: Rockefeller oysters gratinated with spinach and Mornay sauce, served on a bed of salt (for presentation purposes only).

This dish was proof that the best things in life are sometimes the simplest. These large and fresh oysters were lightly cooked to preserve their plump texture and all of their juices, then covered in a rich and creamy cheese sauce, with spinach for a healthy touch. The natural umami of the oysters was most effectively enhanced by their savoury topping. For an oyster lover this was utter bliss, and I could have gone on eating them all afternoon!

Starter 2: crispy baked onsen egg with girolles, cauliflower purée and lemon salt.

Like a Scotch egg, but far more sophisticated and challenging in execution, I can only imagine what precision it must have required to achieve all the right textures in the same egg - crispy crust, firm white and a completely runny yolk. The accompaniments worked together very effectively to produce a harmonious balance of sweet, sour, salty and earthy flavours. I was immediately attracted to the heavenly aroma of the girolles as soon as my server placed the dish on the table. The lemon salt was an inspired background touch, helping to enhance the overall taste of the dish whilst maintaining a delightful freshness with its mild acidity. This seemingly modest dish displayed quite an impressive technique indeed.

Main course 1: Icelandic sea trout with girolles, crispy fish skin, fennel, fresh peas and pea emulsion.

Another simple and lovely dish like the oysters. We were initially concerned about how raw the trout looked (it was probably seared for two seconds or something!) but one bite each and we were won over by the sheer freshness of the fish. Like a good carpaccio or sashimi, the fish's naturally rich oily taste and succulent texture were fully preserved, and its minimal cooking at least ensured that it still flaked nicely and effortlessly when cut with a normal knife. The pea emulsion was equally wholesome and flavourful, with a good sweet-savoury balance that enhanced the fish very nicely. Bits of fennel and girolle mushrooms chipped in with truly delightful aromas, while morsels of crispy fish skin and crunchy fresh peas contributed a pleasant bite and essential contrasts in texture to the rest of the dish. On the whole, this dish was straightforward, effective and enjoyable.

Main course 2: cheek of Duroc pork in 'Szegedin' style, on a base of potato, paprika and sauerkraut, with braised pork jus.

Probably the most authentically German of today's dishes, this was a clear reference to the sausages for which the country is known worldwide. The choice of this premium American breed was an excellent one, and using the cheek (the most scarce and tender part of the pig) ensured a juicy melt-in-the-mouth experience, with wonderful aromas of various herbs and spices in every bite. The particularly extensive use of paprika (in the sauerkraut, sauce, and as a garnish) reminded me of the cuisine of nearby Hungary. This sweet and mildly piquant spice was a lovely touch which both complemented and enhanced the rich taste of the pork. The bed of sauerkraut, an essential accompaniment to any sausage dish, was pleasantly moist, well-proportioned to the meat, and had just the right acidity to balance this indulgent dish. Very substantial and satisfying indeed.

Pre-dessert: dark chocolate cream, pumpkin foam, chopped pistachios, candied peanut.

This morsel was such a sinful delight. Wonderfully rich and nutty, it set the stage for the elaborate desserts to follow. I loved the variety of textures even within this small dish, from the smooth and luxurious chocolate cream, to the light and airy pumpkin foam, and the crunchy bite of the nuts.

Dessert 1: buttermilk blancmange with warm essence of greengage plum, lychee and green tea ice cream.

Many seemingly disparate elements worked wonderfully together in this dessert. The blancmange was very light, wobbly and smooth, like a panna cotta but less dense, and with an acidic tinge from buttermilk. The surrounding pool of greengage plum juice, with a few slithers of fresh greengage, was incredibly sweet and refreshing, true to this species' reputation as the finest dessert plum cultivated in Europe. The bits of candied sesame and almond imparted a good bite and character amidst the delicacy of it all. On the side, a single scoop of lychee and green tea ice cream seemed like a strange combination of flavours, but was extremely effective - very light in texture (really a sorbet instead of an ice cream), with just the right balance of sweetness and astringency, and lovely tea aromas lingering subtly on the palate after each mouthful. Like the main part with the blancmange and plums, this was another breath of fresh air. Considering that this dessert came as part of a 'budget' set menu, its complexity and sophistication were quite impressive indeed.

Dessert 2: citrus jelly with fresh citrus fruit, macadamia granola and cream, bittersweet artichoke ice cream and candied artichoke chips. Served with fresh white chocolate mousse.

A richer dessert than the first, and another cornucopia of ingredients in two separate dishes. The smooth and buttery white chocolate mousse with a topping of finely crushed white chocolate, though one-dimensional, was an effective foil for the more varied components in the other glass. I thought the introduction of a somewhat savoury element in the artichoke to the conventional fruit-and-nut combination brilliant, as the vegetable's slight bitterness really helped to accentuate the characters of the other components. Of course, the novelty of having artichokes in the forms of ice cream and chips raised the fun factor as well. I also loved the chunky macadamia granola and its thick cream for their deep nutty taste and wonderful crunch. I must say the pastry chef here is really quite something!

I was hoping to meet Christian Lohse himself after the meal but he happened to be away at a food conference in Copenhagen, so just too bad! Next time hopefully, whenever that might be.

Grand yet homely main dining room - loved it.

It had been a very enjoyable afternoon with great food and the servers' (almost) undivided attention. I wish to commend two particular staff Mario and Katja, who were all at once warm, friendly and yet unobstrusive, which made our first visit very relaxed and comfortable. I would love to be back for more elaborate dishes at dinner if I ever have the chance to do so!