Dinner at Han (Cuisine of Naniwa), Singapore

This evening, I went for a rather unusual Japanese experience with my mum and partner to end a busy week. We had a couple of vouchers from credit card privileges to use up before the end of this month, so why not? Actually I'd noticed this restaurant for quite some time but could never bring myself to pay full price for fine Japanese food in Singapore, so the discounts were admittedly the main catalyst for our visit - and what a lovely dinner it would turn out to be.

Most Japanese food lovers here will be familiar with the common deep-fried specialties such as tempura and tonkatsu, but relatively few would have tried kushikatsu, a traditional street food from Osaka consisting of skewered meat/seafood/vegetables coated in batter and panko (breadcrumbs). The 'Naniwa' of the restaurant's description refers to an ancient Japanese capital, located in present-day central Osaka city. Head chef Seiichiro Arakawa has made a serious business of these humble skewers, having trained at Michelin-starred A-Bon in Kobe city where similar fine-dining Naniwa fare is served. All the ingredients used at Han are flown in seasonally from various regions of Japan, as one might expect from such a restaurant. There are of course other side dishes as well as the usual sushi and sashimi on the menu, but it is with his uniquely fine kushikatsu that Arakawa has made a name for himself in the local Japanese dining scene.

Grand entrance at Odeon Towers

Dinner at Han doesn't come cheap - starting at $120, you get to choose from a variety of kushikatsu sets with side dishes and/or sushi/sashimi. I chose the 10-stick kushikatsu course with side dishes and sashimi, my partner the same with sushi instead, and my mum the full kushikatsu experience with 15 sticks (a safe choice since she doesn't take raw food anyway).

We all started with an appetiser of simmered tsubogai (Japanese ivory shell) and a salad of konnyaku and shiitake mushrooms tossed in white sesame dressing.

壺貝煮

The ivory shell, having been boiled on a low fire in a light soy-based broth with mirin, sake and a touch of sugar, but served cold as the Japanese like it, was extremely succulent and springy to the bite, and its fresh briny taste was pleasantly enhanced by the delicate sweetness and umami of the simmering broth. Tsubogai is also known as baigai and it is in season from spring to summer. The Japanese call it the king of shellfish - I'm not in the least surprised!  Very easy to like, and gone in a jiffy.

蒟蒻と椎茸の白胡麻和え

More luxurious in mouthfeel and robust in flavours was this salad of thinly-sliced konjac strips and shiitake mushrooms bound together in a white sesame dressing. The deep earthiness and meatiness of the mushrooms were well matched by the intense nutty aroma and rich creamy texture of the dressing, while the firm and chewy konjac strips provided a lovely bite, as did random bits of unground sesame. Both starters were very different, yet equally effective in kick-starting the palate for the feast ahead.

Next up was my sashimi platter consisting of tsubugai (whelk), shima aji (striped jack), hirame (halibut), kanpachi (greater amberjack), chutoro (medium tuna belly) (in anticlockwise order).

お造り：つぶ貝、縞鯵、平目、カンパチ、中トロ

The fish was all extremely fresh and moist. Particular standouts were the tsubugai and hirame for their firm and crunchy texture and delicately sweet taste. I liked the rest very much too. The shima aji, a premium fish which happened to be in season, had a firm and clear pinkish flesh with a sweet and mild oily taste. Despite its name, its elegant flavour was very different from the common aji (horse mackerel) with its characteristic fishiness. On the heavier end, the kanpachi, another species of jack similar to shima aji, was slightly oilier and hence richer in taste, while the chutoro was the most robust of them all, combining the full-bodied umami of red fishes with a delightfully smooth and oily mouthfeel. For the garnishes, I felt that the wasabi used could be better especially in a restaurant of this level; its piercing spiciness and thick paste-like texture were indications that it was definitely not 100% pure grated wasabi, the kind that one expects from fine Japanese restaurants - I don't know if that's too much to ask because we were not in Japan after all.

A side dish of katsuo tataki (seared skipjack tuna) in ponzu sauce with raw sliced onions and togarashi (spicy grated radish) followed shortly for both me and the partner.

小鉢：鰹の叩き、ポン酢、玉ねぎ、唐辛子

These succulent slices of fish had the characteristically fresh and deep flavour of lean red cuts, enhanced by searing on the surface for a delicate smoky edge to each bite. However, I felt that the surrounding combination of ponzu sauce and raw onions was somewhat too sharp and pungent for the fish, threatening to overpower its natural taste. I thought that the dish would have been just fine without the onions - a mild kick is all one needs to highlight the freshness of good fish, which the ponzu and togarashi already did very well. A case of too many cooks spoiling the broth methinks.

Finally, the specialty of this restaurant that we'd all been waiting for! Our table was set rather elaborately with various condiments (from left to right: black sauce, mustard sauce, sanbaizu, sea salt, and fresh slices of lemon and lime) to accompany the following multitude of skewers, as well as a bowl of palate-cleansing raw vegetables (cabbage, zucchini and daikon) for between skewers, just like in a fine tempura meal.

北海道産ズワイ蟹 Hokkaido snow crab leg

First up was some lovely snow crab from Hokkaido, which we were advised to eat with a touch of salt and a few drops of lemon juice. The crab was extremely sweet and succulent, and its fresh clean taste was effectively deepened by the salt and enhanced by the lemon. I should also mention the mastery of deep-frying technique that was evident from the very beginning and would continue to apply throughout this meal. While panko or breadcrumb coatings are usually thought of as being rather chunky and heavy (like in tonkatsu), the ones here were absolutely thin, light and powdery, resulting in an ephemeral crispness that almost immediately gave way to the full glory of their contents. Not a single hint of greasiness, amazingly!

北海道産帆立 Hokkaido scallop

Next was a large whole scallop from Hokkaido, which had been lightly seasoned and turned out very tasty, tender and juicy. It only needed a slight dip in tangy sanbaizu (a mixture of rice vinegar, soy sauce and mirin) to enhance its already deep umami and highlight its freshness.

浜松産うなぎ Eel from Hamamatsu

With the next skewer we moved on to another region of Japan and a fish richer in both taste and texture. This was unagi or eel from Hamamatsu in Shizuoka Prefecture, which possessed a creamy fatty texture and sweet buttery taste due to the abundant presence of natural oils. A somewhat unusual touch of wasabi on top played an effective balancing role with its sharp spiciness, while dipping into soy sauce brought the eel's flavour to another level. This was indeed one of the more memorable courses of the evening.

金目鯛 Splendid alfonsino

Splendid alfonsino (kinmedai in Japanese) is a deep-sea fish with distinctive large eyes due to great water pressure and darkness at the depths in which it lives. As might be expected of deep-sea fishes, this piece had a delicate sweet taste and a rather oily but firm texture. Touches of lemon juice and salt sufficed to enhance its flavour. Most interestingly, the panko coating did not cover the whole piece of fish, and it was deep-fried with the skin and scales intentionally left on and exposed, which created a certain visual impact and made every bite delightfully crunchy.

鹿児島産空豆 Broad beans from Kagoshima

One normally expects beans to be rather crunchy and starchy, but like the delicate panko layer that barely covered them, these were unexpectedly light and fluffy. We were advised to eat them with a touch of salt, which complemented their mild sweet taste very well. These broad beans were very moreish indeed, and all gone in a jiffy!

福岡産烏賊と北海道産雲丹 Squid from Fukuoka with fresh Hokkaido sea urchin

One can seldom go wrong putting a large dollop of fresh sea urchin onto anything, and this was no exception. The squid was remarkably tender and moist, and its clean delicate taste was aptly contrasted and enriched by the creamy sweetness of the sea urchin. As with the luxurious eel skewer, a touch of wasabi provided balance, while dipping into soy sauce as suggested deepened the overall umami of this course. On the whole, it felt incredibly smooth, rich and satisfying.

ニュージーランド産天使の海老 Angel prawn from New Zealand

More commonly known in fine Western restaurants as the Obsiblue prawn, this exclusive species native to New Caledonia is the only non-indigenous shrimp to be deemed fit for sashimi consumption by top sushi chefs in Japan, where it goes by the more poetic name of tenshi-no-ebi (lit. angel's prawn). Here, the prawn's plump and springy texture and unique briny sweetness (closer to lobsters and langoustines than shrimp) made it an instant winner. It was served with the head and the tail left intact, both of which were surprisingly light and crisp and could be enjoyed without any fear of pierced gums from the sharp edges. There was almost no wastage here. The head, which one usually discards first when peeling a prawn, was in fact particularly aromatic and full-bodied in flavour. Touches of lemon juice and salt could have been added to enhance the prawn's remarkable freshness and umami, but I really preferred it au naturel  in this case.

A chilled dish arrived at this point to cleanse our palate and prepare our tastebuds for the most substantial item of the evening.

大阪風サバとキュウリ漬け、辛子ソース

Osaka-style pickled mackerel and zucchini with mustard sauce

Pickled mackerel sushi or sabazushi is a popular dish in the Kyoto/Osaka region, and originates from pre-refrigeration days, when fish could only be pickled if they were to remain fit for consumption by the time they arrived in the old capital from the Sea of Japan. Mackerel was plentiful and nutritious, and therefore became the fish of choice for transport. The fish is pickled first with salt, then filleted, before a second pickling in sushi vinegar and finally extracting any remaining small bones with a tweezer. These two fillets before us were moist and robust due to the abundant presence of natural oils, but fortunately not too fishy as mackerel can be, due to the pickling. Their refreshingly tart aftertaste was well complemented by a side of juicy and thinly-sliced pickled zucchini, while a lashing of spicy mustard sauce really helped to stimulate the palate.

滋賀県産近江牛 Ohmi beef from Shiga Prefecture

This was for me the pièce de résistance of the evening. Ohmi beef is known as one of the top three varieties of authentic Japanese wagyu, along with Matsuzaka and Kobe beef. While the last of these is probably the most famous and expensive internationally, it is actually Ohmi beef that has the longest history dating back some 400 years. Stock cattle are bred by the clear waters of Lake Biwa in Shiga Prefecture, following a strict and balanced nutritional plan. I'm not sure about its grading, but this lovely chunk of meat in front of us was incredibly succulent and melt-in-the-mouth due to its ample marbling. However despite the marbling, the meat was also remarkably well balanced and mellow in flavour; for people who dislike red meats due to what they perceive as an overwhelming heaviness, Ohmi beef must be perfect. Here, the beef had been lightly seasoned with truffled salt, which enhanced its taste and contributed an aptly deep and pleasant aroma, while dipping in the mustard sauce as suggested resulted in an elegant piquant balance. I was on cloud nine and I didn't want this to end so soon.

Shortly after the beef, another chilled dish was served both as a palate cleanser and as an anticipation of the flavours and textures of the next skewer.

素麺、半熟ウズラの卵、つゆ 

Chilled thin wheat noodles with a soft-boiled quail egg in a light sauce

These noodles, which barely filled a mouthful, were extremely delicate. They were also rather bland, but fortunately supported by a tasty and tart sauce made from bonito flakes and perhaps a touch of citrus juice. This refreshing and popular summer dish was made more luxurious with the addition of a soft-boiled quail egg. When the fragile egg white was pierced and the runny yolk was mixed adequately with the noodles and sauce, the overall result was delightfully rich and creamy.

クリームチーズと熊本産トマトペスト

Cream cheese with sun-dried Kumamoto tomato paste

This Italian-inspired course was probably the most unusual one of the evening. A thick and smooth tomato paste was generously spread atop a battered ball containing equally rich and creamy soft cheese. This item was remarkably lighter than it looked though - the robust and tangy tomato paste worked wonderfully with the fresh yoghurt-like astringency of the cheese, making for an effective transition back into the swing of things. This was the only item of the evening that needed no further dipping in any condiments.

シュウマイ Chinese-style pork and shrimp dumplings

A dim sum staple that has become popular amongst the Japanese as well, siew mai (shumai) typically consists of a ball-shaped mixture of minced pork and fresh shrimp, encased in a thin wrinkly layer of dough and steamed. The deep-fried skewered version here did away with the dough and was chock-full of well-seasoned and succulent minced pork, and sweet and springy shrimp. I thought that the crisp breaded layer worked even better than the original steamed dough casing, as it was more aromatic and fit in more effectively with the overall textures. A touch of tangy sweet-sour black sauce elevated the freshness and flavour of the contents. This course was indeed very moreish and easy to like.

寿司盛り合わせ：ネギトロ巻き、炙り中トロ、スミイカ、車海老、雲丹、帆立、漬物

Next was my partner's sushi platter, which consisted of minced lean tuna rolls, seared medium fatty tuna, squid, Japanese imperial prawn with Oscietra caviar, sea urchin and scallop, served with the usual pickled ginger and radish. The seared tuna made a particularly strong impression due to its creamy melt-in-the-mouth texture and rich fatty flavour with a pleasant charred edge. The rest of the seafood was equally faultless; in their raw state (except for the prawn) their freshness and sweetness were even more evident than when they had previously been encased in batter.

The skewers that follow were for my mum only, as she had chosen the full kushikatsu experience without any sushi or sashimi.

北海道産ししゃも Hokkaido smelt

This small soft-boned fish, a popular side dish amongst the Japanese for its eggs, is meant to be eaten whole. Under its crisp charred skin and a very thin layer of bittersweet flesh was a lump of roe so generous it seemed almost anatomically impossible to hold all that in (but of course this is naturally occuring). The roe had a mild briny taste and was rich and pleasantly grainy to the bite. For this fish, a dash of lemon juice and salt sufficed to enhance its freshness and delicate umami.

平目とフォアグラ Flounder with foie gras

While the combination of fish and foie gras may seem strange to many, this was in fact remarkably harmonious. The firm succulent texture and delicately sweet taste of the fish were well contrasted by the creamy smoothness and deep muskiness of the foie gras. A dip in truffle salt introduced further earthy aromas complementing the foie gras and elevating the natural umami of the fish, while a touch of oroshi ponzu (grated radish with citrus vinegar) kept the balance in this indulgent morsel and freshened the palate.

アワビ Abalone

This generous piece of fresh abalone (very different from the canned ones we usually get here) was extremely tender despite its thickness, and every bite released ample juices that were briny and mildly sweet, as one might expect from the highest-quality shellfish. A slight dip in soy sauce was all that was needed to enhance the abalone's elegant flavour.

北海道産白い玉蜀黍 Hokkaido white corn

White corn grown in Hokkaido has been gaining traction amongst gourmands in recent years for their juicy sweetness and delicate texture compared to ordinary yellow sweetcorn. It is also highly seasonal and much more difficult to harvest, which makes it a truly rare delicacy even in Japan. Overseas, one is very likely to be able to savour it only at fine restaurants. I was fortunate to be able to pluck a few grains off to taste, and I can attest to its extremely fragile bite and the explosion of nectar in the palate (weirdly enough, it is not unlike the satisfaction one gets from popping bubble wraps!). Of course, deep-frying had enhanced the corn's taste even further, and a dash of lemon juice balanced the overall sweetness very effectively. This is as close to perfection as any grain can ever get and I can't recommend it highly enough whenever it's in season.

中華風冷やしクラゲ Chinese-style marinated and chilled jellyfish

Similar to the Osaka-style marinated mackerel that arrived before the beef skewer, this dish (which we all received) was particularly effective in refreshing the palate and preparing my mum for her next course. Chilled jellyfish is a staple appetiser at Chinese banquets, and the taste and texture of this were immediately familiar - crunchy, gelatinous, and well seasoned in a marinade that was tangy, spicy and aromatic (due to a dash of sesame oil, I believe).

鹿児島産黒豚 Kagoshima black pork

As my mum doesn't take beef, this was her replacement for the earlier Ohmi beef skewer. This was also very tender and succulent with a good amount of fat, though perhaps still not quite as robust or captivating in flavour as the beef (then again, one cannot compare apples and oranges). Dipping in the spicy and tangy mustard sauce, as we did for the beef, enhanced the pork's taste and made it very enjoyable indeed (who can say no to great comfort food such as tonkatsu?).

アサリ味噌汁 Clam miso soup

As the meal was approaching its end we were all given a bowl of miso soup filled with small clams. As expected, this was very tasty, with a briny sweetness from the clams, and the latter were remarkably plump and juicy.

長崎産アスパラガス Green asparagus from Nagasaki

If you like chewing on carrot or celery sticks, you would love this deluxe version featuring a large whole stalk of asparagus. This was crunchy and sweet (particularly at the tip where the flavour is concentrated), with a fresh and mildly bitter aftertaste, which made for an aptly light ending to a rather heavy set meal for my mum. A light dip in salt enhanced both the freshness and sweetness of this vegetable.

Dessert, as one might expect from a high-end traditional Japanese restaurant, consisted simply of the best seasonal fruit imported from Japan. This evening, we were served musk melon from Shizuoka and seedless Kyoho grapes from Nagano, together with a final cup of sencha (roasted green tea).

果物：静岡産マスクメロン、長野産巨峰

High-quality Japanese fruit is incomparable and they are one of my indulgences at Japanese supermarkets here whenever I feel like spoiling myself a little. I've never actually bought those famed musk melons because they are simply too expensive, so whenever I get a slice at fine restaurants it feels particularly precious. The juiciness and sweetness of this particular slice fully lived up to my expectations, and true to its name, its deep honeyed aroma lingered on my palate and fingers even well after tea had been finished - this melon really needs to be tried to be believed. The Kyoho grapes, a representative grape cultivar which I've had rather more often, were very good too - plump, sweet and juicy, and even the skin which easily fell off the flesh did not have any hint of astringency, as one might expect from normal grapes. Finally, the sencha aptly eliminated any prior feelings of greasiness, and left us feeling rejuvenated and satisfied. On the whole, this had been a really lovely dinner.

What a pretty cup!

Some final pictures of the restaurant near to its closing time:

Counter seating right next to the fryer

The service was generally prompt and attentive, and the food excellent. Having said that, we've probably covered most of the skewered options already, so no plans to go back just yet. Like specialist tempura restaurants, this is a place that one might consider sporadically. However, it is definitely worth a visit if you don't know how good deep-fried food can get, and how guilt-free it can feel with the right technique!

(Update 22/2/2016: Han will close its doors at the end of this month, and a new restaurant, also run by Arakawa, is scheduled to open in April on the same premises.)