Back in Nara city itself for dinner, and we found a specialist unagi (eel) restaurant Edogawa whilst wandering in the old part of town. Grilled eel or unagi kabayaki 蒲焼 is one of my favourite Japanese dishes, and to be able to try it here, in various preparations, was a treat. In restaurants overseas, pre-cooked and packed eel is typically imported from China due to much lower costs of shipping, ingredients and labour required (to prepare the eel), but obviously in terms of taste and quality, nothing compares to the real Japanese deal. In specialist unagi restaurants like this, the eel is also grilled in-house daily, in a surprisingly laborious process that ensures maximum freshness and flavour for customers.
Incidentally, grilled fish is often eaten over the New Year in Japan as an expression of hope for a successful career, and the quick-moving eel in particular symbolises rapid promotion. Seems like we were in the right place then!
The posh-looking main dining room was very spacious and traditional, with tatami flooring, low seating and classic Japanese instrumental tunes playing softly in the background. We had to take off our shoes upon entry and walk on the waxed wooden floor in our socks, through the corridor to the dining room.
As it was rather late on a public holiday, we were the last customers and we had the whole space to ourselves. Fortunately, we were still received kindly (so we didn't have to settle for fast food or supermarket takeaways) and given sufficient time to peruse the menu. Most restaurants in the area were closed, and if not for us, I believe this place too would have called it a day soon. (It may be useful to note that establishments - not just restaurants - in smaller cities generally close earlier than their counterparts in major cities.)
定食「うなぎ三昧」
In the end, we both chose the 'unagi zanmai' set meal featuring different parts of the eel and cooking methods - perfect since we were after the full eel experience. For such a variety of preparations, the price of 3800 yen (inclusive of tax and service) is extremely reasonable. Individual components of the set will be described in further detail below.
Unusually for this region, this restaurant offers Edo (Tokyo)-style unagi kabayaki. This cooking style is surprisingly complicated: the unagi is first grilled au naturel over an open fire, then steamed, and coated with a thick sticky glaze of soy sauce and sugar before being grilled again. The first plain grilling melts away most of the fat while sealing in the flesh's natural juices and flavour, while steaming provides additional moisture to the flesh, hence ensuring its lightness and softness. The second grilling with the glaze then gives the unagi its characteristic browned appearance and pleasant sweetish taste with a mildly charred edge. Kansai-style unagi is simply glazed and grilled immediately (i.e. skipping the first two steps), and is therefore more fatty, aromatic and chewy. To each his own, I guess.
Another interesting difference is the way the unagi is cleaned. Edo (ancient Tokyo) was the seat of the military (samurai) government of Japan, and samurai sometimes had to commit ritual suicide (harakiri 腹切) by cutting their lower abdomen open. Unagi chefs were mindful of this as samurai were among their customers; accordingly they split the eel open from the back and not the stomach. Also, usually the head and tail was removed in the process, though not out of deference to samurai. These customs have been maintained to the present day.
In the Kansai region, particularly in the merchant city of Osaka, there was a saying ‘hara wo waru' 腹を割る (lit. 'to cut open the stomach') - an exhortation to be frank, open and honest; hence the eels were split down the stomach. The head and tail usually remained attached.
うざく
Unagi kabayaki with pickled cucumber, in a lightly vinegared sauce: this was a nice little starter to whet the appetite. The thinly-sliced cucumber was very crunchy and juicy, and together with the sauce, provided a refreshingly acidic balance to the sweet and tender flesh of the unagi.
鰻蒲焼
Unagi kabayaki (grilled on bamboo skewers), glazed generously with a thick sweetish sauce: as expected, tender, moist and fresh-tasting, with a pleasant charred aftertaste in each bite from the caramelisation of the glazed flesh. For me, this was the best way to enjoy grilled eel - unadorned and in its full splendour, with no distractions except for a palate-cleansing stalk of pickled ginger shoot.
う巻
Unagi datemaki (grilled eel rolled in thin layers of omelette): this more luxurious version of the plain egg datemaki, presented as a thick and large slice, was absolutely satisfying. The scroll-like datemaki, with its distinctive surface ridges, is a staple of osechi-ryori (Japanese New Year cuisine) that symbolises scholastic achievements and cultural refinement. Identical to the much more common tamagoyaki in all aspects except form and appearance, the sweet and moist egg roll complemented its tender and succulent unagi filling perfectly.
鰻柳川鍋
Unagi hotpot with scrambled eggs in a cloudy dashi broth: this was the only preparation using unglazed unagi. These plainly grilled then steamed slices had a much more delicate natural flavour and texture that were aptly enhanced by the soft fluffy eggs and savoury broth. It had been very chilly today so this dish seemed especially warming and comforting.
肝煮
Simmered eel liver: not the usual part of the eel one eats, but nonetheless still a pleasant experience. These firm, chewy and slightly creamy chunks of liver had been cooked in a mixture of soy sauce, dashi, mirin and sake, resulting in a full-on umami from the combination of the simmering broth and the musky liver. These little nuggets certainly packed a punch beyond my expectations.
骨せんべい
Deep-fried eel bones: another unusual part of the eel for consumption (the Japanese really do not waste anything) - these lightly battered and salted strips were extremely moreish, and surprisingly crisp and airy! They went down all too easily and disappeared in a jiffy.
肝吸
Clear soup with eel liver: the eel liver here in its original form was slightly softer and creamier than in the earlier simmered dish, and its musky taste was also more apparent, enhanced but not overpowered by the light dashi soup.
デザート：わらび餅、よもぎ団子、小豆
After the main tray was cleared, we were served a delightful combination of warabi-mochi, mugwort rice balls, and chunky red bean paste for dessert. The soft and chewy warabi-mochi had a light dusting of soybean powder which gave it a deep toasted edge. By contrast, the firm and substantial rice balls were perfumed with the delicate herbal aroma of mugwort. To finish, the azuki paste was rich and viscous with a pleasant bite. These dainty little tasters of traditional Japanese confectioneries were a lovely way to complete the meal.
I didn't realise that we had gone well past their closing hours, and they were actually waiting for us to leave so that they could close up. Not a hint of impatience was shown even as we lingered on slightly in the adjoining souvenir shop, before paying for the meal. Great service, as always in Japan.
There is a smaller kaiseki section next door which I believe is part of the same establishment, as it offers multi-course options showcasing the same ingredients (in more refined preparations and with a significantly higher price tag, of course). In any case, considering their signature Edo-style unagi, both sections are aptly housed under the same Edo-period building; the sense of nostalgia and history was palpable. An ideal conclusion to our two-day sojourn in the ancient city of Nara and its environs.
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