This evening, we moved out of Tokyo for the next part of our trip in Gifu Prefecture, where we will be visiting the UNESCO site of Shirakawa-go. Travelling by the Shinkansen to Nagoya then changing to the regional train due to heavy snowfall, we arrived late in its main city Takayama. We had been hoping for a winter wonderland in this mountainous region, and certainly got much more than what we had wished for! Extremely cold and hungry, I was glad to find a nice sushi place that was still taking orders at 9 pm, just 10 minutes' walk from our hotel.
Matsuki Sushi is conveniently located near the train station, with a sushi counter on the right and traditional tatami seating on the left, as you walk in. The restaurant was largely empty at that time except for two salarymen next to us. Two chefs worked the counter, though it was quite clear that the elderly gentleman had already called it a day, simply chatting with the salarymen, while his young assistant was the one making the sushi for customers.
The lady who received us informed us that due to the late hours, the rest of the kitchen was already closed, and that only one sushi omakase set (3,300 yen) was available - which was completely fine, since that's what we came for. I would find out later that they get their fishes daily from markets in Toyama, Kanazawa and Nagoya, upon expressing my surprise that one still could find fresh sushi and sashimi in the mountains. (Obviously we hadn't had enough in Tokyo!) Matsuki Sushi also does multi-course meals using the region's famed Hida beef and other local produce, but fresh seafood is what distinguishes them from the other restaurants here; it does come highly recommended on Tabelog for sushi and sashimi in the area.
The setting is casual and basic; condiments of soy sauce and fine sea salt are provided for the customer to season according to his taste - no pre-seasoning by the chef, and the sushi arrives all at once on a platter, not piece by piece as they are being made, as in more fancy places. Of course the result wasn't going to be as refined in taste and texture, but the seafood was still very high in quality, and for that price one can't really complain.
A warm, tasty bowl of crab miso soup was served in addition to 12 pieces of nigiri. There was even a good deal of sweet and succulent crabmeat within the soup. Very satisfying especially in this weather.
握り盛り合わせ：大トロ、平目、飛騨牛、数の子、カンパチ、かに、タコ、赤身、芽葱の乾き味噌添え、イクラ、白海老、あん肝
(From left to right, top to bottom): fatty tuna belly, flounder, Hida beef, seasoned herring roe, amberjack, crab, octopus, lean tuna, baby chives topped with dry miso, salmon roe, white shrimp, monkfish liver.
Particularly memorable items were the ootoro (fatty tuna) and Hida beef for their velvety melt-in-the-mouth texture and deep oily taste; crab and white shrimp for their fresh juicy sweetness; and ankimo (monkfish liver) for its rich creamy mouthfeel. The last of these, ankimo (monkfish liver seasoned with salt and rinsed in sake before steaming), a winter delicacy, was a first for us and we really loved it; it felt exactly like a foie gras terrine but was somewhat more delicate in taste.
As usual, the chef asked us if we would like any more pieces after we had finished, and seeing the uni 雲丹 (sea urchin) in the chiller, I couldn't resist. It wasn't quite as plump and moist as I would have liked (a little dried out perhaps?), but was still very sweet and creamy.
Upon the chef's recommendation, we repeated the ankimo in the form of a hosomaki あん肝細巻き. These densely packed bite-sized pieces were absolutely luxurious and addictive.
To finish, we were each given a complimentary dessert of homemade azuki (red bean) ice cream. It was a lovely gesture by the lady who had received us initially.
This meal was brief but extremely comforting, and if we ever visit Takayama again during a different season, I know we'll be back at an earlier hour for the full multi-course experience!
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