Birthday dinner at Mikuni, Singapore

This evening, I returned to Mikuni with my mother and partner, for a belated birthday celebration for my mother. On Mondays, FAR Card members get 50% off the entire menu for up to 5 people per table (on other days the 50% discount only applies to a party of two), so if you love Japanese fine-dining and are looking to celebrate a special occasion, there really is no better deal in town. Just apply for the card and get ready to indulge! Unsurprisingly, Mondays at Mikuni are often fully booked for both lunch and dinner, so do reserve at least a week or two in advance if you are planning to go.

Fortunately this time we were seated towards the back of the restaurant, away from the area with the strong blue lighting, so that we were subliminally less distracted, could hold a conversation without the next table being too close to us, and take pictures with a much more natural colour balance. The atmosphere seemed rather calm and cosy despite the full house this evening, and we felt at ease very quickly.

To start, we were offered the usual spicy prawn crackers with dustings of nori and other spices and seasonings - these crisp paper-thin morsels are always a joy to behold in the palate.

This evening, we ordered from the whole range of dinner menus. I went for the 7-course Grand Tasting Menu (GTM), my partner went for the 6-course Spring Dinner Course (SDC), and my mother decided to go à la carte (ALC) as she didn't want to eat excessively. I do like how flexible this kitchen is, given that most fine-dining establishments require that the entire table takes the same menu, for (understandably) practical reasons. I shall review all three menus concurrently using the above abbreviations.

(GTM)

お通し：北海道産ズワイ蟹、柚子ゼリー、キャビア、桜の葉と芽

Cold starter: Hokkaido snow crab, yuzu jelly, Oscietra caviar, sakura leaf and buds

A luxurious yet understated start to the GTM, this consisted of generous chunks of Hokkaido snow crab topped with soft yuzu jelly and caviar, garnished with sakura buds and wrapped in a whole sakura leaf as symbols of spring. The sweetness and succulence of the crab was perfectly complemented by the distinctive citrusy flavour of the yuzu jelly, and enhanced with a pleasant umami from the juicy caviar topping. The sakura leaf and buds weren't simply decorative either; their delicate and sweet aroma enveloped this starter and brought all its components together very elegantly and harmoniously. Just lovely on all levels.

(GTM)

お通し：鮑の酒蒸し、菊の花、茗荷、木の芽、松の実

Warm starter: abalone steamed in sake, with chrysanthemum, pickled ginger flower, Japanese pricklyash and crushed pine nuts

The indulgence continued with a second starter of steamed abalone, placed appropriately in a beautiful real abalone shell with a shimmering natural mother-of-pearl inlay. This dish tasted every bit as good as it looked. The two small chunks of abalone were very tender and juicy, and steaming with a touch of sake really helped to highlight their freshness and natural umami, due to the sake's delicate aroma and effective balance of spiciness and sweetness. Crushed pine nuts contributed a delightful crunch as well as further depth of flavour. The other garnishes completed this dish on a very clean and crisp note; the slivers of ginger flower kept the appetite stimulated with their puckering astringency, while pricklyash refreshed the palate and prepared the tastebuds for the following course.

(SDC)

お通し：温泉卵、じゅんさい、雲丹、トリュフソース

Starter: Japanese onsen egg with water shield and black truffle, Hokkaido sea urchin

The only starter of the SDC was this little pot filled with a surprisingly generous amount of opulent ingredients such as truffle shavings and sea urchin. Perhaps that was part of the problem with this dish, which I felt really lacked focus. To be sure, the components were excellent when tasted and considered individually; the sea urchin was sweet and creamy, the truffle shavings enhanced with truffle oil enticed with their deep earthy aroma, and the onsen egg slow-cooked at 65 degrees had a perfectly runny and viscous yolk surrounded by extremely delicate egg white. However, putting all of them together in the same mouthful, I could hardly taste or smell anything beyond the overpowering truffles. The excessive amount of truffle oil in the sauce also made the dish feel unnecessarily greasy and heavy on the whole. Everything else came across as a bland and unexciting mush, which was a real shame considering the excellent quality of the sea urchin and the perfect execution of the egg - these should have been the real stars of the dish, with just a touch of truffles for enhancement. Needless to say, I completely overlooked the stalks of water shield at the bottom of the pot, and I still don't understand why they needed to be there. On the whole, I thought that this dish needed much greater thought in balance. Something as distinctive and powerful as truffles ought to be used very judiciously; one does not drench a dish in truffle shavings and oil at the expense of other ingredients, or to create an superficial impression of extravagance. In any case, as much as I love truffles in Western gastronomy, this particular fungi seems to me too strong for the delicacy and subtlety that characterise fine Japanese cuisine.

(GTM)

季節の刺身：大トロ、カンパチ、甘海老、雲丹．大葉、大根、蓮芋、百合根、生海苔、菊の花、山葵

Seasonal sashimi: fatty tuna belly, yellowtail, sweet shrimp and sea urchin, with garnishes of shiso leaf, shredded daikon, hasu-imo, lily bulb, fresh seaweed, chrysanthemum and grated wasabi

My sashimi course was presented very impressively in a huge bowl filled with ice. The plating was beautiful, and the seafood didn't disappoint either. Everything was absolutely fresh and excellent; the tuna belly was melt-in-the-mouth and full of rich natural oils, the yellowtail was succulent and tender, the sea urchin was very sweet and creamy, and the shrimp was delicately sweet and had a firm, juicy and springy bite. The garnishes were elaborate too. Apart from the usual shiso leaf, shredded daikon and grated wasabi, there was a slice of hasu-imo (a member of the taro family) which had a very light, airy and slightly gooey crunch as its distinctive appearance with lots of holes suggests. There was also a piece of lily bulb, one of my favourite ingredients (and frequently used in Chinese medicines and desserts) with its sweet taste and starchy texture, as well as a clump of fresh seaweed, which had a delicate umami and a tender bite. On the whole, this was a most delightful platter that satisfied and rejuvenated all the senses.

(SDC)

特選刺身：赤身、カンパチ、烏賊．大葉、大根、穂紫蘇、長芋、百合根、菊の花、山葵

Seasonal sashimi: lean tuna, yellowtail, and squid wrapped with nori, with garnishes of shiso leaf, shredded daikon, shiso buds, Chinese yam strips, lily bulb, chrysanthemum and grated wasabi

Less fancy in outlook, but with no loss in the actual quality of execution, was the sashimi platter in the SDC. While there were no premium items such as fatty tuna and sea urchin, these three 'basic' types of sashimi were still very enjoyable indeed. The lean tuna had a fresh and intense flavour matching its vivid red colour, while the squid rolls were very tender and moist, with no signs of rubberiness at all. The squid's delicate sweetness was also well enhanced by a deeper umami from a small piece of nori in each roll - a somewhat unusual method of presentation, but entirely effective. The garnishes were largely the same as in the GTM, but with the more common Chinese yam or naga-imo in place of hasu-imo (both have the same kind of gooeyness, although I find hasu-imo juicier, crunchier and lighter).

(GTM)

焼物：甘鯛味噌焼き、玉ねぎ、粽麩、畳鰯、蕗の籐

Grilled dish: sweet sea bream marinated in and grilled with miso, grilled Kyoto onion, mugwort gluten wrapped in bamboo leaf, dried crispy sardine sheet, butterbur sprout

My grilled dish was a small piece of sweet bream or amadai, a premium Japanese fish with a sweet taste as its name suggests. This fish was slightly firmer and less moist than I remembered it from my first tasting menu experience here, but still good. Its taste was enhanced aptly by marinating in sweet Kyoto white miso (saikyou miso) before grilling. Saikyou miso is one of my favourite Japanese ingredients as it possesses a really deep umami and a unique elegant balance between sweet and salty (all other misos simply lean towards the latter). Grilling with saikyou miso is one of the favourite Japanese methods of cooking fish, with almost always brilliant results especially for deep-sea oily fishes. My piece of fish also had a nicely charred skin which added to the overall flavour. The other standout was the gluten, soft, chewy, and infused with subtle aromas from mugwort as well as the bamboo leaf that wrapped around it. This gluten is another produce of Kyoto, widely lauded for its health benefits and versatility for cooking. Other accompaniments included Kyoto onion (a smaller and sweeter variety compared to the common onion), sardine sheet (like a fish cracker) and butterbur, a slightly bitter mountain vegetable to complement the grilled components. For refreshment, pickled onion and ginger flower, as well as a dollop of spicy grated radish were provided on the side. On the whole, a well-composed dish.

(SDC)

魚介：メバル煮付け、筍、ししとう、椎茸、生姜

Seafood dish: soy-braised black rockfish, with bamboo shoots, green shishito peppers, shiitake mushroom and ginger

Black rockfish or mebaru is a premium fish for which the best seasons are spring and summer. It is usually served in a stew like this, but one may take some time to work through the fish due to its numerous small bones. My partner found this rather disappointing unfortunately; the flesh was quite dry and tough, a sure sign of having been overcooked. Thankfully, its fatty sweetness was still somewhat present and its dryness was aptly compensated by the very tasty braising sauce. The accompaniments were excellent and in fact much more appealing to us than the fish; the slices of bamboo shoots were sweet and crunchy, the shiitake mushroom was earthy and succulent, the shishito peppers were juicy and sweet, and slivers of ginger completed this dish on a refreshing spicy note.

(ALC)

ちゃんこ鍋

Seasonal seafood hotpot in a miso broth

My mum's ALC orders came in aptly together with our fish dishes. This was a large and sumptuous seafood hotpot in nothing more than a simple and tasty miso broth. With really high-quality seafood one hardly needs any further boosts; the delicacies can speak for themselves. There were prawns, scallops, clams, squid, crab legs, salmon, fish and cuttlefish balls, accompanied by a variety of mushrooms (enoki, shimeji and shiitake), silken tofu and vegetables (shungiku and napa cabbage). The seafood was all very fresh and sweet, with a firm springy bite, while the vegetables and mushrooms were absolutely crisp and succulent. It was all very wholesome and satisfying, and the portion was surprisingly generous - definitely suffices as a standalone main course, especially if you're not a big eater.

(ALC)

タラバ炒飯

King crab fried rice

To go with her hotpot, my mum had garlic fried rice with shredded Taraba king crab. Garlic fried rice is a staple of teppanyaki cuisine, and this small bowl here hit all the right spots - well seasoned, very aromatic, with just the right amount of charring (what we Chinese call 'wok hei') from the very hot counter on which the dishes are prepared, and most importantly for texture, the rice grains remained very well-defined but soft and chewy. The shredded chunks of king crab were a truly luxurious addition, with their sweet taste and succulent bite. This would fill her up really nicely.

(GTM)

揚げ物：ラングスティーンカタイフィ揚げ、イクラ、じゅんさい

Deep-fried dish: crispy langoustines wrapped in kataifi pastry, with seasoned salmon roe and a langoustine reduction, water shield

In the meantime, my menu continued with this rather eclectic dish. Kataifi is a traditional baked Greek dessert whose thin outer pastry strands resemble shredded wheat or angel hair pasta, and this pastry layer usually covers a sweetened filling of almonds. Here I had a savoury deep-fried adaptation with large whole langoustines in place of almonds, and what a wonderful result it was! As my teeth worked through each piece, the crisp and fragile kataifi pastry quickly gave way to sweet, succulent and springy pieces of langoustines, enhanced further by gelatinous and juicy balls of salmon roe, whose rich buttery saltiness also promptly exploded within the palate. Surrounding these two delightful morsels were a pool of rich and viscous langoustine sauce, as well as a sprinkling of fresh and gelatinous water shield. One could not have asked for a deep-fried dish with more indulgent flavours and textures, and yet which at the same time felt this well balanced.

(GTM)

肉料理：鹿児島産和牛リブアイ照り焼き、もやし、にんにく、筍、アスパラガス、椎茸、辛子

Meat dish: Kagoshima wagyu rib-eye with teriyaki sauce, bean sprouts, garlic, bamboo shoots, asparagus, shiitake mushroom and mustard grains

My menu continued with an excellent beef dish cooked teppanyaki style, served on a large houba (magnolia) leaf with vegetables. The chunks of beef were absolutely tender, melt-in-the-mouth and flavourful, with a great marbling that made it well suited to quick searing at high temperatures. A light brushing of sweet soy-based teriyaki sauce over the beef made it even more tasty, and bits of whole mustard grains aptly refreshed the palate. Accompanying the beef was an assortment of seasonal vegetables, cooked either on the hot grill or over a charcoal fire. The bean sprouts and bamboo shoots cooked quickly on the hot grill remained very sweet, juicy and crunchy, while the asparagus cooked over a charcoal fire acquired a lovely charred edge to its delicate natural sweetness, and a pleasant soft crunch. The shiitake, also cooked over a charcoal fire with garlic butter, was soft and succulent, and its deep earthiness was delightfully enhanced with really lovely aromas from the garlic butter. Soft whole-roasted garlic cloves, with a creamy texture and a surprisingly mild and sweet aroma, completed this picture of indulgence and perfection.

(SDC)

肉料理：鹿児島産和牛リブアイのアスパラ巻き、クレソン、マイクロトマト、胡麻ソース

Meat dish: Kagoshima wagyu rib-eye rolled with asparagus, organic watercress, micro tomatoes, sesame sauce

My partner had the same cut of wagyu for his meat dish, but instead of thick chunks, the meat was very thinly sliced and wrapped around stalks of asparagus. This was a most unusual but effective presentation; the rich fatty flavour and melt-in-the-mouth tenderness of the beef were well balanced by the refreshing sweetness and juicy crunch of the asparagus. The thin but hard outer skin of an asparagus stalk, which one usually has to scrape off before cooking, was not wasted; deep fried slivers garnishing the beef and asparagus rolls had a lovely crispy bite. On the side, a salad of spicy watercress, juicy and sweet micro tomatoes (a special variety even smaller than cherry tomatoes) and creamy but light sesame sauce completed this dish on a wholesome note.

(GTM)

冷やし梅素麺、ナメコ、紫蘇、ネギ、海苔、醤油、山葵

Chilled Japanese plum somen with soy sauce and shiso leaf, nameko mushrooms, shredded spring onion and seaweed, wasabi

After all that preceding indulgence, my final savoury course was an unusual but completely apt chilled noodle dish. This was somen (a thin Japanese noodle resembling angel hair pasta) infused with the lovely reddish-pink colour and the balanced sweet-sour flavour of plum. It would have made for great slurping if not for the small portion and refined atmosphere. The refreshing somen was further enhanced by minty bits of shiso leaf within, and made even more tasty with a touch of light soy sauce. Surrounding the somen was a sprinkling of nameko mushrooms, whose delicate earthiness and soft gelatinous bite complemented its taste and texture really effectively. Garnishings of shredded spring onion and dried seaweed contributed more flavours and aromas, while a touch of wasabi kept the dish feeling very light and crisp throughout.

(SDC)

桜海老天丼、木の芽．赤出汁、生湯葉

Crispy sakura shrimp tempura on rice with a Japanese pricklyash garnish, red miso soup with sheets of fresh tofu skin

More conventional was my partner's ending with rice and soup. The rice was topped with a generous amount of flash-fried sakura shrimp, caught mainly in Suruga Bay in Shizuoka Prefecture, and known for their succulent sweetness despite their diminutive size (yes, you do eat them shell and all). The fragrant prawns were aptly complemented by a spicy and peppery pricklyash (kinome) garnish, which both highlighted the freshness of the shrimp and kept the bowl of rice feeling very light and crisp. Amazingly, there was not a single hint of greasiness despite the frying process. The excellent rice was equally matched by an intense bowl of miso soup made with aged red miso, which possesses a much deeper umami compared to its more common white counterpart. The soup also contained sheets of fresh tofu skin, a famous product of Kyoto known as yuba. Yuba is one of my must-eats whenever I'm in Kyoto, and the dried version makes a great foodie souvenir; it is easy to transport and goes very well in soups and desserts too, though nothing beats the freshly-made yuba of course. The delicate, silky and slightly creamy texture of these sheets belied a remarkable full-bodied sweetness from soybeans. Having them combined with this flavourful miso soup was very gratifying indeed.

(GTM)

デザート：抹茶プリン、メープルシロップ、桜アイスクリーム、小豆

Dessert: matcha pudding with maple syrup, sakura ice cream and red beans

Dessert for me was a soft and creamy matcha pudding, not too sweet and full of the tea's characteristic refreshing astringency. Its toppings were rather sweeter, including an ice cream infused with an elegant floral aroma, a thick and chunky red bean paste, and finally a drizzle of maple syrup. I did feel that the maple syrup was somewhat unnecessary and a tad too robust for the relatively delicate flavour of the ice cream, but fortunately there wasn't too much of it. On the whole, I thought that this dessert was well put together and entirely agreeable.

(SDC)

デザート：山梨スタイル水餅、メープルシロップ、きな粉、栗クランブル、チョコレートクランチ

Dessert: Yamanashi-style water cake, served with maple syrup, roasted soybean powder, chestnut powder and a chocolate crunch snack

My partner's dessert was a unique offering of water cake, premiered by traditional sweet shop Kinseiken in Yamanashi Prefecture in the summer of 2013. In the original version, spring water from Mount Kaikoma in the southern Japanese Alps is solidified just enough with kanten (a natural seaweed gelatin akin to agar-agar) to last about 30 minutes before disintegrating at room temperature. This extremely delicate and crystal-clear confectionery is shaped like a large drop of water, and is also supposed to melt like water in the mouth immediately, hence its name. Mikuni's version looked extremely convincing but was definitely not as soft as we were expecting; in fact, it felt quite firm, almost like plain agar-agar with a certain bite. I've not actually had the original version at Kinseiken so it's difficult for me to judge if that is supposed to be the case - but going by pictures and descriptions on various Japanese websites, it would seem that Mikuni's version still has some way to go. (It is probably unfair to make comparisons, as we lack access to the spring water that defines this dessert.) In any case, Mikuni's water cake still tasted quite good - mildly sweet and very smooth on the throat especially when eaten with the maple syrup (Kinseiken uses brown sugar syrup). The generous amounts of relatively rich accompaniments were essential to give more body to this dessert, and amongst them I particularly enjoyed the chestnut powder for its deep earthy sweetness, and the chocolate crunch for its light crispy texture and vivid flavour.

(ALC)

Dessert: 'Orange sensation' - orange cream and marmalade, orange black sesame biscuit, blood orange sorbet and meringues with sugar, garnished with cress and fresh orange slices

My mum chose an orange-based dessert from the standard menu, and what a lovely conclusion it turned out to be; the possibilities for this fruit seemed almost endless. I was particularly attracted by the dessert's myriad textures. Upon a base of thick orange cream and chunky marmalade sat a crisp biscuit balancing the tanginess of orange with the intense nutty aroma of black sesame - a very unusual but effective combination which imparted a remarkable body and depth of flavour to this dessert despite the wafer-thin biscuit's fragility. A scoop of very light, refreshing and smooth blood orange sorbet was next, showcasing this premium orange's perfect balance between sweetness and acidity. Topping it all off were three small blood orange meringues with blood orange sugar, placed carefully on the sorbet; these were so airy and crisp, yet absolutely bursting with citrusy goodness. Garnishings of cress and real orange slices provided further refreshment and finished this dessert in a very clean and healthy manner.

We were still not quite done yet - after desserts the restaurant continued to offer my mum a birthday ice-cream on the house. This matcha ice cream was rich and authentic, with its characteristic bitter astringency present in full force. Both the ice cream and the restaurant's kind gesture were beyond reproach.

As part of the FAR Card privileges, one also gets a couple of cake vouchers a year, and we thought this would be the perfect occasion to use one of them. Two choices - either mango mousse or chocolate cake. I've tried both, and definitely prefer the mango mousse cake for its lush tropical flavour and rich moist texture. I found the chocolate cake which I had previously too dry, too cloying, and somewhat lacking in the real cocoa intensity department.

In summary, another enjoyable experience at this restaurant amidst fine food (save for a few misses in the SDC) and attentive service. We will be back!