Dinner at Kebaya (Seven Terraces), Penang

We are currently in Penang on a short weekend getaway. In addition to all its wonderful street food offerings, I was of course also on the lookout for some fine Peranakan cuisine, Penang (in particular the UNESCO-endorsed Georgetown area) being one of two major centres of Peranakan culture in Malaysia (the other being the historic city of Malacca). After a hectic day of sightseeing, we settled down to dinner at Kebaya, the main restaurant of one of Penang's best boutique hotels Seven Terraces. The hotel derives its name from the fact that it is a conversion from a row of seven large 19th-century terraced houses. It has also won multiple awards for heritage conservation as well as quality of accommodation.

The term 'Peranakan' might be unfamiliar to some readers and is certainly too complicated to explain in detail, but it might best be summarised as an amalgamation of immigrant (in Penang's case, largely Chinese) and indigenous customs, arising from active regional trading activity, immigration and interracial marriage dating back to the 19th century. For example, many features of the food and décor in this review may appear extremely Chinese on the surface, but the motifs, colours, spices and cooking methods used are of a strikingly different accent. Incidentally, the name of the restaurant, Kebaya, means the traditional dress of Malay women, which has been widely adopted by Chinese Peranakans. In Peranakan culture, the men are known as Babas, and the women Nyonyas; Peranakan cuisine is often also known as Nyonya cuisine. Although I am of pure Chinese origin, I have always been fascinated by this culture that is unique to Singapore and Malaysia (though much better preserved in the latter, I must admit).

It was easy to spot the brightly lit and polished exterior of the hotel, situated at the end of a small side street. We were greeted by beautiful Chinese-style wooden door panels, and geometric tiled flooring featuring typical Peranakan motifs in a matching shade of reddish brown. I would later observe that these tiles are a constant theme throughout the hotel. The narrow walkway, a feature of older buildings in this region, oozed a sophisticated and harmonious elegance.

Once in the restaurant, we were surprised by how much space there was beyond that narrow walkway; a high ceiling and large tables with ample spacing between them created a very different impression of grandeur. Nevertheless, there was still a charming cosiness and familiarity about the place. Perhaps it was the earthy natural colour scheme that put one at ease, or the vintage-styled marbled table tops that reminded one of furniture in the good old days. It was all very restful and nostalgic, and in no way did we feel that we were stepping into an intimidating temple of fine dining.

I really loved this imposing antique screen with all its intricate gilded carvings. Traditionally for affluent Peranakans, such a structure would have separated the entrance hall and the inner courtyard of their grand family homes (notice the openings on the left and right, which allow people to pass through). What an incredible museum-quality piece to be standing around in a restaurant!

Our menus had already been placed nicely atop our plates. The kamcheng design couldn't have been more apt for an invitation into the world of Peranakan cuisine; these porcelain receptacles with auspicious Chinese motifs but vivid Peranakan colours of pink, yellow and turquoise etc. traditionally served as food containers at Peranakan banquets and family dinners. Kamchengs are the representative crockery of the Peranakans (though hardly used nowadays) and nice antique pieces command astronomical prices due to their increasing rarity. They mostly survive in museum collections and as family heirlooms amongst elite Peranakans.

Here's how the ordering works: everyone takes 4 courses at a fixed price of RM110 (plus service and taxes), comprising of one item each from starters, mains, greens and dessert. Assuming that one isn't eating alone, the wise thing to do, in the typical Asian spirit of communal dining, would be to order and share different dishes amongst members of the party, so that everyone gets to try as wide a range of food as possible. Prices here are steep by Malaysian standards, but understandably so considering the restaurant's setting, use of higher-quality ingredients and more meticulous preparation. We'd previously read from various online reviews that portions are ample, so 4 courses per person would probably feel just right, but additional à la carte orders are also possible, just in case.

Lifting the menu, I found the crockery very interesting; at first glance there was that unmistakable European-inspired design and Delft blue scheme, but a closer look revealed typical Chinese motifs of pavilions, mountains and pine trees. Many affluent Peranakans traded with, or studied in, the West, and their taste for European culture and products (which they perceived to be of an elevated status) would eventually influence various aspects of daily life.

Now on to the food - I hope you're hungry!

Starter: otak-otak

This perennial street favourite typically takes the form of ground fish paste seasoned with various spices and coconut milk, wrapped in a banana leaf then grilled over a charcoal fire. When one breaks open the leaf, the rich flavours and aromas unleashed from the soft moist paste are simply irresistible, especially when fresh off the grill.

With that in mind, we were both very surprised when this starter arrived at our table. Kebaya's version of otak-otak unusually encases the filling in a Westernised puff pastry, not banana leaf, and of course the puffs are baked, not grilled over a charcoal fire. Would this otak-otak still work, you ask? We need not have worried; the aromas of banana leaf and charcoal were replaced by an equally rich and effective buttery aroma from the light, crisp and flaky puff pastry. The otak-otak filling was a lot more substantial than we were expecting; as opposed to the usual smoothly ground paste, we had actual small chunks of red snapper within, cooked with turmeric and garlic to perfection. Personally I found this version very satisfying, as one could really taste the fish without over-seasoning, and experience its firm and succulent texture. A small dish of coconut milk-based curried sauce (the same thing that goes into traditional otak-otak paste) was also provided on the side to taste, for diners who prefer this street dish in its full-bodied glory.

Starter: crispy joo hoo char roll

We ordered this on the recommendation of our waitress, who described this as a representative Peranakan starter. The main difficulty lies with the lattice rice paper wrapping; the process of making this rice paper is laborious to begin with, and then one must also ensure that it is thin and translucent, yet strong enough to hold in the substantial amount of fillings throughout the process of deep-frying. This thick roll did not disappoint; the perfectly crisp wrapping barely concealed a finely shredded and sautéed mixture of carrots, shiitake, pork and dried squid. It was really an elevated version of the common spring roll, much thicker and stuffed to capacity, yet with an even more delicate wrapping -  a true test of the kitchen's skills. Sweet chilli sauce on the side made this dish even tastier. We were also advised to eat each piece together with a large lettuce leaf, which further contributed a fresh crunch and a mild sweetness to each bite.

Main: hong bak lamb

More comfort food followed with this prime New Zealand lamb shank, cooked sous-vide for 48 hours and served in its own jus with a generous lacing of thick coconut milk. The meat was so tender it simply fell off the bone with a slight nudge of the knife, and melted in the mouth, unleashing a deep gamey flavour that was perfectly complemented by its concentrated jus with a touch of tamarind for balance. I thought that the sauce went really well with rice too. Coconut milk contributed further rich aromas and a creamier overall texture. There was no holding back in the preparation of this dish. Simply divine!

Main: grilled snapper

The other main dish was a much lighter and healthier fillet of snapper, marinated in an assam spice paste, then wrapped in banana leaf and grilled over a charcoal flame. This was truly guilt-free indulgence. The firm and moist fish had a fresh delicate taste that was aptly enhanced by the thick, spicy and sourish sauce covering it. The grilling gave the flesh a lovely charred edge while hints of coconut imparted additional sweetness and aroma. (By now, the reader should have figured that coconut features prominently in the cooking of this region.) I also found the portion particularly generous - one thick chunk nearly filling up the plate - how often do you see that in restaurants nowadays, even the more expensive ones?

Greens: crispy nyonya tempura

Despite being far more commonly associated with Japanese food today, tempura actually has Portuguese origins, so perhaps in order to recognise the European influence on Peranakan culture, it is not surprising that the restaurant has chosen to present a vegetable dish in this manner. While tempura hardly exists in the traditional Peranakan culinary repertoire, an authentic touch is present in the form of homemade belachan chilli seasoning, dusted throughout the deep-fried morsels. Like coconut milk, this spicy and full-bodied shrimp-based seasoning is an indispensable part of much Southeast Asian cooking. In this dish, the belachan dusting really contributed a lovely depth of flavour to the largely mild-tasting vegetables. This is not to undermine the goodness of the vegetables themselves, whose natural textures and flavours had been effectively preserved beneath their crisp and delicate batter, as good tempura should be. The vegetables included mangetout, asparagus, carrot and enoki mushroom.

Greens: sambal goreng

Essentially a Peranakan stir-fry, this dish consisted of French beans, mangetout, baby corn, cashew nuts, bits of lemongrass and shallots in an aromatic belachan coconut cream sauce. The sauce was of course a combination of the two of the most important seasonings in this cuisine, which resulted in a distinctly different taste from the more common soy sauce and garlic-based Chinese stir-fries. The belachan provided a really deep umami while the coconut cream contributed a velvety texture and warm sweetness to the sauce. With Peranakan cooking, much of the magic lies in the chef's mastery of sauces, and a good sauce often becomes more memorable than the actual focus of the dish (in this case, the vegetables). I also liked the slight Thai twist in the form of lemongrass, which somewhat balanced the heavy flavours of the sauce with aptly fresh hints.

Dessert: gula melaka mousse

This characteristic plate has an obvious Chinese design set against a deep
turquoise background - the colour being a Peranakan favourite.

No great meal is complete without dessert. Gula melaka or palm sugar features prominently in Peranakan desserts (e.g. the ever-popular chendol), and here we had it in the Westernised form of a rich and creamy mousse. The molasses within imparted an extremely complex and intense flavour that left one wanting nothing more; also, there was none of that cloying aftertaste one gets with refined simple sugars. For balance, the base of the dome was a light and fluffy sponge (hidden from view). Surrounding this mousse dome were a ring of coconut cream (of course!), crushed Oreos and candied cashew nuts, all of which were good complements to this picture of unabashed indulgence. For lovers of gula melaka, it doesn't get better than this.

Dessert: pandan crème brûlée

Lovely bowl and saucer

The pandan leaf is a popular spice in Southeast Asian cooking, and its flavour profile may be best described as a cross between vanilla and coconut - warm, sweet and mildly nutty. Its unmistakable aroma may be found in a range of dishes such as curries, rice dishes (e.g. nasi lemak), meats (e.g. Thai pandan chicken), and of course desserts. Here, pandan essence was infused into the classic French dessert of crème brûlée, and the resulting bright green egg custard was rich, velvety, and incredibly aromatic. To top it off, the surface layer of sugar had also been torched with a touch of brandy schnaps, which contributed to an even greater depth of flavour on the whole. For both desserts, it was really gratifying to witness how ingredients and techniques from entirely different cultures could be effectively brought together on the same plates - truly the best kind of 'fusion' cuisine.

The dinner should have ended here but we still had a little room, and we thought it would be a pity not to fill it up, so here follows one additional dessert! (RM20 supplement) We were given sharing plates for this - not sure why, as you will see soon, but look... aren't all the plates so pretty!

Dessert: tang yuen

This was the most traditional of the three desserts that we had tonight. 'Tang yuen' is actually a Chinese dessert of glutinous rice balls (occasionally with fillings such as crushed peanuts or black sesame) in a clear sweet soup. Adapted to a Southeast Asian/Peranakan context, here we had the thickest warm coconut milk broth in place of clear sweet soup. That alone must have clogged a few arteries, but it was oh-so-good as readers might imagine by now. Within this broth were three glutinous rice balls with a distinct colour; these were in fact onde-onde, a popular confectionery with Javanese roots. The outer skin was very soft and chewy; its dark green is due to pandan flavouring (there you go!), which definitely gives an aromatic boost compared to the usual bland white balls. In addition, each ball was chock-full of dried and shredded coconut simmered in gula melaka, which had both a lovely bite and a deep sweet taste. With all three favourite ingredients (coconut milk, pandan, gula melaka) in one bowl, what more could one ask for?

By now well and truly satiated, we decided to call it an evening, and just before leaving I couldn't resist taking some pictures of the hotel's public areas. The entire original row of seven terraced houses had been integrated as one large common space during the conversion, which gives the hotel an incredible sense of grandeur. I especially loved the extended inner courtyard with its tall wooden pillars, marbled flooring and long beams above, which exuded an air of quiet elegance. I would definitely stay here if I could afford to.

Lounge area

The food here is as eclectic as the Peranakan culture itself, featuring vivid and authentic flavours with effective twists. The service is efficient and professional; staff are knowledgeable and happy to make recommendations for those unfamiliar with this cuisine. Portions are ample and satisfying, and vegetarian modifications for certain dishes are also possible. I felt that Kebaya had been great value for money despite being possibly the most expensive restaurant in Penang; it would be unfair to judge this place by the pricing standards of its more casual competitors, or even of the street food that abounds in this city. While attempts at 'fusion' or elevating everyday dishes are often at best superfluous and at worst pretentious, I'm pretty sold on the cooking at Kebaya, which works very well indeed. Highly recommended whenever you are in Penang!