Monday 1 April 2013

Pompi - The King of Tiramisù, Rome

Did I mention in my last post that service at our local trattoria was so slow that we decided to forgo dessert there? Well fortunately for us, it happened that Rome's best tiramisù place was just a stone's throw away, so we definitely made it up to ourselves! And it was so good that we returned the next evening to cover more items on the menu. This post summarises what we had over the two evenings.

Pompi is a highly regarded dessert establishment in Rome and proudly calls itself 'The King of Tiramisù'. It does have a few branches throughout Rome, but the main shop on Via Albalonga is where both locals and tourists are gathered. It opens till late (1.30 am) everyday except Monday, which is great if you're feeling peckish like we did!

This layered dessert of mascarpone cheese and ladyfinger biscuits (savoiardi in Italian) dipped in coffee, and dusted with cocoa powder on top, is arguably Italy's most famous confectionery export. The mascarpone used here is made using milk that is sent every morning from a specific farm, and they use a light and fat-free biscotto di Novara (of monastic origins) for their ladyfinger biscuits. Pompi has also created its own variations upon the classic coffee tiramisù, almost all of which we tried over the two evenings.


Most people get their fix in a paper takeaway box and sit around outside or stand in any available space within the shop (it really gets quite crowded especially at weekends). If you want table service and slightly more space and comfort, there is also a dine-in area where individual items are charged at €1 more than counter purchases - no-brainer which one we went for, really!


On our first evening: this is pistachio tiramisù. The nut's distinctive aroma was evident in every bite, with real chopped pistachios on top providing a lovely crunch. One must really try pistachio-based dessserts whilst in Italy as the nut's quality seems particularly high there. The mascarpone was extremely light and non-cloying, while the ladyfingers within were soft and spongy. I was very impressed with the quality of the mascarpone and the generosity with which it was slathered; good mascarpone is expensive to make and highly perishable, so in most places they use rather more ladyfingers than mascarpone in their tiramisù, which often makes the dessert feel more like an ordinary sponge cake. Not here, though; their tiramisù is both utterly indulgent and easy on the stomach.


Of course, we also couldn't miss the classic coffee version. This was a dessert fit for the gods; the intense aroma and slight bitterness of Arabica coffee were the perfect foil to the sweet mascarpone. Here, the ladyfingers dipped in coffee were delightfully moist, and still retained their spongy bite without a hint of sogginess (as opposed to more inferior places). The cocoa dusting and chopped bitter chocolate topping imparted a further depth of flavour. This was truly substantial and heady stuff, perfectly balanced in texture and taste - still our favourite tiramisù version in hindsight, amidst all the fancier variations.


We also had banana and chocolate ice cream, which was good too, but somewhat difficult to judge objectively after such great tiramisù. The fresh whipped cream was a lovely touch, light and airy yet so full so flavour, unlike those out of a spray can.


Second evening of gluttony!


This was banana and dark chocolate tiramisù, with an optional Nutella topping at no extra cost. Cant' go wrong with this flavour combination, but in hindsight the Nutella wasn't really necessary (appealing as it sounds) as banana is already quite sweet. The whole thing became just a tad too rich and cloying for my taste.


Lastly, the hazelnut tiramisù. This is the other nut for which Italy is well-known (especially the ones from Piedmont). I love the taste of hazelnuts so this was perfect for me. I think nuts in tiramisù are a really good idea for both texture and flavour!


We would have ordered the last tiramisù version consisting of strawberries and forest berries as well but after these two rather sweet slices we thought maybe it wasn't a good idea to go for a third one. Instead, we ordered a gelato version, which turned out to be a really wise choice! This possessed the perfect balance of sweetness and acidity, and was an aptly refreshing way to end our sinful late-night escapades. While the texture was not entirely smooth (shame about some grainy icy bits) the gelato's fruitiness was immediate; seeds within the mix further attested to its authenticity and freshness. Probably the next best thing to actually eating the fruit; we definitely preferred this to the dairy ice-cream from the previous evening.


Pompi is a must while in Rome - only problem: no tiramisù will be good enough for you after this!

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