Weekend lunch at The Square

Another impromptu visit to The Square today for a casual lunch ...

Amuse-bouche: chicken consommé jelly topped with butternut purée, cauliflower foam and thyme crumbs.

Very nice combination of various intense flavours - the thin layer of sharp and salty jelly at the bottom was aptly balanced by two thicker layers of sweet purée and foam (both of which had an amazing smooth and creamy consistency), and the thyme topping provided further aromas and a nice crunch.

Starter: risotto nero with Cornish skate and gremolata.

I should clarify that there was no squid ink used in this dish - the rice is naturally black. It is a really healthy food with high protein and fibre content, similar to brown rice, but a lot rarer. It tends to turn purple when cooked, but careful control here has preserved its original jet-black colour. The risotto was rich and creamy with individual grains still preserving a nice form and bite, and the fish was also topped with a black rice cracker which was appealingly light and crispy. The skate (stingray in the Asian context) was extremely fresh, moist and flaked effortlessly. Its light flavour was very nicely enhanced by the gremolata topping (chopped parsley and garlic with olive oil and lemon zest, almost like a vinaigrette). A very satisfying dish with a successful combination of various subtle flavours.

Main course: sauté of John Dory with crushed butternut squash, beurre noisette and pickled walnuts, with a side of garden salad.

The portion was quite underwhelming - the smallest main I've ever had in this restaurant, about the same size as the starter to be honest! But it was really good while it lasted - the fresh fish fillets, sautéed in brown butter, retained their moisture, a nice meaty texture and all their fresh flavours in addition to a slightly charred and crispy skin. The brown butter residue was then deglazed to make a sauce that was extremely rich and savoury. The accompanying butternut squash was sweet, fibrous and appealingly chunky with bits of chanterelle mushroom and chestnut (I think) scattered throughout. A topping of trompettes de la mort gave an earthy dimension to the dish. The accompanying salad (just fresh leaves, no dressing) was a good balance, with notably spicy and nutty flavours from the rocket.

Dessert: blood orange tart with chocolate ice cream.

This was truly excellent. The combination of chocolate and orange is classic and needs no further elaboration, but there is something to be said about the exceptional quality of individual components here. The ice-cream was incredibly smooth and heady, with intense cocoa flavours, and topped with chocolate biscuit crumbs that provided a nice crunchy texture. The blood orange tart was bursting with citrusy goodness and felt extremely light - just like a good crème brûlée, with a wobbly custard-like filling, and a thin burnt glazing on top which was very evenly done. The execution of this dish was simple, yet wonderfully precise.

Overall, it was a pleasant way to spend a Saturday afternoon. The portions felt significantly smaller this time, but for this quality, the set lunch price is still a pretty good deal I think!