First good meal of the year - where else but back to The Square! Actually, this had been completely unplanned, but I had some free time today and the lunch menu for the week looked pretty appealing, so I tried getting a table at the last minute and did!
First amuse-bouche: apple and beetroot jelly, with diced fresh beetroot, smoked eel and horseradish foam, topped with chopped toasted almonds.
A refreshing start to the meal, with the subtle sweetness of the beetroot complementing and balancing the savoury, creamy and slightly piquant foam. The almonds effectively enhanced the aromas of the dish and provided an appealing crunch.
Second amuse-bouche: sauté of Scottish langoustine tail with lardo di colonnata, barbecued pork rib with grapefuit and pak choi (Chinese cabbage).
The manager Cesar informed me that this was actually work-in-progress: a newly designed dish soon to appear on the menu, and that they were getting regulars' feedback and suggestions on possible refinements for it. It was a very solid dish with which I could immediately identify, being of Chinese origin - the sweet roasting juices (honey and soy) and pork rib reminded me of a very well-done char siew, completely fatless yet still remaining fork-tender. The langoustine was also very well done, retaining a firm crunch and natural sweetness, and draped over with a lovely velvety film of lardo di colonnata - simply divine when taken together. The whole dish was almost too much of a good thing, thankfully balanced by the astringent grapefruit! If I were to be very picky, I thought that the hint of vinegar in the roasting juices was slightly overpowering (I do dislike the smell of vinegar) and when I told this to Cesar he revealed that the chefs had actually been discussing how much of it to use that morning - so I hope they consider my feedback!
Starter: Salmon and squid ink raviolo on a bed of leeks and bouillabaisse dressing, with a generous sprinkling of red mullet roe.
This was luxurious and immediately eye-catching. The thin and firm layer of pasta concealed a most substantial filling of fresh salmon. The bed on which the raviolo sat was extremely sweet, rich and bursting with flavours of the sea. The dried and salted roe subtly enhanced the savouriness of the whole dish. Excellent throughout.
Main course: fillet of black bream with a risotto of chanterelles (mushrooms) and langoustine claws.
The fish, as usual, was excellent - a large chunk, very fresh and pan-fried with the skin on to give a wonderfully crispy top, whilst the flesh at the bottom remained tender and juicy. The texture of the risotto was excellent - firm and well-defined grains, with a generous scattering of mushroom and langoustine. I did feel, however, that the risotto was rather salty and cheesy on the whole, and threatened to overwhelm the natural flavours of the seafood. For smaller appetites, this dish would most definitely have been too rich. Another minus point: I found a large piece of cartilage (from the langoustine claw) in my risotto - not the first time I've had unwanted bits! (Read my first review of this restaurant when I had the tasting menu.) Personally, I'm not overly fussed about this as long as the food is good, but the kitchen really needs to be more careful with such details, for the sake of its own reputation.
Dessert: blueberry jelly with diced pineapple, mint and variations on coconut - fresh coconut cream, coconut ice-cream, coconut shavings (in the glass) and macaroons with shredded coconut (on the side).
Special mention goes to the accompanying macaroons, which were not even listed as part of the dish, but which I felt were the most outstanding - light, fluffy, served oven-fresh and with the unmistakable fragrance of coconut. As for the contents of the glass, the scoop of ice-cream and the pool of cream surrounding it were extremely rich, velvety, and intense in flavour, balanced appropriately by the tart layer of jelly at the bottom. A very satisfying end to the meal.
The usual petit fours (nougat and chocolate) came after this, but I was so full I had to ask for a takeaway! (The portions are really generous; I'd already chosen what I thought would be the lighter options.)
P.S. I realised after paying for the meal that I had been charged for only 2 courses instead of 3 (i.e. the dessert was on the house) - most likely to compensate for the unwelcome extra in my risotto. Good service recovery - it would've been a difference of only £5, but it's the thought that counts!
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